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Hello, we just bought Gorenje EC2000P2 Pininfarina oven, I connected the special cable myself. When it is plugged in, it greets us with "Gorenje". The heating pad responds to "buttons", but doesn't seem to heat up. Oven and it's display don't work at all, even power "button" . What are we doing wrong? Or is it the oven itself?

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 537 Answers

SOURCE: Convection/Conventional in same unit SC302ZS

f the oven doesn't heat and the on-off light works, test the appliance controls, motor,
and heating element .










Posted on Nov 15, 2007

  • 213 Answers

SOURCE: GE JRS04BOW3BB Will not turn on.

turn the broil on high by itself wait a couple min. and see if it comes on. if it does the your bake element needs to be replaced or you may just have a burned wire where the bake element plugs in. just remember to turn the breaker off to the oven before trying to pull out the element

Posted on Nov 25, 2007

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: bottom oven of dacor double oven

I found the lower circuit breaker had been tripped. That didn't fix the problem but upon further inspection whoever had worked on the unit years ago had dropped a screwdriver that had lodged between the oven wall and the rear casing and shorted out the lower heating element. I removed the screwdriver and oven works fine now. I don't think that will solve the cmmclow problem but maybee the curcuit breaker is tripped.

Posted on Mar 12, 2008

  • 492 Answers

SOURCE: My GE Oven heating element and timer clock went

Try unplugging the oven and let sit for 10 min. This will reset the curcuit board and reboot the electronics. You may have to pull out the stove o get to the cord.

Posted on Apr 30, 2009

  • 65 Answers

SOURCE: All the lights, display, etc. work on the oven but no heat

First and foremost check the breaker box. Ovens use 240 volts which is a double breaker in the box. Just to be safe I would click both breakers off and then back on together. If this doesnt work turn off the power and have someone help you pull the oven out and check your plug or connection. You may be dealing with a broken wire in the junction box due to the power outage. If you have a volt meter turn the power on SAFETLY and test if your getting 240 volts. If the connections are good (including the one from the juction box to the stove itself) and you are getting proper votage, unfortunatley you are going to have to get a new control. What happens is with only 120 volts going to the oven everything runs but your elements (they utilize the 240 volts to heat). You can tell time or use the timer but without your full 240 your turkey aint gonna cook. There is 120 volts coming coming from each of those breakers you checked in the garage. Bottom line is the chances of both elements going out at the same time are slim to none and I feel you are probably dealing with a broken wire.

Posted on Jan 23, 2010

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If your oven has the control panel in the door, try this...

Open the top door and in the bottom right you'll find a flat cable that goes from the top door into the unit. It'll be just at the hinge.

Pull up on that cable and push it up into the top door. It will likely move just a little. Whilst holding that cable up into the top door look at the control panel and see if it begins behaving normally.

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It is poor design for a sliding card / cable configuration. The fix is to come up with a way of holding the cable into the plug. Since one or more connectors in the cable lose connection, some of the controls will be OK and others won't.

If you can "fix" the problem by wiggling that cable then you can have a repairman come out and rig something to hold the cable into the plug.

I took my double oven apart and used duct tape and it lasted a year. I used velcro and it seemed to work better. If it fails again I'm going to cut a couple of cable ties and glue them to the cable and plug to create a semi-permanent connection.

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You will need to press and hold the clear or stop button for at least 3 seconds, if it is locked due to a cleaning function you will have to wait for it to cool down until it allows you to open it. You could do a hard reset and flip your circuit breaker for your kitchen off and then back on a moment later and try again.

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A "hard wired" oven means the 10 gauge (3 conductor with ground) cable from the main service panel (breaker box) is connected directly to terminals on the oven. A "plug in" oven means there is a wall outlet into which plugs a cable connected to the oven terminals. The plug on the cable would be very similar if not identical to the plug on the cable used on a clothes dryer.

Charlie

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Hello,
F3 is the error code for control panel failure. A replacement costs~$200. In reading the literature, some people have had temporary success by depowering the unit, removing the ribbon cable to the control board, and cleaning the connections with a pencil eraser. This has bought some people several months of time, some none.... Once ordered, the part usually arrives in several days, and swapping it out isn't hard, once you get to the card.
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Hi
You need o call Gorenge and they will send it if they have it.

0845 050 8555 UK

please leave feedback

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1 Answer

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Yes, it is o/k to have a single oven connected to a 13 amp power supply supplied with a 2.5mm cable.
A lot of single ovens already come with a 13 amp plug fitted, so you can plug it straight into a 13 amp socket.
If there is no covenient socket nearby, then you can wire the 2.5mm cable srtaight into the oven terminal block.
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Plz rate my solution.
Thanks.

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I have a Kleenmaid TO400 in Australia and it's the same as the Gorenje B3350E. Thankfully I have the manual as this would be impossible to guess

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