Question about Dryers
If your dryer still heats, but your clothes take longer than usual to dry, you may want to check the dryer interior cabinet and/or the entire run of the exhaust ducting from where it exits your dryer to the point where it leaves your home to ensure you have no kinks, clogs, or excessive bends. The following link explains many of the common problems that can cause poor drying efficiency and longer dry times:
Before assuming you have a problem with the appliance, check your installation to ensure you are providing the dryer with proper exhaust and air flow. This is the NUMBER ONE cause of poor drying efficiency. A dryer that is clogged, or has restricted air flow, will not dry efficiently and will cause the heating circuits to OVERHEAT. This will eventually will lead to component failures and is the source of many fire hazards. I know you have checked for lint, but have youi checked the ENTIRE exhaust run and the cabinet interior? Exhaust ducting that runs to the attic is usually the worst configuration, because the air has to be forced up. The blower fan will meet more resistance and any lint that does not exhaust completely, ends up stuck in the vent. Water appearing in the drum is a sure sign that you have a clog somewhere causing condensation to develop. As far as the age of the appliance, the date of manufacture is determined by the SERIAL NUMBER, not the model number. The following link explains: http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576437-determining_the_age_of_your_whirlpool_ap The second digit in the serial number determines the YEAR it was produced. The next two numbers following that digit, represent the week in the year (52 weeks in a year) it was produced. FYI: There are no adjustments that can be made to any of the internal thermostats or heating element to make it run at a higher temperature. All these components have a fixed setting. If the dryer still produces heat, this is generally a sign that the heating element IS working. If the dryer is clogged, however, the internal protection devices, such as the Hi-Limit Thermostat and Internal Bias Thermostat will shut the heating element off prematurely to prevent the dryer from overheating, and to prevent damage to the heating element. Eventually, the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) or Thermal Fuse will trip and the dryer will not run.or produce heat. If you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.
Posted on Apr 04, 2011
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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