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We just moved the washer now the door does not seem to be seating tight and water leaks around it. What can be done

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You've probably twisted the outer shell of the machine a bit. First, inspect the door hinge and latch for any sign of displacement or bending, and fix as necessary. If you still have leakage or can't see a problem with the door itself, dry the door gasket thoroughly, then whiten it with chalk wherever the door is supposed to contact it. Close the door, then open it and inspect the chalk pattern to identify which way the machine is twisted. (Wipe off the chalk before your next wash cycle.)

Loosen the trim plate screws on the bottom front; if there is a service access panel there, remove it. Loosen the screws holding the bottom of the shell to the base plate, then push the shell in the direction needed to obtain a seal centered on the door gasket. Tighten the screws. If necessary, open the top of the machine so you can loosen the screws and repeat the adjustment. (Usually the front of the top is fastened with a couple of spring clips and can be tilted up like a range top or the hood on a car. Undo the screws that hold the control panel and the back panel, then carefully pry up the top from the front seam using a flat screwdriver wrapped in tape. If it doesn't move with moderate force ask questions about your specific model before you tear up sheet metal).

Posted on Apr 04, 2011

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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The plastic connector at the solenoid valve broke causing machine to leak water.


The connection needs an o-ring and a washer in order to be water tight. I hope you still have the old ones from the plastic version.

The pressure seal is at the tubing/o-ring/inside-wall of the connector, not the tube-end/bottom. The washer's job is to compress the o-ring a little so it presses against the connector's inside wall and the tubing's outside wall. There's a ferrule inside the tubing to give the tubing crushing-resistance.
A tiny daub of food-safe grease around the o-ring (say, vaseline) will help ensure water-tightness and help with reassembly.

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http://www.forumappliances.com/breville-silicone-washer-for-800esxl-special-order/

As far as the clip being loose, it shouldn't fall out easily. The looseness is due to the missing parts.

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I have an American Standard Colony? bathtub faucet set that has been leaking at the spout. I thought the reason for the leak was the seats and rubber washers needed to be replaced. After doing so I still...


Check these items:

1. If you installed new faucet seats, did you add a little pipe joint compound to the threads before installing them?

2. Make sure the shower diverter is in the off position and you're not seeing water leaking from the spout that could be coming from the shower pipe or residual water from the shower head.

3. Make sure you have the correct faucet washers - some or tapered and some are flat and must fit the stem counter bore correctly and that the counter bore isn't damaged or the stem shaft isn't bent. Make sure the waskers are the correct hardness.

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Water leaking in front of washer mainly from what seems to be the gasket around front of washer.


Either the rubber boot is damaged in some way, or the door is not locking tight enough. Thoroughly inspect the boot for tears or gouges in the rubber surface. Small imperfections can be repaired with silicon glue, but larger tears will require replacement of the boot--which can be done done through the door opening, but requires patience to do so. Inspect the door lock for damage or wear if the boot looks to be in good condition.

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1 Answer

Water leaks past the seal


In most dishwashers is does not matter, what I am saying is the door does not seal to the unit like you think it would, there is not tight seal like on a refrigerator, in most cases the bottom lip of the door just closes over a lip on the tub of the washer. So for people that add to much detergent or the wrong kind can get suds coming out of the bottom. There is a float valve that stops the washer from overflowing(overfilling)
in the bottom, kind of looks like a mushroom, check around this to make sure nothing stuck around it or under it. It should be able to move up and down freely. Any questions please post back,everyone is happy to help.

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get a thin rubber ring of the same diameter of the door and fix it around tightly then the water wont leak out

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Leak


It sounds like you have a leak somewhere around the door bellow. This is the rubber boot that seals the wash tub to the door frame. Pull the folds back and inspect around the entire perimeter of the rubber. You could have a small rip or tear somewhere. There are a series of small holes in the bottom of the bellow that are supposed to be there. This is the allow any standing water to drain back into the wash tub. If you cannot find any obvious signs of leaks, remove the lower panel under the door. This is accomplished by removing the screws under the bottom edge of the panel. With the screws removed, the panel will drop down, then off. Start the washer on a normal wash and watch for any leaks. If the door bellow leaks, the front counterweight (usually a concrete block) will begin to get wet and drip. This could also be an indication of the bellow clamp around the wash tub being loose. If the leak starts to pool under the washer and run out the front, this is usually an indication of a drain pump leak or drain line leak. Please inspect the washer with the panel removed and the washer on a load and post back and let me know. Go to my profile and use the "Ask Me" feature for a quicker response. I hope this helps you.

PS One other item. On the left hand side of the door bellow is the a dispenser tube that penetrates through the bellow and allows water to enter the wash tub. Sometimes the dispenser tube is not seated all the way into the rubber (should be seated past the flange) and it will dispense water behind the rubber instead of into the wash tub. Just something else to consider...

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Bosch WFCM 3200 Front load washer leaking from bottom of machine


I would try pulling the machine away from the wall and taking the back panel off. Get yourself a torch and then settle down on the floor while the machine runs a short cycle and wait to find out for certain where the water is coming from and at what stage of the cycle the leak happens.

Safety notes: Turn the power off while removing or refitting the back panel. Keep your hands away from wires and terminals when the power is on, and keep your hands and hair well away from the drive belt while the machine is on!

Once you know where the water is coming from and when, it'll be a lot easier to know what to do about it.

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Since you weren't very specific where it leaks or when it started (like after a filter change) it could be tough to troubleshoot this leak.

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If it's leaking from the main body try removing the filter and reinstalling it making sure you have seated the filter properly and screwed on the cover correctly, and all the way. When it is tight the water outlet will be exactly at the bottom of the unit. Sometimes it's tricky getting it tight enough especially with wet hands.

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