Question about Rinnai Toyostove Direct Vent Heater: Toyostove Laser 73 Shipping
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: toyostove laser 73
My Laser 73 does the same thing at least once, and sometimes twice, a year. The EE6 code is what the onboard computer gives when it THINKS the flame has gone out. Now, it COULD be that all that is wrong is you are out of fuel, OR you have water in the fuel. But....the more likely scenerio, (and what has always gone wrong with mine) is a common problem in the flame pot:
There is a stainless steel baffle near the bottom of the flame pot. (about 2 inches off the bottem). This baffle is used to "form the flame", cause it to curl up around the inside edges of the pot, where the air intake holes are, to create a clean-burning, high-efficiency blue flame. Over time, this baffle becomes horribly warped and distorted from the intense heat. (an engineering design screwup, IMO) (but you'll never get them to admit it) This warping of the baffle, in turn, causes the flame itself to become uneven, and to also begin burning poorly, with soot deposits. One of the first hints this is happening is lots of YELLOW flame, instead of the usual blue. When this happens, the flame SENSOR becomes sooted and dirty, and no longer is able to sense the flame. It tells the computer to shut down, because it thinks there is no flame, hence the "EE6" code. This sensor is simply a stainless steel rod poking into the flame pot. It's on the front of the pot, two screw fastening, and has a single wire attached to it, which runs to the computer. It is used to detect IONS (minute current) running from the flame front to the pot itself. (ground) And....(as if all this is not enough), the gaskets around the middle section of the flame pot, and at the top, usually develop cracks and leaks.
Cleaning the sensor (with steel wool) usually isn't enough to fix this problem. You will likely have to replace both of the fire-pot gaskets, the flame pot baffle, and also the burner "mat". (a round, flat, fiberglass mat glued to the bottem of the flame pot. Vacuum out all the dirt and soot. The baffle "unscrews" with about a quarter-twist CCW. (lift upwards on it, while turning CCW) Use fire-proof sealer on the new gaskets. Plan on all day taking it apart, and back together again. (a time consuming job...no fun) Good luck!
Posted on Jan 26, 2008
SOURCE: EE2 code for toyo LASER 56
My business is Laser Heating Service in the North Pole/Fairbanks areas of Alaska. An EE2 error code is usually fuel related. What does your Toyo do before the EE2 code shows up? If you let me know the sequence of events, I can trouble shoot the problem for you. toyotech
Posted on Jan 28, 2008
SOURCE: Toyostove Laser 73 EE2
The firing sequence for a L73 is blink, blink, blink, on the green burner light, then it clicks up to the medium, amber or yellow light...that's when the pump kicks on. If you hear click, click, click, or thump, thump, thump, that means the pump is starving for fuel. The problem is from the carburaot/sump back to the fuel tank. You may have icing in your line or a line restriction, no fuel, plugged fuel filter or plugged sump screen. You can thaw your fuel line, until you have a free flow of fuel and then push the red restart button on top of the sump. Try to restart your Toyo.
If you follow the firing sequence and hear no click, click, click or thump , thump, thump and your Toyo goes off on EE2 then you can have a dirty flame sensor...the whilte wire running to a U shaped part that is the ground for the entire unit. You can take ythe ytwo phillips screws out, turn the part to the side and wiggle it out. Clean it qith a green scrubby or sandpaper and put it back in. Be sure it points stright down. Then take out the igniter which are the red wires. Put a long screw driver in there and rattle it around real good. You are trying to shake any carbon cxhains off the burner ring that can be "shorting" the flame sensor. You can also removee the 1/2 inch flare nut from the fuel nozzle...brass yellow colored metal part, and put a paper clip or wire down that about 3 inches. That will clear any blockage in front or inside it. Put everything back together, hit the red reset button on the sump and re-fire your Toyo. You might get it going in this manner. If not, you may need a tuneup because your Toyo is too sooted up to run correctly. Try these things and post back!
Posted on Nov 14, 2008
There are several possibilities. You said you have plenty of fuel, but is it getting to the fuel sump. If the pump makes a loud ticking or thumping sound, it is not getting fuel to it. You may need to vent your filter to remove an air bubble. The heater also has a strainer inside the fuel sump that may need to be cleaned. Refer to the owner's manual for instructions for that. The fuel sump also has a reset button that releases the fuel float that may need to be pressed. The fuel nozzle sometimes gets clogged with carbon. You can remove the fuel line and insert a piece of wire (stiff wire) into the nozzle about 1-2 inches to remove it. Another problem may be a dirty flame sensor. You can clean it with steelwool. Since you say it lit I wouldn't suspect the igniter is bad. Also remove the top from the fuel sump clean the sump if necessary.
Posted on Sep 22, 2010
Check for flame / ignition... if no flame, check igniter: after unit is turned on, the igniter should get hot - CAREFULLY feel the area where igniter is mounted to burner. If it's not hot, your igniter is bad, needs replacement.
If you have ignition, the flame rod (sensor) may be defective or need cleaning.
This document might help...
Posted on Apr 20, 2011
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