I have a brita faucet filter. And the selector knob is getting harder to turn. If it gets any worse I will need to use a wrench. I wanted to try to lube up the movement if I can open up the casing. How would I do that?

H:H 80 on a Miele microwave indicates that the microwave's Keep Warm feature is in use. To end the cycle, open the microwave door or operate a selector or sensor (press a button (not the time display) or turn the selector knob). The keep warm setting runs the microwave for 15 minutes at 80W power starting 2 minutes after any program that used more the 450W of power. You can turn off the Keep Warm feature completely in the microwave settings. To change the setting, touch the menu button (arrow and three horizontal lines). Press OK and turn the selector knob until you see P9. Press OK and then turn the selector knob to change the setting. Press OK to save.

I found this in the manual for one of the Miele microwaves, http://static.appliancesconnection.com/attachments/D1418829486.pdf . on page 30. The section on changing the settings starts on page 40.

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

Hi Jean,

These mesh discs and the part they go into - along with a few other small parts - make up what is called "an aerator".




Most aerators simply screw on threads at the end of your faucet. You can remove it by twisting it. You may need a wrench to loosen it first. Wrap the aerator in thick cloth / towel so that the wrench does not dent or scrape the finish on the aerator body.



Some aerators thread up and inside the faucet - rather than at the end - and need a special wrench to remove



Once removed, you should reassemble the parts and reinstall on the faucet. You may find replacement aerators in Home Depot, Lowe's, etc. if you're missing parts, etc. If changing it out, be sure to bring the old one with you to match.

I hope this helps & good luck!

Thanks for the info about the lifetime warranty, who knew? The two parts mentioned are flow control valves that get inserted at the base of the sprayhead, not the in the hose. The green one says "water care" which will restrict flow more than the white one. It's an either or scenario, not both. There is a VERY faint arrow that points up toward the top of the nozzle. Push it all the way up and reconnect the hose tightly. That's it. My replacement didn't come with a wrench, did that come with the original faucet?

One more thing, if you bought a house that has this and don't qualify for the lifetime warranty, don't get stuck paying $100-$150 for this part if you just need to replace the aerator. The gray head that the water comes out twists out with a wrench revealing the aerator. The part number is 13929 or sometimes referred as 1392900, $10-15, if you can find it.

The faucet is secured by a nut from underneath, and it's hard to reach because of the sink basin. You need a special tool called a basin wrench to get up to the nut and tighten it. This picture shows one in use:



The faucet you have has only one threaded piece and nut, but it's the same principle.You can find basin wrenches at the big-box home improvement places and most hardware stores, or you may be able to borrow one from someone who does plumbing repairs. They aren't expensive if you decide to buy one.

If you can't work the shutoffs on the water lines under the sink, your only choice is to contact your condo maintenance people. They need to have some way to shut the water off to your unit when they make repairs. They can tell you if there are some more valves in another area that you can access, or they may have a maintenance closet somewhere and can turn the water off for you so you can make the repair.

Sometimes you can turn a sticky valve by using a large set of channel-lock pliers or similar type on the knob so you can get leverage. They look like this if you're not familiar with the type:



If it's been a while since the valves have been used, they often don't want to move without help. Once free, they may work fine, but sometimes it's a good idea to replace the shutoff valves as part of the new faucet installation. They're not expensive and you'll know they will work if you need to shut them off in the future. Get "ball-valve stops" which make a positive shutoff. Stops that use a rubber washer can sometimes let water trickle through (or more than trickle!) when shut off. Depending on the kind of valves currently installed and the type of pipes supplying your water, you might want the condo maintenance people to do the replacement. But if 1/2-inch copper pipe is what you have and there's a couple of inches between where the pipe comes through the cabinet back or bottom and the current valves, you can just cut them off with a tubing cutter. Then you can replace them with valves that just slide over the pipe and are fastened by tightening down a compression fitting (tightening a nut, in other words).

You should also plan to use new supply lines from the shutoffs to the faucet. Again, they're cheap and the old ones can sometimes leak when you try reconnecting them. Corrosion and mineral build-up from hard water can lead to poor sealing. The current ones may also be clogged with minerals, and new ones will give your new faucet full flow.

Once you've got that problem of turning off the water supply solved, it's usually not too difficult to change the faucet. Make sure you have a basin wrench on hand; on many faucets it's impossible to reach the supply connections with any other kind. The box from the new faucet may tell you if can get away without one.

Good luck with the project, and thanks for using Fixya!

You took off the faucet, but did you take the aerator off the spout? That's a very common trouble, especially if you have hard water with lots of minerals. The aerator screen gets clogged and your water slows to a trickle or is stopped entirely.

The aerator just screws onto or into the faucet, but you might need a wrench to remove it if it hasn't been off in a while. Tape the jaws of the wrench to keep from damaging the chrome unless you plan to replace the aerator. Once it's off the faucet you can take the aerator apart, noting the order of the pieces, and clean off the screen. Reassemble it and put the aerator back on and you should have your water back.

You might also just want to replace the thing; you can find replacements at hardware stores and home improvement places. Just take the old one along to make sure you're getting the right replacement.

You don't say anything about what kind of faucet you have, so this may not apply. But if yours is the kind with handles you turn to control the water, you probably have worn-out compression washers. In this kind of faucet, water is shut off by pressing a rubber washer on the end of a threaded stem against an opening in the faucet body. When you turn the handle, you move the washer away from its seat and the water can flow. Over time the washer gets worn and no longer seals off the water. Also, the valve seat the washer presses against can wear and allow water to sneak past the seal. The result is that annoying drip or a steady trickle.

This site, among many others, shows how to change a washer and fix most drippy faucets. If you search for "repair a leaky faucet" you'll find lots of sites to pick from, including many with videos. If you faucet is not a compression type, a single-lever cartridge for instance, there are links to other repair procedures.

If your faucet is old and the parts very badly corroded and worn, you might want to fix the leak by replacing the entire stem as a unit. You can find replacement stems for most brands of faucet at big-box home improvement stores and at many hardware store. It's a little more expensive, but often much easier to unscrew the old one and pop in the new than to start trying to get the old washer off the stem.

A last tip: Whenever you do any work on a faucet, remove the aerator from the spout and run the water to help clear the line. If you just turn the water back on and run the faucet, debris that was kicked up during the repair can clog the aerator screen. Then you're left wondering why you get only a weak trickle or no water at all after you fixed the trouble.

Take off the aerator from the spout (it just screws on, and should not be so tight you need a wrench) and then run the water. You'll probably find the aerator screen is clogged with debris and you can wash it off. This often happens when you turn the water supply off to connect the new faucet. After you clean off the aerator and screw it back into place your new faucet should work fine.

To operate the slicer in Automatic mode . . . Rotate the Speed Selector Knob to the desired speed; make sure the Carriage is in HOME position (all the way forward); make sure the Lever is on the Manual position (pointing down); turn the slicer on; start the carriage drive unit by rotating the Lever to the Automatic position (up and to the right). Either of the two speed selections can be used to begin Automatic mode. The speed can be adjusted at any time by rotating the Speed Selector Knob. To stop the drive unit, rotate the Lever down and to the left - to the Manual position. ------------ If you slicer is set on proper automatic mode and still not running on automatic mode then the problem relates to internal motor or the selector knob. But try reset before this. Push the reset button underneath the slicer near the right-front foot if the carriage motor overloads. The reset helps in some problems.But if its not helping then internal connections of selector knob has to be checked.Of the same with motor,the connections of motor to the selector for automatic mode has to be checked.---------------- This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.'

Hello ediben11.

If your oven's bake or the broiler heating elements won't heat but the range burners still work;the clock may be set for a timed or self-cleaning cycle. So,make sure to check the clock buttons and the knobs are set properly.
*If your clock has a knob that says "push for manual" then push the knob in after that, try the baking and broiling elements again.

*If it still does not work properly, you may have a defect in the thermostat/selector switch/common wiring.

*If the oven does not have a separate bake or broil selector switch; then the thermostat is probably the problem. It is not easy to check the selector switch or thermostat for proper operation. If you suspect a problem in this area, call a qualified appliance repair technician.

Hope this helps.