Question about Maytag Dryers

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Maytag Neptune MDG4000BWW gas dryer won't get hot. I tested and confirmed continuity at the coils, hi-limit thermostat, the cycling thermostat, the ultra-care thermostat, radiant sensor, the temp switch, the igniter and the timer motor. I tested voltage at 125 at the temp sensor and the timer motor. The thermostats read 0.7v, meter set to ACV200. I assume these are low voltage circuits? The reading at the igniter was 18.2v. The igniter does not glow. I hear the click when the start button is pressed, so it sounds like the coils are doing their job. What is wrong?

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All repairs on home appliances should be serviced by a professional and experienced technician. unplug the dryer and first check for continuity thru the thermal fuse gy50 and gy51 this is common if it is open replace it. if not check for 125vac at bk54 and rd55. if 125vac is present check wh24 and rd23 for 125vac. if 125vac is present then it's the igniter. if not you have a weak primary or secondary coil. if one of the coils are open or weak change both. check for continuity at the glow igniter. if it is open replace it. refer to you wiring diagram.

Posted on Apr 24, 2017

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SOURCE: Kenmore Dryer only lights gas sporaticly

replace the igniter. The ignitor is the most comon problem with gas appliances checking continuity does not tell you if it is bad or not it has to draw a certain amount of amps to open the gas safty valve and the is no safe way to check this on most gas dryers

Posted on Jan 19, 2009

hunter19_46m
  • 7482 Answers

SOURCE: remove front from maytag neptune gas dryer model #

Hi pcsankeny...
You will remove the gas dryer front the same as you will remove a electric dryer front.
Follow the directions below
******************************************************************************************************
Note: This method works for most front loading machines.
If you have to check/replace/repair your drum motor,drum seals,belt,rollers, etc.
If replacing drum seals be sure to use a good grade of weather proof cement to hold the seal/s in place, some seals are furnished with the cement to glue it in place.
Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch,start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer if necessary. Be real careful not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch or other electrical connections.
Remove the lint filter and the two screws that hold the filter housing to the top of the dryer lid.
Then remove the top of the dryer by inserting a screwdriver between the top and frame on each side of the dryer to pop the lid up from the retaining clips.
Note: Some of the tops tilt backwards on a type of hinge and do not have to be removed completly.
Remove the front of the machine by disconnecting the door switch and removing the two screws located on either side of the dryer frame.
Move the door and front of machine forward to remove.
This will expose the belt,idler bracket and drum, remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm bracket with pulley, and motor with pulley. Pay attention to the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt and drum.
Sometimes the belt will slip off of the idler arm or motor causing the drum not to turn.
Note:The way the belt goes back on is, as the belt comes off the drum has to be doubled (pushed together to form a loop) and goes under the idler pulley then to the motor pulley.
Here is a link to see a picture of your belt routing in case the belt is broken when you open your dryer:
http://www.expertappliance.com/dryerbeltconfiguration.html

While you have the drum out, I would recommend that you remove and lubricate the drum rollers.
And also clean the shafts of the rollers as they will collect hair,dust,etc and cause problems and then lubricate the shafts and rollers with a good grade of machine oil like 3 in One oil or a vasoline type of lubricant. This will save you a problem later with the rollers getting dry and making a squeeling noise, also check your drum rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them this will cause a thumping type noise.
You will need to replace the drum rollers if they have flat spots on them.
Please take time to rate me thumbs up

Posted on Sep 21, 2011

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1 Answer

Non Glowing Igniter


What solenoids are you referring to?

When you set the timer and heat selector switches on your dryer and press the button [switch] to turn it on, the direction of 120VAC passes through the heat selector switch through the timer switch through the cycling thermostat through the hi-limit switch, through the thermal cut-off fuse to the burner assembly's gas valve.

Simultaneously, as the current is traveling through a path to the 1st gas valve coil, current is also traveling through a path to the flame sensor- and then to the igniter.

The igniter will begin to glow and when it gets hot enough, the flame sensor will detect the heat and switch off. which then diverts current to the second gas valve coils.

The second gas valve coils activate plungers in the gas valve which allows gas to flow out into the burner housing. The igniter still being hot, ignites the gas to a long blue flame.

To maintain the proper air temperature, the heat in the blower housing is monitored by the cycling thermostat. During normal operation, air temperature should be between 120 degrees Fahrenheit and 160 degrees Fahrenheit.

When the air reaches the proper temperature specific to your dryer model, the cycling thermostat will switch off the voltage to the burner assembly.

The hi-limit thermostat and thermal cut-off fuse monitor the drum air temperature. If there is an air flow problem [restriction or total blockage], the hi-limit thermostat may switch off the voltage to prevent damage to the dryer.

Eventually, if the air flow problem [restriction or total blockage] is not corrected, the thermal cut-off fuse will fail (blow) and the dryer won't heat at all.

Check continuity to the following components, thermal cut-off fuse, hi-limit thermostat, igniter, flame sensor, and cycling thermostat. Of course you will take your readings with the power cord of the dryer unplugged from the wall outlet.

You will either disconnect [isolate] any of the wire leads going to their respective components during the test [using a multimeter (analog or digital)]; OR remove each of the components entirely from the dryer to test them.

1.) A good thermal cut-off fuse will have 0 Ohms of resistance. On the other hand, if the needle [on a an analog tester] does not move OR the digital display [on a digital meter] has not changed significantly, there is NO continuity - which means the fuse has burned out and needs to be replaced

2.) A dryer's Hi-Limit Thermostat is activated by hi-temperature changes (between 250 degrees Fahrenheit and 300 degrees Fahrenheit.

A good hi-limit thermostat will have 0 Ohms of resistance at room temperature.

To test the thermostat's response to temperature change, place the component on an electric griddle or skillet. Set the heat on the skillet or griddle to the appropriate temperature according to the temperature rating stamped on the hi-limit thermostat you are testing. If the hi-limit thermostat switches off within 5% of that temperature, the part is functioning properly. However, if the hi-limit thermostat does not switch off OR switches off prematurely, the hi-limit thermostat is faulty and will have to be replaced. [Remember, when the switch turns off at the appropriate temperature level- you should get a high resistance reading to show that the circuit is "open")

3.) Perform the same procedure as step 2 to test the Cycling Thermostat: First at room temperature and then its response to temperature change. The only difference is, the test temperature range will be somewhere between 120-160 degrees Fahrenheit Once again, refer to the temperature rating stamped on the component you are testing- and the 5% tolerance remains the same, too.

4.) The resistance reading for the igniter is between 50 and 400 Ohms of resistance; anything else, it's faulty- toss it and replace it.

5.) You should get a resistance reading of 0 Ohms at the flame sensor-

Flame sensors are tricky though. Flame sensors could still short out and
allow the igniter to glow- but would prevent voltage from reaching the gas coil. For example, the igniter will glow and not turn off and a flame will not be established because there was no voltage at the gas coil to open up and release gas for ignition.

Hope this info helps...I would appreciate a follow-up from you when you resolve this problem- to gain more knowledge and skill.

Thank-you and best wishes on your project

Jul 15, 2013 | Whirlpool LGR3624JQ Gas Dryer

1 Answer

No dryer heat


If the coils are bad the unit will light with flame for 4 - 8 times then all of a sudden the ignitor will glow, kick off with no gas coming threw valve. it sounds like the high limit thermostat is short cycling the flame. This is the thermostat that sits on top of the burner chamber. remove 1 screw from the thermostat and blend it upwards away from the heat. Then plug unit back in and test to see if the flame stays on longer. Click here to see maytag dryer no heat posts. Contact me anytime here. Hope this helps..

May 20, 2013 | Maytag Neptune MDG6700A Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Have a kenmore model # 110.72822101, where's the thermostat located, my dryer gets hot then cold


The cycling thermostat or the high-limit thermostat may not be the problem but rather the gas valve solenoid coils sitting on top of the gas valve assembly. Disconnect power then verify this condition by bypassing the thermostats. Refer to the image below and locate the thermostats.
jahn27_15.jpg
Note: This is an image of an electric dryer but the thermostat and the thermal cut-off (cut-out) locations are the same.

Disconnect each of the thermostat wires then connect and insulate them properly. Once done, reconnect power and start the dryer. The gas valve solenoid coils are indeed faulty and both need to be replaced if the problem still persists. Click here for the procedure in replacing the solenoid coils.

Gas Valve Solenoid Coils Replacement Procedure

Either or both of the cycling thermostat and the high-limit thermostat are malfunctioning if the dryer continues to heat up with the thermostats bypassed. Disconnect power then reconnect the cycling thermostat wires but keeping the high-limit thermostat bypassed. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The high-limit thermostat is the culprit if the dryer continues to heat up. If not, then the cycling thermostat is the culprit.

Also do the other way; that is reconnecting the high-limit thermostat wires but keeping the cycling thermostat bypassed. The cycling thermostat is the culprit if the dryer continues to heat up. If not, then the high-limit thermostat is the culprit.

Replace the faulty thermostat and it should solve the problem.

Nov 08, 2010 | Kenmore 72822Gas Dryer

2 Answers

MaytaG MODEL # MDG4000BWW. Rumbles and sweels as


check the rollers,the pulley and if it shakes as bad as it sounds the blower wheel is probably damaged

Jul 31, 2010 | Maytag Neptune MDG5500AW Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Gas dryer dosn't heat properly


The problem is the dryer coils are failing. They tend to fail as they heat up. They are inexpensive and easy to replace. Here is a link that should help http://appliancehelponline.com/gdryertroublevideo.html

Jul 07, 2010 | Maytag MDG3600BW Gas Dryer

1 Answer

I have a maytag dryer, model # MDG4000BWW. It has...


check the high limit/cycling switch thermostat located on the heat housing ,you will need to remove the front panel to access this,then, bypass the high-limit with a jumper wire and see if the flame stays on longer,if this doesn't help, then check the radiant senser on the tube also they get dirty,you can clean the senser eye or bypass this also and see if its weak,if not then replace the 2 gas coil valves on the gas valve body as these will get weak and shut off the gas supply

May 20, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

My gas maytag dryer has no heat


first check the thermal fuse for continuity in the dryer blower housing/vent,then check the high-limit and/or cycling thermostats and the radiant sensor(flame eye) on the burner tube of the unit,then check the ignitor in the burner tube housing and finally the boost and secondary gas valve solenoid coils on the gas valve body inside the unit near the front entry of burner tube

Apr 29, 2010 | Maytag Neptune MDG5500AW Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Maytag won't dry on any cycle


if you have gone that far you have it fixed
since you diagnosed that there was flame you can fix this really easily
unplug the unit
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=47083&diagram_id=678789#d678789

look for the two parts 7 and 8

those are going bad and will need to be replaced

hope this helps

Oct 21, 2009 | Maytag Neptune MDG5500AW Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Maytag MDG5500 - heat goes off after several minutes


Q - My gas dryer will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a gas dryer from heating:
- glow bar igniter, thermal fuse ( not all models ), coils on the gas valve, gas valve, thermostats,motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, sensor.
A page for checking gas dryers is here.

Mar 07, 2009 | Maytag Neptune MDG5500AW Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Maytag Neptune MDG300aww Gas Dryer Heats On and Off


hI YES THE COILS IS WHAT YOU HAVE TO CHANGE thANKS FOR THE QUESTION tHE APPLIANCS DOC

Sep 12, 2008 | Dryers

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