Question about Mitsubishi WS-65809 65" Rear Projection Television

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We had our Mitisubishi WS 65909 repaired yesterday. The green blinking light would not go off. Replaced caps and it works fine. Old lingering problem: I cannot have the TV Speakers and the Denon Receiver Surround Sound on at the same time. The on/off portion of the menu screen on the TV is gray in that area and will not accept a command. Is it possible to use surround sound and the tv speakers at the same time?

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  • snowtrack Apr 05, 2011

    Thank you for the information Joe.
    I was unable to respond to you yesterday. I already have the manual that you attached and I am unable to determine how to turn off the Denon Receiver using the program installed on the TV. On page 55 of the manual it shows on the right side of Figure 1 the on and off controls for the TV Speakers. On our TV screen, this area is gray and unusable no matter which name I place in the left changeable box.
    I have tried switching to the Net Command Guide to attempt the second solution, also with no success.

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Normally you can use the TV speakers along with the rear audio outputs going to a separate amplifier at the same time. The rear outputs should be active whether the internal speakers are on or off. However, make sure the tv volume is turned up sufficiently when you test the sound coming from the stereo system, since the output signal level of the TV's rear audio jacks may be tied to the TV volume while the internal speakers are ON.

Here is a link to the User's Manual for your unit:

To view the Owner's Manual with Operating Instructions just use your mouse to click on the link, which is the underlined and highlighted text just above. This will open a new web browser page automatically for you and allow you to view the information at the website indicated and the contents of the Owner's Manual.

You may need ADOBE READER installed on your computer to read PDF documents. You can download this free at WWW.ADOBE.COM if necessary. Click on the DOWNLOAD ADOBE READER button on right side of the ADOBE home page when you get there, and then just follow the onscreen instructions to install it.

See page 55 of the ONLINE USER'S MANUAL for detailed instructions on how to select the internal speaker mode.

Please comment back here to this page if you have any questions, have difficulty accessing the links, or just require further general assistance and I will respond as soon as I see it.

Thank you very much and good luck.


Posted on Apr 03, 2011

  • Joe2
    Joe2 Apr 03, 2011

    Also make sure your TV's SURROUND EFFECT is turned OFF if possible.

  • Joe2
    Joe2 Apr 05, 2011

    Sorry, I'm not sure why the speaker mode option would be greyed out like that.

    Unless it has to do with those round SETTINGS buttons just to the left of it labelled AUDIO and VIDEO. Maybe you have to select the audio button somehow in order to alter the speaker mode.

    Once again, sorry about that, if you leave the question up maybe someone else will have a more definitive idea that can help you figure it out.

    Good luck.



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Ws-65909 power light goes out after 3 seconds no sound or picture

Thats the code which normally indicates a convergence failure you can get the WS55909 - WS65909 Convergence repair kit which also has instructions from its listed under the Mitsubishi repair kits catagory.

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I have a mitsubishi ws-65909. We had a power outage last night. The timer light is blinking green with no response to any buttons being pushed. I have unplugged and let set for 10 min. with no results

I am a proud owner of the same TV you have. A couple of months ago, we had repeated, intentional rolling power outages in the Dallas area in an ice storm. I had the blinking green light of death also. The problem is in your DM module. If you remove the back panel on the set and expose the boards, the DM is the one farthest to the left. It is actually located inside a metal frame that surrounds it. You can disconnect the wiring harnesses coming out of it to the other boards. You may have to label the harnesses, but typically they are labeled so you can simply match the numbers of the harness removed to the receptacle into which it was originally plugged. There should be about 5 of these to remove. I recommend using needle-nose pliers, as they can be very hard to unplug. Just don't squeeze too hard and crack the plastic.
Once you have disconnected and removed the DM board assembly, you will need to remove the metal housing and disconnect another series of wiring terminals in order to fully expose the power boards within. Make sure you keep track of which screws go where, as some may be longer than others. Phone pics of wiring harnesses can come in handy so you remember where they go. After the metal housing is removed, you will see an elevated, smaller board attached to the much larger main board. The small PC board needs to be separated and removed so you can hold it in your hands and work on it. At this point, you have the option to take the board to an electronics repair shop or to fix the problem yourself (as I did) and save yourself some money. A decent repair shop should remove and replace the defective components for about $20, PARTS INCLUDED!. There are 7 capacitors that need to be replaced. They cost less than 50 cents apiece at an electronics parts supply shop. You may find them at RadioShack, but I recommend an electronics supply shop. This way you can buy capacitors that have a higher voltage rating than those originally installed. A higher voltage rating is recommended and will in no way affect performance or outcome. In fact, the original caps (capacitors) were rated too low in terms of both voltage and temperature. I believe the original caps were 1000 uf (microfarad), 16-volt caps which are black in color - indicating they are 85 degree compliant. Look for 1000 uf (microfarad) capacitors with a brown color that indicates they are better for high-temp applications of up to 105 degrees. You will be able to clearly see on the cap that it is 1000 uf, 25 v, 105 degrees C. One very important thing to note is that a defective cap isn't always obvious and will NOT always display symptoms of a bad cap. Typically a bad cap will have an outward bulge on the top, like a soda can about to explode. It may also show signs of dark, caramel or black colored syrup-like liquid oozing out of it. This should be considered, but definitely not ignored. When I fixed my set, ALL of the seven replaced caps actually looked like they were brand new and showed NO typical signs of fatigue or failure. I replaced all seven anyhow, put it all back together, and brought it back to life and saved myself many hundreds of dollars. The primary point I wish to relay is that you do not rely on the apparent physical appearance of the caps to decide their state. I hope this helps any and all with the symptoms related to the constant blinking green light which responds to nothing on the Mitsubishi WS -65909. You CAN save your TV by spending less than $75 by doing it yourself (less than $15 if you have a soldering iron and solder) or take it to a ****** who won't do component-level repairs and will just replace the whole DM board for 700 bucks or so. I know these sets are old and rapidly being replaced by LED, Plasma, and LCD sets, but you can't beat the pic for the price. If I get enough requests, I will figure out how to post a video how to to do the whole thing. I hope this helps. This will fix the constant blinking green light with no power-up on the Mitsubishi WS-65909 rear-projection TV!

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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