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No spark voltage at coil goes from 13 vdc to 1 vdc as points open and close

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Thats how a coil works, have you repleced coil?

Posted on May 20, 2011

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

Points are sticking in closed position when motor is running


then your engine should not be runnnnnnnnning. points open and close when open coil charges gets ready to fire
when closed electric from coil goes to spark plug. if this cycle keeps going then engine keeps running..

May 14, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

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What could be the cause of no spark on my uno mia 1.1 99 or 00 model


Have you replaced the spark plugs and checked the leads,have you got enough fuel?

Aug 01, 2014 | Fiat UNO Cars & Trucks

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Won't start !! converted to 12v ,new starter and solenoid installed along with new coil,points,roto cap now no spark to plugs


Cranks? Check voltage to + side of coil,first. 10 V. OK.
Be sure that points open and close.SEE it as it cranks.
Points gap should be around .016 "
If you open and close the points,key on,engine off,the coil should SPARK!
Use a screwdriver to get a shock. Fun.
Sorry.
The coil will spark when you short the points,when they are open.

Mar 17, 2013 | Ford 8N Tractor

1 Answer

Ford f350 w/ 351w no start. Has spark and fuel but you can hear the relays clicking and the coil hums.


You don't say what year the truck is, but it could be a faulty EEC relay. You would need to trace the coil voltage circuit to find out why you don't have full battery voltage with the key on.

Jan 10, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I m not getting any spark when i turn it over


Are you running the original. points and condenser ignition? It should be wired like this; hot wire from the key switch to the coils positive side; Negative side to the points/condenser hook up. points need to be adjusted at 18 - 20 on high side of the point cam. Points contacts need to be clean and corrosion free, no oil or grease on them, (you can run sand paper in between them). Put a GOOD business card in between the contacts pull back and forth a few times, use the card to adjust the points with; you want to feel for a slight tug, Check for voltage on the points/condenser hook up when the points are open, you should have 12 - 13 vDC there. No voltage when they touch, If the coils are good and the points are adjusted right you will have spark after the points touch and break. If all this is right and you do not get a spark your coil(s) are bad one or the other, be sure they are wired up right.. Hope this helps and Give a vote if it does. Thanks.

Mar 02, 2011 | 1985 kawasaki ZL 900 A1 Eliminator

1 Answer

My 72 sportster is getting power to the coil but no power to the terminal leading to the points. Any advice?


Well, power only comes in from one side of the coil and if the points are closed, your meter will not read voltage on the other side. Make sure the points are open when checking for voltage.

To check the coil's primary circuit. Take all wires loose from the small terminals at either end of the coil. Using a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter), put the meter in OHMS, R times 1 scale. Connect one meter lead to each terminal of the coil, make no difference which one goes where. The meter should read between 5 and 6 ohms of resistance. If it reads "Infinite" the coil is open and if it read "Zero" the coil's primary circuit is shorted.

The easy way to test the coil is put a spark plug in the plug wire and lay it on the head. Make sure it has a good ground. Turn the engine over until the points are closed. Turn on the ignition switch and use something to open the point. Each time you open the points, you should see a spark at the plug. If not, you've probably got a bad coil.

Good Luck
steve

Aug 06, 2010 | 1979 Harley Davidson XLH 1000 Sportster

1 Answer

No spark to the plugs or the coil


Troubleshooting No Spark Your new engine won't start or your old engine suddenly quit and won't run. You're pretty sure there is no spark but how do you determine what the exact cause is? Definitely do a test for spark at the plugs. Remove one of the plug wires from a plug and hold it near grounded metal. (If the plug end has a long insulated shroud, you may have to improvise to get ground close enough to the end of the wire.) Have someone crank the engine while you watch for spark. If you get an 1/8" or so of spark, that should be enough to fire. If you don't have a helper, you can do it this way: Pull the hi-tension lead out of the distributor cap and hold near ground.
With ignition On, turn the engine pulley CW past the TDC mark. You should get some kind of spark, although if you turn slowly the spark may be weak.Check the distributor cap inside for signs of cracks or carbon arc tracks.
Also, check to see that the little carbon contact for the center terminal is in place; without that you can have spark but it won't get to any plug wires!It's rare, but a rotor with an internal short or carbon tracks on the surface can kill the spark before it even gets to the cap.

Quick review: The coil is a big transformer with a magnetic core. Current from the battery goes into the primary winding on Terminal #15. That same current goes out Terminal #1 and through the point contacts. This current creates a magnetic field in the core of the coil.When the points open, the magnetic field in the coil core collapses, creating a high voltage in the seconday winding, which is fed to the center Hi-tension terminal. The condensor across the points helps to control arcing at the points, which would soon destroy them, and also makes the spark a higher voltage by creating a resonant (ringing) circuit with the coil winding. All we really need to know is that without the condensor, the spark would be pretty weak.
Troubleshooting: You can find out quite a lot about the coil circuit with very basic tools. A voltmeter is helpful (I prefer the older analog meter with a needle over the digital ones because changes in readings are more easily seen.)If you don't have a meter handy, a simple test lamp will do just as well. If your car is 12 volt, use a 12 volt bulb; if 6 volt, use a 6 volt bulb. Put some wires on the bulb, maybe with alligator clips, and you're in business.Connect the tester (meter or bulb) from ground (engine case) to Terminal #15 on the coil. Never mind what the actual markings on the coil say; connect to the terminal which has the thick Black wire from the main harness on it. I say never mind the markings on the coil because someone may have swapped wires around which could lead you astray.The tester should show 12 volts (or 6v). If it doesn't, there is no power from the Ignition Switch. Track that down (bad switch?).Double check that there is power at Terminal #15 while cranking the engine with the key. This is important because sometimes power will be lost while cranking due to a contact failure inside the ignition switch.OK, you have power going to the coil. Now, hook the tester from ground to Terminal #1 on the coil (where the Green wire from the points connects).Leave the Hi-tension lead out of the cap. With ignition On, turn the pulley by hand (or have someone crank the engine). The tester should go On and Off twice each revolution. If it does that, you should get spark.If the tester stays ON while cranking, the points are not closing. Watch them while turning the pulley to see if they appear to close. If they do, there may be a surface film on the points or the points are eroded and pitted. Replace the points. I strongly recommend using Bosch points as many of the off-brand points give very poor life. In a pinch, you might lightly file the points. When replacing points, be sure to put a tiny amount of grease on the cam lobes or else the fiber rubbing block will rapidly wear and change the point gap. One other rare cause of an "open points" condition is failure of the tiny braided pigtail lead which grounds the advance plate. If the pigtail is broken, the advance plate may only be intermittently grounded. This will cause loss of spark as the advance plate moves or maybe no spark at any time. (There is no pigtail on distributors which have no vacuum advance.)If the tester stays OFF while cranking, there are 3 possibilities:
Points shorted (stuck closed).
Condenser shorted.
Coil open.Take the Green points wire off the coil terminal. If the tester now goes ON , either the points or the condenser is shorted. Replace both.If removing the Green wire still did not turn the tester ON , the coil may be open.
Double check that there is still power to Terminal #1 on the coil. Also look to make sure that there are not any other wires connected to Terminal #1.
(Sometimes, someone will mistakenly connect the Backup light wire to Terminal #1; this will cause no spark when in Reverse!)
Replace the coil if the above test shows the coil open.



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This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya

Feb 28, 2010 | 1989 Mercedes-Benz 190

1 Answer

I am hookin up the pots stright up to the coil


If your bike has points in it, your are correct. There is usually a black wire that goes from the points directly to the coil. When the points open, this breaks the circuit and the current through the coil stops. This, in conjunction with the action of the condensor, collapses the magnetic field in the coil's primary circuit wiring. The collapsing magnetic causes and induced high voltage low amperage current in the coils secondary circuit. This the high voltage that produces the spark at the spark plug.

Nov 25, 2009 | 1982 Yamaha XJ 650

1 Answer

1937 Zephyer ( ford v-8 flathead)


1. points not opening or closing
2. Bad condenser
3 bad rotor or cap
4. Bad coil
5. Not likely but could be just a bad wire from the switch to the coil.

First you need to know if you have voltage to the coil -- if yes- go to 6.
if no -- go to 7 ..

6. Put a piece of thick paper between the points contacts, then check for voltage at the points from the coil . If there is voltage at the points ,, check the gap with the points wiper set on the high side of the lobe on the cam in the distributor . A gap of .015-.018 is most common on that engine.
7. If no voltage then back track to the ignition switch ,, fuse box , then battery

I put a plug wire in the coil output to the distributor and a plug in the other end -- lay plug on block and crank engine .. If there is spark at the plug , your in the ball game . If the spark is orange change capacitor if blue spark good to go . you might want to clean and gap your plugs before you reinstall them .

Aug 16, 2009 | 1991 Plymouth Colt

1 Answer

Wiring harness 1974 sportster???


I am assuming your bike is stock, or close to it. In 1974, all h-d's used a battery coil ignition with wasted spark. Battery positive flows from the ignition switch to the coil, through the coil primary winding to the points, then open or shorted to negative (through the chassis) depending on the points being open or closed. When the engine is turning over, this is what happens: The small cam that operates the points has the points in the closed position, so battery current is flowing through the coil primary, through the closed points to negative. This causes the primary winding inside the coil to set up a magnetic field. When the cam starts to open the points, the current tries to bridge the gap. If we let this happen, the big arc between the point surfaces would burn up in a hurry, and the plugs would not fire for the following reason: The ignition coil is a transformer. It has a primary and secondary winding.The secondary winding has many more turns of wire than the primary. When the secondary winding "cuts" magnetic lines of force a larger voltage is induced in the secondary. In the case on your sporty, we are boosting 12 volts to over 10,000 volts. This depends on 2 things: The number of lines of force and the speed they are cut. So, when the points just start to open, the condenser absorbes the current until the points are open enough to prevent arcing. Then the current flow through the primary winding stops. The magnetic field quickly collapses, cutting through the secondary windings that are connected to the spark plugs. The resulting high voltage (pressure) Jumps the gap on both plugs and lights the fire. One of the cylinders is on the exhaust stroke so that spark is wasted. So: ignition on : 12v at coil positive. With points closed, 0 volts at coil negative. If you read voltage here, the points are dirty or open or the wire from the coil to the points is open. Points open: 12 volts at coil negative. To check for spark, you don't have to crank the engine. Just manually opening the points should fire the plugs. After you get the plugs firing, post again and I will tell you how to razor tune this thing. It should start instantly with a perfect idle. Hope this is clear.

Oct 14, 2008 | Harley Davidson Harley-Davidson Motorcycle...

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