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Just installed Honeywell RTD7500d thermostat to replace Batstat239 (which seemed to have faulty temperature gauge - it would keep pumping both hot and cold past the set point indefinitely). I followed the wiring guidelines and I am pretty sure I have it right: Trane ----- Honeywell B-----C G-----G Y-----Y O-----O/B __----RC (jumpered to R) R-----R W----Aux X2----E __----L Tan ---- Wire Capped off not used. The Honeywell seems to be controlling only the auxiliary heat, not the heat pump. (ie. the Heat Pump is not running outside when the heat is "on"), so the airhandler is pushing "cool" NOT "cold" air, until the Aux Heat kicks on. From what I have read on-line this could be a fuse, compressor, or other issue with the heat pump, so I am trying to trouble shoot. I have looked for fuses (people have said they look like car fuses) that may have been blown, but not found such an item - although I may not be looking in the right place as the manual I have is rather vague. The outdoor unit is a Trane Weathertron XE 1200 which has a junction box with a large plastic/copper plug that has four prongs - it clearly is marked "no fuse". I have an American Standard Air Handler Model #TWV030B140A1 - which I have read may have some fuse that controls the Heat Pump, but I am not sure where to look. Right now I am looking to find the fuses to check them.... and guidance on finding them would be much appreciated? If that doesn't solve the problem, could someone suggest a next item to check as I troubleshoot?

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Wiring seems right, but it needs to be wired like the original tstat. Meaning if W was connected to w1 on the old, that's were it goes on the new. If it was on aux heat then your wiring seems correct. If its operating the aux heat "on its own", then that's were your issue is at.(?) Also, there is a configuration menu in the new tstat. It needs to be set up for your system, heat pump, 1 cool, aux heat or 2 heat 1 cool, O should engage the reversing valve(RV=O). If you didn't write down or pic what you started with, it will be tough for you, and us, to wire your unit correctly. And there is no factory installed fuse on the outdoor. The indoor will(should) have a 3 or 5amp "blade" fuse, (car fuse but not the new smaller style, the 80's to 90's style). Its on the indoor circuit board. Hope this helps!

Posted on Feb 28, 2017

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louislevel_2
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SOURCE: Fan will not shut off, but compressor does

hi! there, continous fan motor when unit was shutt off,since supply source was already cut off specially on fan condenser motor,the supply of your motor was came from relay mounted on your circuit board control panel,there a holding coil to hold the connection between your fan and ac source,shut off breaker for ac unit first before diagnosing ac unit, try to check this out the relay is still activated giving ac source when shut off,the contactor on relay holding your ac supply was shorted,try to check the connection the circuit activating condenser fan relay,eliminate the short circuit,using multi tester test rod,use manual diagram for circuit control board to lessen complicated diagnosing,focus on fan relay ac source then isolate checking the short circuit replace defective relay,contact point of relay are not repairable.take necessary precaution on checking to avoid shock,this a hard task i would suggest that certified ac technician w/ full knowledge of instrumentation should do this.thank's for selecting fixya and have a nice day.

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SOURCE: need wiring for honeywell pro 3000 in trane xe1200

the pro 300 is a single stage thermostat and can not be wired to control 2 heat stages seperately

Posted on May 16, 2009

luker711
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SOURCE: I have a Ruud air-conditioner/heat pump and it blows 5 amp fuse.

It sounds like the thermostat wire going to the condenser is ground, It either got pulled loose and is touching the housing or as in most cases the wire got cut or was chewed by an animal. You need to turn electric off to both devices and physically inspect the thermostat wire going from the air handler to the outside unit, also inspect where they connect inside the unit. When you find the break, cut and strip each individual wire and securely wire nut each conducter red to red white to white and so on. There you go all fixed. That's when I give you the bill for $75...except this time you write that check to yourself. Good Luck

Posted on Jul 14, 2009

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SOURCE: Upgrade Baystat 239 to a Honeywell RTH7600D controller

For Trane sytems, B is your "Common" wire. O is your reversing valve relay, G is your fan, Y is your compressor contactor, R is Hot, Brown will not be used on your electronic tstat. X2 is your backup electric heaters. Without knowing what terminals are on your new tstat, I cannot offer more information than this. The installation manual may indicate what each terminal is controlling. I strongly suggest to write down ALL of the terminals and colors from your old t-stat and be sure to turn off the power to your air handler. Put the fan switch on your tstat to ON before turning off the power. Make sure the fan is running. Then turn the power off to your Air Handler. If your fan stops running, you have turned the power off to your tstat and are ready to start replacing it with your new tstat. I hope you find this helpful. Good Luck!!!

Posted on Feb 07, 2010

SOURCE: Replaced Bryant T-stat model TSTATBBNB001 with Honeywell t-stat

Hello,You forgot to wire the O terminal w1 witch is the reversing valve.It is important to check if old stat is using O or B in witch case B terminal=w1 leaving O unused.

Posted on Apr 21, 2010

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