Question about Sharp Microwave Ovens
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
For the smell, do a Google search for "smell microwave" or "odor microwave" for many great tips.
If you need a new turntable support, you can order Sharp parts from Tritronics at http://www.wehaveparts.com
It's part # FROLPB017MRK0
Posted on Nov 18, 2007
Generally, the most common causes of a failure to heat are:
- bad door switches or door switch mounts
- loose connection at the magnetron
- problem or loose conneciton on the control unit circuit board
- bad magnetron or other high voltage part
If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical safety information, info on door switch diagnosis and replacement, and
disassembly information at our site, linked here on Fixya: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
Posted on Nov 18, 2007
A microwave can be dead for many reasons.
The fuse is normally located on the floor of the chassis behind the control panel or between the door switches.
If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO) / thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.
If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open.
Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.
When checking thermostats, if it has a hood fan thermostat, that should read open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.
If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.
If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.
If it goes dead or blows the breaker when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.
If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.
You should do a continuity test on the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in, then test it again.
If you remove the fuse, then press the meter leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and make a bad fuse appear to be good.
If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
Posted on Jun 23, 2008
SOURCE: I NEED A MANUAL FOR
I was looking for a manual for the oven, finally found someone to talk to from Sharp Co.
He did not have a manual but had me try some of the buttons on the front of the oven.
Some, in fact most, of them do not work. It was the convection part of the oven that I wanted to use because I am alone and do not always want to heat the oven for just one small something.
I am afraid it has been stored too long and would cost more to have it fixed.
Thanks for the e-mail.
Posted on Aug 01, 2008
SOURCE: Door does not latch when
you gently push up on the door latches (hook-like devices on the door)
there should be spring tension. If they just flop right up, the internal spring
Normally the problem is not the spring, but a broken spring mounting tab on the door latch head (hook) assembly or the inner door panel.
If it's the door panel, it's usually easier and cheaper to use epoxy and some kind of hardware to fashion a new spring mount.
The door latch head (hook) is easy to replace or repair if that's the issue.
You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here but the best place to order Sharp parts is Tritronics.
Normally you have to separate the door panels (as shown in the attached photo) and then you'll see the screws you need to remove.
Or you can watch a YouTube video (not a video I made) here that demonstrates how it's done.
Posted on Nov 08, 2008
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