'06 F-150 2wd front rotor needs replaced, brake pad worn off got into rotor; otherside not damaged 7-lug rotor is integral hub/rotor. Can pick-up rotor and hub nut tomorrow 4/3/11. Info I grabbed shows 295 Ft/lbs torque req on hub nut. Will I be able to break loose with a cheater, I weigh 180lbs? Should I add grease to bearings? Will I have all necessary parts, A dust seal did'nt show up as req.etc.? Can I set 295 Ft/Lbs of torque, my full 180 lbs body weight standing on and pushing down at 19.7 inches out on wrench? (Don't have big enough torque wrench) Do I just want to put on pads and have shop replace?

1. Raise vehicle
2. Support on jack stand
3. Remove lug nuts
4. Remove wheel
5. Remove bolts holding caliper
6. Remove calipers
7. Remove brake pads
8. Push piston into caliper
9. Inspection rotor for damage if damaged replace
10. Install new pads
11a. Replace caliper on rotor
11 b. Replace bolts in caliper and tighten
12. Bleed brakes
13. Replace wheel
14. Replace lug nuts
15. Lower vehicle
16. Tighten lug nuts
17. Test drive vehicle

Tools Required:

Lug Removal Tool
Impact Gun(Recommended)
Sockets.. Lots of metric sockets
Ratchets
Wrenches
Porta Power(hydraulic piston) --- THIS IS REALLY IMPORTANT... use to press hub off..
LOTS OF PATIENCE


Instructions:

1) Jack vehicle and support on jack stands.

2) Remove front tire.

3) Remove Front Brake caliper.. hang on frame using a bungee or other support
Important to not stress hose.

4) Remove brake pad support.

5) Remove 4 bolts from rear of hub.

6) Undo bolt for ABS sensorfrom frame, undo all clips holding wire.
Crawl under truckand unclip wire connector(trace wire from the ABS sensorto find it)

7) Make sure wire is unclipped from the frame and will not bind on removal of hub. (Prevents Damage of ABS sensor)

TRICKY PART: Turn the wheels so that you can use the hydraulic porta-power against where the lower control arm mountsto the front. (Turn the
wheel left). Position porta-power to be placed inside dimple of the middle of the hub. DO NOT DAMAGE ABS SENSOR...
Pump Porta-power until hub "Pops".. be extremely careful removing the hub not to damage the ABS wireat all.. It is easy to break and not notice (I did
this and had to resplice it)

9) Hub should be removed from vehicle by this point and you can remove the six bolts holding the old rotor on. Still be careful not to damage the sensor.

10) Change the rotor. (do not use impact gun to reattach.. may strip threads)

11) Installation is basically reverse of removal.

12) Install brake pads, press caliper back in (typical brake job)

13) Put tire back on.. do other side.. and you're done.


Porta Poweris this.... http://www.southern-tool.com/store/porta_power_kit.html

Most likely causes:
Front wheel hubs need replaced (do both at one time)
Front rotors warped or worn (change rotors and pads both wheels together)

The noise from the brakes dragging or the wheel bearings humming gets picked up by the abs sensors in the hubs before you can hear them. A few hundred miles later, the problem will get worse enough to hear while driving. Wheel hub replacement best done on a lift with an enormous impact wrench.

Park the Lincoln Town Car on a flat, level paved or concrete surface. Apply the parking brake. Press the trunk release button.

2 Place a wheel chock behind one of the rear wheels. Open the trunk and turn off the air ride button, located on the left side near the trunk hinge on the sidewall.

3 Break the lug nuts loose with the breaking bar and socket on the left front tire. Just crack them loose.

4 Lift the left front quarter of the Lincoln Town Car with the floor jack, and place a jack stand under the frame just behind the left front tire.

5 Remove the lug nuts and wheel from the left front tire.

6 Remove the caliper bolts using a ratchet and socket.

7 Pry off the caliper with the straight-edged screwdriver and secure it to the coil spring with the bungee cord.

8 Remove the pads from the caliper anchor. Pry them out with the screwdriver if you need to, but note how they are placed in the anchor so you can replace them in the exact same manner when it comes time to.

9 Remove the caliper anchor bolts. You may have to break them loose with the breaking bar and socket, but switch over to the ratchet once they're broken free to speed things up.

10 Remove the rotor. Look on the hub facing of the rotor. There may be some retainer washers that hold the rotor secure to the hub; if so, you'll need to pry them forward with the screwdriver and pull them off with channel locks or pliers. The only purpose of these retainer washers is to hold the rotor secure to the hub while reinstalling the caliper anchor and caliper. Do not worry if you ruin these or if they're not even on the rotor. You don't really need them. If the rotor does not move after you've removed the retaining washers, you may need to shock it from the hub. Do so by striking the rotor fin with a hammer with force to break it free from the rust to the hub. You may have to hit it several times; try hitting from behind more than in front, but be careful not to inflict damage to the fender or injure yourself.

11 Sand down the facing and edges of the hub with a light-grade sandpaper. Take some time and clean the hub from rust and corrosion as well as you can.

12 Spray the new rotor with brake clean spray very thoroughly. New rotors have an oil-based coating on them to prevent them from rusting due to condensation in the air. This oil coating must be cleaned off or it will create braking problems in the future. Be liberal with the brake clean on both sides of the rotor, and wipe it dry with a shop rag.

13 Replace the caliper anchor and pads. Tighten the caliper anchor bolts tightly with the ratchet and switch to the breaking bar to get another half turn out of them.

14 Squeeze the piston of the caliper in with the C-clamp all the way. Replace it over the anchor, pads and rotor. Replace and tighten the caliper bolts.

15 Replace the tire and lug nuts. Tighten the lug nuts as tight as you can get them with the ratchet and socket, then lower the Town Car and use the adjustable torque wrench set at 100 foot-pounds, but tighten the lug nuts in an alternate pattern. In other words, tighten each lug nut in the opposite position from the one tightened first until all the lug nuts are tightened to 100 foot-pounds.

16 Repeat the process for the right side.

17 Pump the food pedal when you're done to restore hydraulic pressure to the caliper pistons. Failure to perform this task can result in hazardous and dangerous results. Four or five pumps or until the brake pedal feels normal should suffice. Release the hood latch and trunk latch again if you closed it before. Check and adjust the brake fluid level in the master cylinder, and turn the air ride button back to the on position in the trunk. Remove the wheel chock.

18 Release the parking brake and test-drive.

Could be a number of problems. Here are a few.

Defective Brake Pads

Brake pads that are defective and/or incorrectly installed can, over time, cause brake rotors to warp and become damaged. Brake pads are responsible for squeezing against the spinning brake rotor, an action that causes a vehicle to slow down or stop. If the brake pads are bent, misshapen in any way, or aligned and/or installed abnormally, they can exert abnormal pressure on the brake rotors, a condition that can cause brake rotor warpage over time.

Abnormal Brake Caliper Action

An abnormal or malfunctioning brake caliper can result in brake rotor warpage if the degree of brake caliper dysfunction is severe enough. A brake caliper houses a set of vehicle brake pads and provides the squeezing force necessary to squeeze the brake pads against the spinning brake rotor. If a brake caliper applies too much pressure to the brake pads, or if it applies pressure inconsistently, it can cause a brake rotor to warp over time. Adequate brake caliper action is necessary for optimizing brake pad and brake rotor function.

Excessive Heat

A vehicle's braking system generates a tremendous amount of friction-related heat, heat that normally gets radiated away from the brake pads and brake rotor mechanisms. However, in cases where excessive heat is generated within a braking system and not dispersed adequately, serious brake malfunctions can occur, which can include brake rotor warpage. A stuck brake caliper, old, worn-down brake pads, or a defective brake rotor can cause excessive heat to develop in or around a brake rotor, which can cause brake rotor damage and warpage.

Damanged Wheel Hub Spindle

A brake rotor assembly is supported by and rides on a long, slender metal tube called a hub, or wheel hub assembly. The hub is what allows for the smooth, even circular motion of the spinning brake rotor. Designed with a smooth, low-friction exterior, the wheel hub assembly is critical to the proper spinning motion of the brake rotor. Any abnormalities or defects with the wheel hub assembly, including hub warpage, cracking or misalignment, can cause abnormal brake rotor rotation, which in turn can cause brake rotor warpage over time. Normally, a damaged wheel hub assembly is noticed and remedied prior to extensive brake rotor damage, as a severely damaged wheel hub assembly will cause a vehicle tire to wobble and shake.

need a torque wrench, 3/8" drive 1/2" drive sockets, large screwdriver, screw in front caliper compressor, jack, jack stands, fluid catcher (pale), wrench set, etc.

Hope this helps.

Check this two proedures for...

How to Replace Brake Pads
Parts:
1. Brake Pad Set

Tools:
1. C-Clamp
2. Flat Head Screwdriver
3. Jack Stand Set
4. 3/8 in. Drive Ratchet
5. Combination Wrench Set
6. Tire Iron
7. Socket Set
8. 1/4 in. Drive Torque Wrench
9. Dial Indicator

Supplies:
1. Brake Cleaner
2. Brake Lubricant

Steps:
Step 1 Secure your vehicle on a level surface, making sure your car will not roll or lean too much when jacked up.
o Tip: Safety Tip:Always wear safety glasses when working on your vehicle. Wear other personal protective equipment (PPE) when necessary, for example latex gloves or safety shoes.

Step 2 Remove the cap from the brake master cylinder. Using a turkey baster, remove a quarter of the brake fluid from the master cylinder. Lift up the front of your vehicle using a floor jack.
o Tip: Using an aftermarket floor jack, instead of the original equipment (OE) jack, can make the job easier and safer. Verify the condition of the floor jack before use.

Step 3 Secure the vehicle with jack stands on both sides for safety before starting any work. The pinch welds and the frame are the two best locations. Do not rely on the jack to hold the vehicle up while working.
o Tip: Try to find a flat, level, and strong surface to put the jack stands.

Step 4 Remove the front wheels by removing the lugs nuts that are holding them on. To do this you will need to find the correct size socket and large ratchet or tire iron and turn them counter clockwise. If your vehicle is equipped with hub caps (plastic covers over the wheels), these will need to be removed to access the lug nuts.
o Tip: It is a good idea to try and break the lug nuts free before you jack the wheels off the ground. This way they you will not spin the front wheels or put stress on the transaxle.
o Tip: Lug nuts fasten the wheel to the hub and may be on very tight. To gain more leverage, use a breaker bar to loosen the nuts.

Step 5 Inspect the brake rotors for scoring, grooves, cracks and discoloration.

Step 6 Remove the brake caliper mounting bolts.

Step 7 Slide the brake caliper off of the brake rotor.
o Tip: If the brake rotors are worn and there is a big lip preventing the brake caliper from sliding off easily, gently pry one pad back into the brake caliper to clear the lip and make removal easier.

Step 8 Support the brake caliper up and away from the working area. Make sure you do not kink or pinch any brake lines. Do not disconnect the brake line.
o Tip: Use a bungee cord to secure the brake caliper out of the way and hang it on the suspension spring.

Step 9 Remove the brake pads from brake caliper.

Step 10 Compress caliper piston using a C-clamp.

Step 11 Install the new brake pads in the brake caliper.

Step 12 Reinstall the brake caliper.

Step 13 Torque the brake caliper mounting bolts to manufacturer’s specifications. Repeat for other side.

Step 14 Install wheels and torque to manufacturer’s specifications.

Step 15 Refill the brake fluid in the brake master cylinder and reinstall the cap.

Step 16 Road test vehicle, break in new pads.

o Tip: To break in pads and rotors refer to manufacturers recommendations. Some companies have different procedures for pad and rotor break in.


continue...

Instructions Things You'll Need:

• Floor jack
• Jack stand(s)
• Wheel chock
• Turkey baster
• DOT 3 brake fluid
• Flathead screwdriver
• 1/2-inch drive breaking bar
• 1/2-inch drive socket set (up to 21 mm)
• 1/2-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive adjustable torque wrench (recommended)
• Impact screwdriver with Phillips head bit
• Hammer
• Bungee cord
• C-clamp
• Brake clean spray
• Shop rag(s)

How to Replace Front Rotors on a Mazda6
1. Step 1 Park the Mazda6 on a flat paved surface. Apply the parking brake and release the hood latch. Place a wheel chock behind one of the rear tires and open the hood. **** out half the fluid from the master cylinder reservoir using the turkey baster and discard. Replace the master cylinder cap securely.
   
2. Step 2 Break the lug nuts loose on the front tire, using the breaking bar and a 21-mm socket. Raise the left quarter panel first with the floor jack and place the jack stand under the left front frame rail. You can lift the right side too or just do one side at a time. Remove the lug nuts and the wheel when elevated.
   
3. Step 3 Pry the two plastic caliper slide bolt covers off with the flathead screwdriver and remove the caliper slide bolts with the ratchet and a socket. Pry the caliper off the pads and rotor with the screwdriver and support it to the coil spring with the bungee cord so it does not dangle by the brake hose. Compress the piston of the caliper inward using the C-clamp until the piston bottoms out in the caliper casing.
   
4. Step 4 Remove the pads from the caliper anchor by prying them out gently with the screwdriver. Be sure to memorize how they were positioned in the anchor so you can replace them the same way in the event you're not replacing the pads as well. Remove the caliper anchor bolts using the ratchet and a socket. They're going to be extremely tight, so be prepared. Remove the caliper anchor.
   
5. Step 5 Locate the retaining screw on the hub face of the rotor. Use the impact screwdriver in the reverse position with a Phillips head bit and strike the end of the screwdriver with the hammer. Remove the screw. Remove the rotor. If it is stubbornly stuck to the hub, strike it a few times with force on the plated fins of the rotor.
   
6. Step 6 Spray the new rotor with brake clean and be generous to clean off the oil coating that new rotors have on them so they will not rust from condensation in the air while they were in storage. Clean both sides and wipe dry with a shop rag. Place the new rotor on the hub and make sure to line up the retaining screw hole in the rotor to the hub. Replace and tighten the retaining screw.
   
7. Step 7 Replace the caliper anchor and bolts and tighten tightly. Replace the pads into the caliper anchor in the same manner you removed them. Replace the caliper over the pads and rotor and replace and tighten the caliper slide bolts. Replace the plastic covers.
   
8. Step 8 Replace the wheel and lug nuts and tighten the lug nuts so they are flush. Lower the Mazda6 and torque the lug nuts alternately with the torque wrench, set at 80 foot-pounds and the 21-mm socket. If you raised both sides of the front axle, wait until you've replaced the right side rotor, otherwise repeat Step 2 through Step 8 for the right side.
   
9. Step 9 Pump the foot brake pedal until it feels normal to restore the hydraulic pressure back to the compressed caliper pistons. Release the parking brake.
   
10. Step 10 Check and add new DOT 3 brake fluid to the master cylinder and replace the cap securely. Close the hood. Remove the wheel chock and test drive
    

jack up front, remover tire, remove bolts on backside of caliper, slide caliper off bracket, remove old pads (paying attention to how they fit in), remove cap on master cylinder under hood, use a caliper tool to push the piton back in, replace pads, put it all back together again....

good luck -- we are here if u need furhter help

here is procedure

Section 04-01: Suspension and Wheel Hubs, Front 1996 Taurus, Sable Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Wheel Hub Bolt Removal

1. Raise vehicle on hoist.
   

1. Remove wheel and tire assembly. Refer to Section 04-04 .
   

1. Remove disc brake caliper (2B120), and front disc brake rotor (1125). Refer to Section 06-03 .
   

Brake Shoe and Lining Removal

1. Remove brake master cylinder filler cap (2162). Check fluid level in brake master cylinder reservoir (2K478). Remove brake fluid until brake master cylinder reservoir is half full. Discard removed fluid.
   

1. Raise vehicle on hoist. Refer to Section 00-02 .
   

1. Remove wheel and tire assembly from front disc brake rotor mounting face. Use care to avoid damage or interference with disc brake caliper (2B120), front disc brake rotor shield (2K004) or front wheel knuckle (3K185).
   

1. Remove rear brake pin retainers (2N386). ( I think it is a T 40 torx bit you need)
   

1. NOTE: It is not necessary to disconnect hydraulic connections.
   
   Lift disc brake caliper from front disc brake caliper anchor plate (2B292) and front disc brake rotor (1125). Do not pry directly against metal caliper piston or damage will occur.
   

1. Position disc brake caliper out of the way and support with wire to avoid damaging the disc brake caliper and front brake hose (2078).
   

1. Remove outer brake shoe and lining (2001) assembly from front disc brake caliper anchor plate.
   

1. Remove inner brake shoe and lining assembly.
   

1. Position lug bolt (1107) to clear front wheel knuckle (3K185).
   

1. Remove lug bolt from wheel hub (1104).
   
   
   
   

Installation

1. Install lug bolt into wheel hub.
   

1. Using a lug nut (1012), seat wheel hub bolt into wheel hub.
   

1. Install front disc brake rotor and disc brake caliper. Refer to Section 06-03 .
   

1. Install wheel and tire assembly. Tighten lug nut to 115-142Nm (85-104 lb-ft).