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The oven and top right ring on my beko dc543 oven not working al other rings are?

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  • kennymac69 Jan 01, 2009

    I have the same problem, please help.


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Check that links on the mains connection block are tightened down

Posted on Aug 05, 2008

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Beko HII64403T induction hob, the left 2 rings packed in tonight, they went from 6 to E then turned off. the 2 right rings continued to work.

contact BEKO they will know why they did what they did and will know better what the fix will be . sounds like the 2 units might have burnt out due to not having the pots on them .

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I have a belling 335 and both the oven and rear left hob ring have stopped working. what is likely to be the problem?

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Sep 06, 2012 | Belling 335 Electric Kitchen Range

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I have a hot point stove with fuses.Ineed to know in what order and what size I need. I have no manual, so Ihope you can help me. Model no.KE638JW-1 Type 340. Serial no. LB136758. The fuses were removed...


I have the same (old) model : KE638JW-1 and type B40 (not 340)
Fuses are in the top and when you are in front, from your left to your right , this is the order :

30A 20A 20A 15A 30A 20A 20A

All fuses appears twice (may be one for each phase):

30 : OVEN
20 : LEFT (2) RING HEATER (may not be the right word)
15 : LIGHTS and 110V plug
30 : OVEN

If you are interested, I can take a photo of the instruction normally sticked in the header. Just write to me at : C O M S P A M@V I D E O T R O N.C A

and since it is an antispam address, be sure to put (copy) this in the subject :


ps : I know it may be to late, but I put the answer for anyone which come here.



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Beko dc543 oven and top left top right bottom right hobs not working bottom left hob is working and so is grill i have checked all terminal wires and all ok i had this problem before under...

I AM NOT AN ELECTRICIAN ! But i have had the same problem of the oven and the back right ring not working and have found the cause of this. For some reason there is a thermal fuse running inline on a live wire inside the cooker if you feel competent yourself in replacing this fuse you will save a good deal of money on call out fees, here is how to do it. SAFETY is the crucial, First of all isolate the power source to the cooker, pull out cooker so you can get access to the back of the cooker, remove the 9 screws ( i think there is 9) to remove the back plate from the cooker, this is quite heavy because there is a small block of concrete fastened to the bottom left hand side of the back plate, looking at the inside of the cooker on the right hand side you will see a white wire which has been secured via a small screwed clip, this wire has a transparent sleeve covering the thermal fuse, remove the sleeve by sliding it up or down the wire, check the fuse by with a meter just to be sure, if it is blown cut the fuse out. replace fuse the same way it was fitted. replace the sleeve and fit the back on the cooker SAFETY FIRST switch on power and try oven and back ring, mine works fine. like i said at the start i am not an electrician, but i can not understand why there is a thermal fuse running inline to the oven which is linked the back right hob. all the best folks Hobbo from Chess.

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