Question about Kenmore 24 in. 17482 / 17484 / 17489 Built-in Dishwasher

2 Answers

Kenmore Elite Dishwasher, Model 665.15979992 No Heat Dry Button/Light: The dishwasher will not work. Have tried to no avail the various alternatives listed in this thread and others. Here's what the dishwasher is doing: To start off, the red light on the "No Heat/Dry" button is on - sometimes it's on steady; other times it blinks depending on whether other buttons have been pushed. Pushing any other button also causes the "Lock On" red light to come on. Pushing the "Cancel" button causes all three lights to blink. Two days ago, I got the panel to reset using one of the methods on this page (Normal Wash/No Heat Dry, I think; while that didn't work right away, a few hours later I pushed Cancel - for the sake of doing something - and it worked)! When purchased, dishwasher was high end, stainless steel interior that I thought would last longer than its 10 years. Would appreciate any words of wisdom in order to wring a little more time out of the machine. If it's time to put it out of its misery, maybe the answer is a low end dishwasher for less money.

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  • kenneth_gove Apr 03, 2011

    For informational purposes, have tried recommendation previously to no avail. But, let me ask a few questions:

    1. How do I know when the self-diagnostic program is running? If all the lights are supposed to come on, that doesn't happen. As indicated originally, I can't seem to get beyond getting any lights to come on except the "No Heat Dry" (on constantly or blinking), "Lock On" when ANY other button is pressed, and "Cancel" when the that button is pressed.

    2. Is the "Heated Dry" button the same as "No Heat Dry" button (the latter has the lock symbol, too)? The "No Heat Dry" button is the one I've been pressing to alternate with "Normal Wash" button as there is no "Heated Dry" option on the control panel.

    Since we've had the dishwasher, as a matter of course, we've always run the hot water from the faucet prior to starting a load until it gets too hot to hold your hand under the running water.

    Additionally, have tried disconnecting the control panel from the control board and reconnecting it with no effect. Can't imagine how it would affect the dishwasher's operation, but noticed that one of the plastic "foots" that the access screw goes into on the control panel housing was snapped off and am unable to put the screw back because it has nothing to bite into. I mention this for information, but it doesn't appear that there's any interface by the screw or "foot" to any electrical component only to the plastic housing. It's one of 4 screws that hold the control panel housing to the front dishwasher door.

    Would appreciate any further words of wisdom.

    Thanks

  • kenneth_gove Apr 03, 2011

    The "Lock On" red light comes on.

  • kenneth_gove Apr 03, 2011

    thanks, we were out anyway - at a restaurant so we didn't have to do dishes :-)

  • kenneth_gove Apr 04, 2011

    thanks for your response, Rick. I'll check it later tonight and let you know how I make out.

  • kenneth_gove Apr 05, 2011

    regret that i have been out of the loop the past two days, but should be free tomorrow to give it a go. thanks for your patience.

  • kenneth_gove Apr 06, 2011

    thanks again for your patience. assuming i'm doing it right, i'm not getting continuity at part #22. That part has one wire that goes from the door handle and another that goes into a block of 4 wires that connect to the control panel. before i break something, does the fuse just pull out of the control panel and do you know if the part readily available at Sears or whether it have to be ordered?

  • kenneth_gove Apr 08, 2011

    Turns out Marcone has a location about 12 miles away, so I
    picked up the fuse yesterday. They sell
    it as a kit that includes 2 new wires.


    After disconnecting the old parts, installing the new parts,
    reconnecting everything and turning on the power, I regret that I am back to
    step 1.


    After turning on the power, the red light on the "No Heat
    Dry" button came on. In less than a
    minute the light started blinking. If I
    did nothing, the light would continue to blink.



    Interestingly, even after installing the new fuse, there is still
    no continuity. You mentioned checking the
    heat element as a next step. Would you
    point me in the right direction?


    Also, you mentioned you're located in New England. I grew up in Boston many years ago. The Red Sox could use a rainout.


    Looking forward to hearing from you


    Thanks again for your perseverance.

    Turns out Marcone has a location about 12 miles away, so I picked up the fuse yesterday. They sell it as a kit that includes 2 new wires.

    After disconnecting the old parts, installing the new parts, reconnecting everything and turning on the power, I regret that I am back to step 1.

    After turning on the power, the red light on the "No Heat Dry" button came on. In less than a minute the light started blinking. If I did nothing, the light would continue to blink.

    Interestingly, even after installing the new fuse, there is still no continuity. You mentioned checking the heat element as a next step. Would you point me in the right direction?

    Also, you mentioned you're located in New England. I grew up in Boston many years ago. The Red Sox could use a rainout.

    Looking forward to hearing from you

    Thanks again for your perseverance.

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Have you checked the thermal cutoff switch located inside the door by doing a continuity test to it if this is sounding like where your problem are is coming from on this diagram http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/partsdirect/showSubComp.pd?imageUrl=http%3a%2f%2fc.searspartsdirect.com%2flis_png%2fPLDM%2fP9100269-00003.png click this link part number 22 is a fuse that should be one of the first things for you to check as well as part number 24 which says it is just a harness but in this diagram does look more like a cutoff check these two areas of these are ok due to the the heat error you would then test the element in your unit if the unit doesnt heat the unit will not move forward into any cycle but check the fuse and the cutoff first and message me back with your finds and I will respond I await your reply Thanks Rick

Posted on Apr 04, 2011

  • 3 more comments 
  • Rick Ead
    Rick Ead Apr 04, 2011

    hello ken message me back when you have finished with your testing Thanks Rick

  • Rick Ead
    Rick Ead Apr 06, 2011

    No problem bud if you were in the New England area I'd come give ya a hand myself I await your reply Thanks Rick

  • Rick Ead
    Rick Ead Apr 06, 2011

    yes thats the thermal cutoff fuse but dont use sears try places like www.marcone.com under contact us there is a 1800 number sears i mainly use for there diagrams but when it comes to priceing they are utterly ridiculous and the highest priced of all appliance parts companys there is also another i have used in the past which was better priced then marcone its called allbrandsappliance between the two of these you should get a much better price then sears and yes the cutoff fuse just pulls outwards I await your reply if you have any further questions and please remember to rank how this opinion has helped when our chat has fully concluded it allows me to help others in similar situations Thanks Rick

  • Rick Ead
    Rick Ead Apr 08, 2011

    part number 1 in this diagram is the heater do a continuity test on the element if the water is not getting hot then the unit will stop and that light will flash like its doing heres the link http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdir... do your continuity test on the element and message me back with your finds I await your reply Thanks Rick

  • Rick Ead
    Rick Ead Apr 08, 2011

    ken one question i seen a post by you sayin it was the lock on light I for some reason thought that your light that was flashing was the heat light which light is flashing just need some clarification Thanks Rick

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  • Master
  • 1,140 Answers

Hello Kenneth,

You can clear the error code by running the self-diagnostic program.

With the dishwasher in standby mode (power on, but not running a cycle), press HEATED DRY, then NORMAL WASH, then HEATED DRY then NORMAL WASH again within 6 seconds.

This will start the self-diagnostic test. Once this has started, let it run for about 30 seconds, then press CANCEL to end the test. Finally, switch the power off and back on. This will clear the error code and hopefully return the dishwasher to normal operation.

If this clears the error, try running the hot water faucet in your kitchen (or closest to the water supply for the dishwasher) until the water runs hot. Then run a normal wash cycle to test the dishwasher. If the fault returns and/or persists after you've done the above, then it would indicate a component failure. The diagnostics test would then need to be run fully to determine the exact cause of the fault and where to look next. If the fault does not return after running the hot water faucet, try running the hot water faucet before every wash.

Hopefully, this simple trick will solve your problem. Please try the above, then post back with the results if you need further assistance. Please reply to me by clicking on "Add a Comment" below your question.

Thanks,
BElectric

Posted on Apr 03, 2011

  • DILLIGAF
    DILLIGAF Apr 03, 2011

    Thanks for getting back to me.



    What happens if you hold NO HEAT DRY for about 5 seconds?

  • DILLIGAF
    DILLIGAF Apr 03, 2011

    May apologies for the delay. My internet service has been off this afternoon and I've not been able to receive or post messages. I need to check a few things in relation to this model and I will get back to you shortly. Should be no more than an hour.


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follow the below instructions:

Unlock your Kenmore dishwasher control panel by pressing and holding the "Heated Dry" button for four seconds.

Press a series of four buttons in quick succession. Press "Heated Dry," "Normal Wash," "Heated Dry" and "Normal Wash" to instruct your Kenmore dishwasher to run a short diagnostic test

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