Question about Flotec TC2151 P2 Well Pump Pressure Switch

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My pump cuts on, runs with good pressure for approx. 3-5 seconds and then cuts off. After a 30 second delay it will cut on again and repeat over and over. System will not sustain pressure and there does not appear to be any leaks. Brand new 1/2 horse flow tech pump and pressure switch, but I am suspecting that it is faulty from the factory. I have not adjusted the springs as it was set 30 - 50 from the factory. My expansion tank pressure is 28 psi.

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Is there a non-return valve fitted on the pump system? Some pumps have these fitted into the housing . If there is not one fitted you may want to try that as it sounds like water could be flowing back down your system.
Otherwise it sounds like a switch problem. Take the casing off the switch and check that it's not full of ants. This is fairly common esecially in wet weather.
The switch settings and tank pressure sounds fine.

Posted on Apr 02, 2011


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Gas line is clog gas is not getting to throttle. Where do you begin in uncloging the fuel line.

95 rodeo. not the Diesel right>? gasoline engine, the diesel has a timed pump....
what engine? car has 2 or more as options... and fuel systems vary by ,(drum roll) engines.
my guess is this is your first EFI fueling system?

to test fuel rail pressure and its zero,
this must be done cranking, i bet you didnt know that 1/2 the cars
made, it must be cranked to get the pump to run..... right?
my second guess, is you dont own a $10 volt meter.
the engine has a ECU, this ECU sends 12vdc to the fuel pump using a Fuel pump relay.
does the relay close, cranking?
1/2 do just key on for 2 seconds.
while cranking. and running. so we use a voltmeter to see if that happens, not replace every part on car gue$$ing, wow are you rich?

The ECU/:PCM brain can cut fuel for 2 or more reasons
More facts:
the ecu cuts fuel cranking if the throttle is stuck wide open. (TPS sensor errors, do that....) (this is a FEATURE)

this is a "unflood feature in all EFI cars made" (modern say 1988 to now)"a feature stated in the operators guide, btw)

and if the ECU has an immobilizer OPTION, same thing, cuts fuel. (some cars cut fuel then spark)

the ECU also cuts fuel if the ECU even suspects spark is missing. (feature 3)
Does engine run on test fueL.
we do that first. the 3 second test fuel tests.
if that sounds good, we attach fueling next.
if it sounds bad, or engine is dead, we fix that next (timing belt slip?)
This feature prevents the crash and burn deal.. as seen on T.V... (ecu computer logic )
(and is by laws here... (called the Spark monitor inside the ECU...)

got 12vdc to the pump cranking, ?
at the pump 2 wires. not 6v, no 8v but at least 11vdc there... (it will be whatever battery volts are... cranking, (measure that too)

on cars that need to be cranked, to get pressure
you will ru not be able to hear the pumpn, with the Starter motor banging away.... so we use the volt meter and the fuel pressure gauge
to not get fooled... Dribble tests are ok, if no dribble cranking, but is in no way proof of good pressure.. if pump runs....
The injector dont work at 0 to 20PSI, sorry...

on some cars you get a prime pump action for 3 seconds, keyon.
but not all cars do that. so we just assume they dont and WIN. (Isuzu diffr, rules on diffr. engines.... sure are...)

got a meter? even a $10 walfart meter works..
end general rules and vast experiences...
now the FSM pages, of facts: (factory serv. man)
the 2.2L runs for "2 seconds key on",
this is the prime signal.
its best to repeat it 3 times to build pressure from a breached system. (gauge breached it)

quotes from FSM: 3.2L
Turn the ignition ON and listen for the pump to run (it should run for 2 seconds). If necessary, cycle the ignition OFF for 10 seconds and then ON again, in order to build maximum system pressure.
Note the fuel pressure with the pump RUNNING; it should be 41–47 psi (284–325 kPa). When the pump stops, pressure may vary slightly, then should hold steady.
now the other engine. 3.2L
it say it needs to be cranked or run to check
fuel pressure. in my book.

the fuel rail at the loop end has the fuel pressure test port. there. see it?
seen here,
41-46psi is running pressure,(or cranking)
and 35psi for the smaller gas engine.

the pressures matter, its not carb car its EFI.

do not be tempted by the dark side and hot wire
the fuel pump relay, if you do , most guys
burn to H3ll the ECU relay driver, ive repair so many ,its a crime.
they hot wire this relay socket slip for a second and boom, you just blew up a $400 ECU
pay me to fix that..... (nah , im retired, )

never hot wire, the EFI system.


May 30, 2015 | 1995 Isuzu Rodeo

1 Answer

Strange fuel pump issue on FXCW.

High pressure feed from the pump in the tank is rubber and the E20 fuel damages the rubber making it porous so pressure cannot build up to supply the injectors.

Feb 27, 2014 | Harley Davidson Motorcycles

1 Answer

I turn ignition to ready position. The fuel pump engages and prime's the line. I then start the engine. Engine starts and runs for a max of 15 seconds. As soon as the engine cuts out the fuel pump...

The crank sensor is a good candidate. Pretty common failure on jeeps.
To clarify, the fuel pump is on all time during engine cranking, and during engine running. When the engine cuts off, the pump will also be stopped. But, you will not lose pressure in the fuel lines and fuel rail immediately. The check valve in the pump is supposed to hold fuel pressure in the system for a good time-about 20 minutes. The pressure should bleed off very slowly.

Your fuel pump and fuel system is probably good, but if you really lose prime (or pressure) that quickly, then there is a problem. Best way to check is with a fuel pressure gauge after the engine cuts out. Or, if you have the test port schraeder valve on the fuel rail (looks like a tire valve), you can use a screwdriver to press the center of the valve. If gas squirts out, you do have fuel pressure, prime is not lost, fuel system is good, and you can assume problem is in the ignition circuit, not a fuel problem. Probably the crank position sensor.
Good luck, Casey.

Oct 24, 2013 | 1989 Jeep Comanche

2 Answers

Car was starting perfect until wife tried to start when petrol tank empty have put petrol in car it runs appox 2-3 seconds then cuts out appears fuel being cut off

sounds like fuel pump is running but can not produce enough pressure. try pressurizing the tank with compressed air(may have an air lock) and if that doesnt work consult your local jag dealer for tips before you replace the fuel pump....

Aug 19, 2011 | 1998 Jaguar XJ8L

1 Answer

The engine cut out then right away was running again then 20-30 seconds later completly cut out again. After a few minutes it started again and ran for another two days. Then it cut out again, ran for...

- When was the last time this car had a tune-up? Could be as simple as that. New spark plugs/rotor/distributor cap/condenser might do the trick.

Other causes could be:
- bad fuel pump relay (definitely first on the list of things to check, and cheapest to fix)
- clogged/old fuel filter
- bad fuel pump

Mar 01, 2011 | 1991 Honda Civic

1 Answer

ICEU150 bridge thickness time delay to 1 second and the bridge thickness is still to thick

The bridge thickness on this model starts with the low pressure cut-in control that then in turn starts the timer. It sounds like you have either a bad low pressure control or one that has been tinkered with. To start with if you have a low pressure gauge that you trust what I do is take all of the time off of the timer and unplug the water pump. Then start the unit and watch the low pressure gauge to see at what pressure the harvest starts. an ICEU150 with R-404A should cut in at 44psi. Once that is set plug the water pump in again, put about 400 seconds on the timer, see how thick the ice is after 2 cycles and adjust as needed.

Jun 09, 2010 | Ice-O-Matic ICEU220HA Undercounter Ice...

1 Answer

Polo 1.4 cutting out every 30 seconds

Do you hear the fuel pump cut off? Once your pump reaches pressure it should cut off. Also you can try and remove your fuel cap and see if the car will run just know it could cause your check engine light to come on so do not run it very long. If it continues to run with fuel cap off I would say it is your fuel pump. Good luck with that and the best thing to do is get a fuel pressure gadge and see what kind of fuel pressure you are running. I know there are some parts houses that will loan or rent you tools. Good luck.

May 24, 2009 | 1994 Volkswagen Jetta

1 Answer

Running problems

I am not completely positive that this is your problem but one thing to try when it starts cutting out is to loosen the fuel cap. On a lot of 2000 through 2004 Harleys the vent in the fuel cap gets plugged up and creates a vacuum not allowing the fuel to flow to the carbs. If this doesn't help run the trouble codes to see if there is a ECM related problem. To access the codes, turn the ignition on for about 3 seconds (one second after the fuel pump stops running) and then turn the ignition off for 3 seconds. Repeat this, then turn the ignition on and the codes will flash on the check engine light after about 8 seconds. The first series of flashes (about 3 flashes per second) are intermission flashes then there will be a 2 second delay and the first code will flash. If the first digit of the code is 1 the light will flash one time and then there will be a 2 second pause before the second digit. There will be a 1 second delay between flashes for a digit of 2 or more. All codes are 2 digit codes. For example, 11 would be throttle position sensor, 12, barometric pressure sensor, 14 engine temperature sensor, 15 intake air temperature sensor, 16 battery voltage, 23 and 32 fuel injector, 24 and 25 ignition coil, 33 fuel pump relay, 52,53,54,55 ECM failure, 56 crank position and cam position sensor timing.
Hope this helps.

Apr 11, 2009 | 2003 Harley Davidson FLHTC Electra Glide...

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