Fridge FAN CONTINUALLY STAYS ON OR SHUTS OFF WHEN DOOR IS OPENED:
NORMALLY WHEN THIS HAPPENS U EITHER HAVE A DOOR CONTINUALLY OPEN ISSUE OR A BAD DOOR SEAL LETTING AIR IN AND CAUSING FAN TO OVERWORK ITSELF. ANOTHER CAUSE CAN BE DIRTY COILS AND CONDENSER AND LASTLY NOT TO COMMON IS A SHORT IN THE FAN SYSTEM ITSELF. A MORE PROBABLE CAUSE COULD BE BAD THERMISTORS OR EVEN COLD CONTROL THERMOSTAT ( WHEN THE THERMISTORS OR THERMOSTAT DO NOT GET/GIVE A PROPER READING, THEY CAN CAUSE THE FAN TO CONTINUE TO OPERATE AS THEY FAIL TO RECOGNIZE OR REGULATE THE PROPER TEMPERATURE.
Ice Maker Doesn't Turn Off
If your ice maker keeps making ice, even when it is full:
1Lift the bail wireto shut off the ice maker, and remove the ice bin. Then, using a screwdriver if necessary, remove the ice maker, clean it thoroughly, and then reinstall it.
2If the problem persists,consider removing and replace the entire ice maker and valve. With this type of problem, you can have it repaired, but it's often wiser and less expensive in the long run to replace the unit entirely.
Ice Maker Is Frozen Up
This ice maker repair is even easier. If your ice maker has frozen up, take the following steps to thaw it out:
1Unplug the refrigerator.Remove the ice bin from the refrigerator and remove any loose ice from the ice maker.
2Find the fill tube.This is awhite rubber-like hose that delivers water to the ice maker. Pull down the small metal clip off the housing that holds the fill tube (though not all ice makers have this clip).
3Warm the hoseand surrounding mechanism. To do this, you can train a hair dryer on the ice maker to melt any ice blocking the mechanism. But be very careful (sop up any dripping water with a rag) as electricity and water can present a serious risk of electrical shock. Also, be careful not to melt the plastic parts.
4If you don't want to use a hair dryer,you can soak the supply tubing with hot water, using a turkey baster and catching the overflow in the empty ice maker bin. In some cases, it may be easier to remove the ice maker than to thaw out the fill tube.
On heat release ice makers You will want to check the heating element within the ice maker for continuity and a visual inspection of the board and conductors for burns and seizing, chared marks.
How to Test the Ice Mold Heater
There are two types of ice makers, those in which all of the parts can be individually replaced and those in which some of the parts are clustered together into a control module. To determine which model you have remove the outer face plate. If there is knob, pull it off first, then pry off the face plate with a small screwdriver. Modular units have holes in the module's face plate for test probes. If you see several holes, each marked with a letter, it is a modular unit. It is easier to work on this type of unit by first removing the entireicemaker
from the freezer compartment. The unit is usually mounted to the freezer case by two or more screws. Remove the bottom screws first. While supporting the ice maker, remove the remaining top screws. Unplug the ice maker from the freezer cabinet if you have not already done so. Along the edge nearest the shutoff arm, a pin protrudes through the mounting plate . The arm pin has a spring under the mounting plate. Reduce the tension on the spring by moving the shutoff arm into the "on" position, down, against the ice maker.
Test the heater for resistance using amultitester
. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each of the two terminals (or wires). The reading should be in the range of 60 to 90 ohms. If you get a significantly different reading, such as zero or infinity, then the mold heater is bad and needs to be replaced. Conduct this test with the refrigerator unplugged. Test the moldheater
for resistance using amultitester
. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place one probe into the hole labeled "H" and the other probe into the hole labeled "L". The multitester should read in the range of 60 to 90 ohms.
Also be sure to check and test water valve with a meter for continuity and voltage..( a full 120 and nothing less) And a visual inspection for any ice build up or blockage in tubing and flow line. Remember u may get a close circuit reading of continuity however it may still be bad in that it may remain constantly closed and water keeps flowing more than suppose to. Hence chunks of ice build up.