Question about Maytag Washing Machines
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Okay...I asked you a question in your other posting before I saw this one. This is a common symptom of a defective lid switch. If you try opening and closing the lid and do not hear a distinctive "clicking" sound, your lid switch may need to be replaced. Some lid switches are located on the right-hand side of the lid opening with a small slot. It is activated by a plunger on the lid itself. Make sure the plunger is not broken off. This will also keep the switch from not working. On some model washers the lid switch is located on the left-hand side, in the rear, mounted under the casing near the lid hinge. It is activated by a rod on the lid. Sometimes the rod can be adjusted if it is not making good contact with the switch. In either case, if the switch is not activated, it will allow the washer to fill and agitate, but will not start the rinse or drain cycles. If you wish to attempt the repair yourself, the switch costs about $35 and is fairly simple to replace if you follow the steps below:
First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. I believe your washer has release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. Or, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you will need to perform the following steps:
1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.
2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.
3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.
You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame. Just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in and a ground wire. It's a pretty easy repair job.
Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:
1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.
2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.
3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle and close the console.
I hope you find this helpful. If you have any questions please let me know by posting comments.
Posted on Feb 11, 2008
FIXED!!!! amen. Attached to the back of the washer was a plastic bag with a tech spec pamphlet. Inside the pamphlet were instructions for running tests via the front control panel on the various cycles to weed out the problem -- fill, spin, drain, etc. The test failed on the draining section citing a problem with the drain pump. So long story short and MANY towels later, I found a small finishing nail in the motor. I had removed the hoses thinking there might be a blockage, but found nothing. So I removed the motor and washed it out. Nothing odd there. So I took the front off the motor and found the nail. It somehow made it through the drain holes in the washer drum but got stuck in the motor. Thank you Samsung for taping the tech manual to the back of the washer. I could not find it anywhere on the web for this model. After discovering the testing available via the contol panel and the simplicity of the machine, I love Samsung.
Posted on Apr 03, 2008
When the washer initially fills for the wash, is it only hot water entering the drum? Try switching the water temperature between hot and cold as it fills. If any of them show little or no water getting through, it sounds too easy but check to make sure water supply taps are on, and that the cold/hot fill hoses aren't reversed. Remove the fill hoses and check any of the screen filters for blockage (in the hoses and in the inlet water valve). When the machine stops and waits to fill but all you hear is a hum, it sounds like there is power going to the valve but water is not able to get through it.
Posted on Mar 03, 2009
SOURCE: Washer stopped after wash cycle
The lid switch is the culprit. Push down on the lid it should start. It needs to be adjusted . the tab on the lid is not activating the switch. Try triming the door bumpers.
Posted on Apr 14, 2009
First, pressing cancel twice should clear the error code and it should restart when you press start. Then you can press cancel to stop the whole thing This should also unlock it. Unplugging it for a long while may also clear the code and unlock the door, not sure.
the F-9 says it is an overflow condition and may need to be serviced. The F-11 says there is a serial communication error.This might be the case if the pump is running overtime due to clogging.
To check if the filter is clogged, open the front panel, put a bucket in front of the unit, unseat the rubber feet holding in the white plug, pull the white plug out so when you unscrew it, any water will run into the bucket, then unscrew it and clean the filter. screw the filter back in, set the white plug back into the unit, being sure to secure it with the rubber feet.
As for it stopping, you may be filling it too heavy and the motor stopped if it over heated?
Posted on Apr 24, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Jun 16, 2014 | Frigidaire ATF6000ES Front Load Washer
Jan 30, 2012 | Washing Machines
Nov 21, 2011 | Washing Machines
Mar 21, 2017 | Kenmore 22422 Top Load Washer
Jun 21, 2010 | Kenmore 3.2 cu. ft. Plus Top Load Washer
Oct 19, 2009 | AEG Lavamat 72640 Front Load Washer
Mar 03, 2009 | Kenmore 43142 Front Load Washer
Oct 03, 2007 | Whirlpool AWM5125/1 Front Load Washer
43 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!