An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 20 achievements.
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
Re: installing new armature and field assy how to
They generally have what is called "garter springs" which go around the brush holder. the new field should have these installed already. If you give me the model and brand (shows MAKITA) I will look at a breakdown and confirm.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Are you shure its the trigger careful with this conclusion it can be more simpel to measure or to find the defect part . look first if there is no autostop activated in one of the carbon brushes ! its a small pin that will stand out between the contact side and the commutator collectorsline of the armature if a carbon brush has short-length to protect the armature against the pressurespring of the carbonbrush .
second it can happend that one of the 4 electric field contacts are broken, and if one of the 2 coils are defect by measure to see replace always the powercable because of hidden defect
hitch and start clapping in the stator (electric field) are very high and thats the cause in most cases also be a much changed quick lock cable can cause. then a new connector block and cable replacement bijde, please note all cable and wires should not falter from the socket to the electrical field.
A defect armature that happends oft by this tool multimaster there was a little serie of this 250 watt budget machines that have hiddens defects in the armature if you look at that part then you see not a burned field or armature but the tool becomes very hot to hold in your hands. if you are by a service dealer he can confirm the problem that in most cases not was your fault because if its not burned , but when its burned then replace BOTH the electric field and the armature if you can become that cheap , most times this budget tool is not to expensive to get new. but in that case the 350Watt tool little difference but more to do with.
The space inside the case is limited so everything has to be exactly in it's place or the covers won't come together properly. One of the easiest things to get in wrong is the field, it has flat sides that fit between flanges in the case. If the field is in correctly the armature bearings will both fit all the way down in their spots in the case and the armature will turn freely inside the field with no contact.
I would bet the armature is shot for sure and possibly the field. When an armature shorts out it usually gives off excessive sparking from the brush area. When a field fails it will usually run very slow if at all.
According with the repairt guide, check this porocedure to REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery.
Fig. Exploded view of the starter motor mounting - 5S-FE engine shown, others similar (click image for zoom)
On some early models with cruise control, you may have to remove the battery.
Also on some models with cruise control, remove the actuator cover
and disconnect the wiring harness. Remove the three bolts and then lift
out the cruise control actuator. Remove the bracket from beneath the
actuator and put aside.
Peel the rubber boot away and remove the nut and disconnect the
negative battery cable from the magnetic switch terminal on the starter.
Disconnect the electrical connector also located on the magnetic
Support the starter by hand and remove the two mounting bolts.
Remove the starter from the transaxle.
Place the starter motor in the transaxle and support by hand.
Install the two mounting bolts and tighten them to 29-31 ft. lbs. (39-42 Nm).
Connect the connector to the magnetic switch. Place the battery
cable on the switch terminal and install the nut. Tighten the nut and
position the rubber boot over the cable.
Using the ignition switch, "bump" the starter over a few times and check for proper operation.
SOLENOID OR RELAY REPLACEMENT The starter solenoid (magnetic switch) is an integral part of the starter assembly.
Remove the starter from the car. Remove the heat insulator from the starter assembly, if equipped.
Disconnect the wire lead from the magnetic switch terminal.
Remove the two long, through bolts holding the field frame to the
magnetic switch. Pull out the field frame with the armature from the
On 1.0 kW starters, remove the felt seal. On 1.4 kW starters, remove the O-ring.
To remove the starter housing from the magnetic switch assembly:
On 1.0 kW starters, remove the two screws and the starter housing with the idler gear and clutch assembly.
On 1.4 kW units, remove the two screws and the starter housing with the pinion gear, idler and clutch assembly.
If necessary, install the gears and clutch assembly to the starter housing. Apply grease to the gear and clutch assemblies and:
On 1.0 kW starters, place the clutch assembly, idler gear and bearing in the starter housing.
On 1.4 kW starters, place the clutch assembly, idler gear, bearing and pinion gear in the starter housing.
Insert the spring into the clutch shaft hole and place the starter housing onto the magnetic switch. Install the two screws.
On 1.0 kW units, install the felt seal on the armature shaft. On 1.4 kW units, install the O-ring on the field frame.
Install the field frame with the armature onto the magnetic switch assembly and install the two through bolts.
There is a protrusion or tab on each part; make sure you line them up correctly.
Connect the wire to the terminal on the magnetic switch. Install the heat insulator, if equipped.
Reinstall the starter on the vehicle. Check starter system for proper operation.
Hope this helps (remember to rating and leave a testimonial comment about this answer).
It sounds to me like you have a swollen field and/or armature. What happens in a situation like this is the armature swells after getting started. There is probably a short in either the armature or field or both which is causing the overheating. Once the armature heats a lot it gets stuck in the field. After cooling down it has contracted a little and will move. A good way to see if it is the problem is to remove the motor. Take the brushes out, remove the motor cover and try to remove the armature. If the field and armature have been swollen you will have a very hard time removing the armature, it should just slide out. Usually the plastic sheathing in the field will curl over preventing the removal of the armature. Look for burn marks on the armature and for blown comm bar connections. The armature alone for your model is $160 and the field is $87. It would be worth your while to replace these if they are the problem, along with new brushes and brush tubes. That is unless your housing is damaged due to excessive overheating. In this case you will have to puchase the whole motor which is $406. Post back if you have any questions.
Yes, the bars on armature comutator are lifting, usually caused by heat. Only thing to do is replace armature and brushes, but best to also have field coil tested for shorts before buying new armature.