Question about Desa International Reddy Heater 200,000 BTU Kerosene Forced-Air Heater #R200BT

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I have a model RM200T heater I have replaced all filters, rotor assy., and nozzle assy. pressure is at 6lbs but I get flames out past the end of combustion chamber. How can I stop this problem?

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In the back of the heater there should be a screw adjustment which takes a slotted screw driver try turning the screw I believe counter clockwise to lower the flame.

Posted on Apr 01, 2011

  • dwaring Apr 03, 2011

    I have done that but still get puffs of flame out past the combustion chamber.

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Adjust reddy heater pump pressure it will not pump passed 2half psi i need it to go to 4half psi


To adjust the pump pressure on this type of heater, turn the threaded adjuster clockwise to increase the air pressure, but if the adjustment makes no difference, there maybe a loss of air pressure caused by a crack in the plastic filter end cover, the rubber seal at the end of the nozzle may be broken, gone hard, cracked or missing, there could be a crack in the burner head (where the nozzle screws in), leaking air supply pipe between the compressor and the burner head, the rotor and/or blades may be worn or damaged, or if contaminated with dirt,paint spray or oil, one or more blades may be stuck in the rotor If contaminated they will need to be replaced, but if doing so, remember to reset the clearance between the top of the rotor and the pump body, your manual will give you the correct clearance.

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Ready heater Pro 100 (65-100,000 BTU0) strong oder that berns the eyes after a short period of time and is worse on low settings. Does have suffishent ventalation.What cold be wrong or cause this


Your eyes burn because the flame is burning too rich or too lean. Always start troubleshooting a fuel delivery problem by setting the pump pressure.

If the pressure is correct, check for a restricted fuel filter, a cracked end cover, air or vac leaks between the pump/nozzle and tank/nozzle.

DESA recommended annual replacement of the nozzle because they wear out and start producing a spray rather than a fog.

Oct 10, 2011 | Reddy Heater RLP100 Portable Forced Air...

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I have changed the ignitor, the air and fuel filters, put in fresh fuel, had the photocell and the control board checked. The heater will go through the cycles, ignitor ignites , sprays fuel, fan blows...


Have you checked the air pressure it should be around 6lbs. to do this is in the back on the filter cover remove plug that is on the left side insert a pressure guage turn on heater and look at guage you can adjust air pressure by turning the slotted screw that is to the right of the guage. If you cant get 6lbs of pressure then check the rotor assy. and check to see if you have any cracks any where on the filter cover.

Mar 21, 2010 | Desa International Reddy Heater 200,000...

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Turns on will not pump fuel photo cell works need to know how fuel gets to nozzle 75000 btu reddy heater


the fan motor has on its rear an air pump. pressure from this is fed to the fuel nozzle. the nozzle is constructed like a venturi tube. as air rushes past the venturi it creartes a suction for the fuel and expels it through the mozzle. the spark or hot surface igniter ignites the fuel. the large fan pushes the heated air and flame out the end.

Oct 17, 2009 | Reddy Heating & Cooling

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Reddy heater runs then stops


it's the ignitor itself, if everythingelse is working or new then your just not getting enough spark. Also check your air lines as they do tend to get brittle and if your not getting enough air it won't light either.

Jan 27, 2009 | Reddy Heater-30-55,000 BTU Variable

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Reddy Heater RM60 HSI Forced Air Heater: Pump Pressure Issue!!


ground wire on the circuit board needs to be checked and these units need to have a GOOD three wire cord with a proper grounded outlet

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1 Answer

Reddy Heater runs but will not ignite with bonnet attached.


First, let me say that the general principal of fuel delivery ***to the spark plug*** depends on several things.
  1. Proper air pressure at the nozzle (provided by the rotor/motor)
  2. Proper “fuel pattern” at the nozzle (provided by the rotor/motor/nozzle)
  3. Proper amount of ***air & fuel*** at the nozzle (provided by the rotor/motor/nozzle)
  4. Proper ***air flow (cfm) through the combustion chamber (provided by the fan blade/motor)
  5. Proper rpm’s of the motor, which affects all of the above.

On your heater the first step is to set the air pressure to specs. Instructions are on the www.reddyparts.com website. This pressure setting directly affects fuel delivery & fuel atomization

This nozzle rule will only apply if everything is correct as far as fuel delivery applies. The pump pressure must be correct- not almost correct. Set the pressure with a low-pressure gauge that registers12-15 psi max. A gauge with a higher scale just will not read close enough to satisfy the system. If the pressure is not correct, the above rule will not apply. Instructions for setting the pressure can be viewed at http://reddyparts.com/pressure.htm.

  • Next, if the fan is OK (correct & intact) look at the NOZZLE. DESA recommends annual replacement of the nozzle, which is a wear item. Naturally, annual usage varies, so, wear will depend on annual usage. A worn nozzle produces a cone shaped SPRAY rather than a cone shaped FOG. A spray drowns the spark, where a fog gets ignited, provided it contacts the spark. ALSO, the pattern from a worn nozzle can completely miss the spark (combustion??? Hardly!). When the top is lifted the change in airflow allows a false correction in the combustion chamber, allowing combustion, but when the top is replaced the flame is extinguished. A restricted nozzle or a restricted fuel filter will also distort the fuel pattern and create the same symptom. Also, like the fan blade, make sure that the correct nozzle is installed. Nozzles get swapped, too.


Dec 12, 2008 | Reddy Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

165,000 forced air reddy heater


It would help if I knew the model of heater because there are 2 different technologies that are used in Reddy Heaters. Having more information could affect my answer.

Generally, if a heater runs with the lid off but shuts down with the lid on, its a sign that either the air pump pressure is not to specs or the nozzle is restricted or worn out. Desa International, the manufacturer, recommends annual replacement of the nozzle, but this is arguable, depending on the age of the heater.

I am pasting a document that I've had around for awhile, that may help:

"A worn nozzle creates a spray pattern, where a good nozzle creates a fog. With a coarse spray pattern poor combustion results in an off color flame, . The photocell doesn’t like the color, sends a signal to the computer which shuts everything down. That’s the job of the electronics. On HSI heaters it is all about correct flame color , not just flame.

The part where you write "If I remove the cover again it runs fine" is a symptom of a bad, worn, or restricted nozzle. Remember- the ignitor only stays red for 5 seconds, then the flame keeps itself lit. The nozzle's pattern is a cone. Lift the lid & the pattern widens (aerodynamics) - replace the lid and the cone narrows & possibly distorts then the flame goes out.

This nozzle rule will only apply if everything is correct as far as fuel delivery applies. The pump pressure must be correct- not almost correct. Set the pressure with a low-pressure gauge that registers12-15 psi max. A gauge with a higher scale just will not read close enough to satisfy the system. If the pressure is not correct, the above rule will not apply. Instructions for setting the pressure can be viewed at http://reddyparts.com/pressure.htm.

In addition, a fan can cause the same problem if damaged or mis-matched to your specific model.

I must mention that any air leaks on the pressure side (or vacuum leaks on the fuel line, for that matter) between the pump and the nozzle will create a rich/lean mixture at the combustion chamber, creating an off-color flame."

Good luck, I hope this helps.

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2 Answers

30,000 btu kerosene ready heater


check pressure of the air compressor should be in the 3.0 to 3.5 range. not enough won't suck fuel, too much will blow out the flame. igniter either lights or it doesn't no in between. does the main flame come on?

Jan 05, 2008 | Heating & Cooling

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