Question about Belling Ovens
1.Even a bad relay door switch will hinder your oven from operating.
If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.
THINGS TO CHECK:
the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.
If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms
The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.
Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms
The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.
Posted on May 03, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: My grill won't light
Forgive me for asking this, but you have read the instructions haven't you?
If you have, and it's still not working, then the likelihood is that there is a fault, this could be one of the following:
Faulty solenoid valve to grill (some grills had a safety button fitted to stop you from closing the door if the grill was being used)
Blocked pipe inside unit
Either way you need to get a qualified gas engineer to take a look at it, if it's under warrranty call the manufacturers first!
I hope this helps
Posted on Jul 14, 2009
if the grill is constant sparking when the oven was on and turns off when the oven is not in use then u either have a defective pcb/ht lead or electrode if it is self lighting or if you have to push in a button then this button or control will have a problem
Posted on Aug 21, 2009
SOURCE: oven not heating up [fan works]
It wilbe a faulty oven element, you will need ti fit a new one.
It is located at the rear of the oven, behind a removeable cover.
Please rate my solution.
Posted on Feb 11, 2010
THIS IS PROBABLY BEST LEFT TO A QUALIFIED ENGINEER. To reset the grill thermal cut out. This is located under the metal panel at the top of the unit and it is necessary to ether partially or fully remove the whole oven from its housing to get at it. 1. Disconnect electric supply. 2 remove the 2 housing retaining screws. These are located either side of the at the top of the grill cavity. 3.Pull the whole oven /grill unit out and support it underneath to stop it falling forward. 4. Remove metal cover covering top of oven. 5. the safety cut out is a small component that has 2 wires connected to it by spade terminals, in the middle of which is a small red button. push this button gently with the end of a pencil or screwdriver until it clicks. This should now be reset and allow the gas supply to the grill to resume. Finally reassemble making sure that the integrity of the gas and electrical supplies are, in no way compromised and test.
Posted on Jun 03, 2010
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