Question about Edirol V4 Video Mixer With Effectsships Free

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I HAVE PROBLEM WITH MANUAL HANDLE NOW I ONLY USE AUTO TAKE .. WITH MY EDIROL V4

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  • Edirol Master
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The potentiometer has probably failed... You can TRY putting a bit of CRC226 which is available at HomeDepot in the electrical dept. into the slot and working it. Use only that product as there are other CRC products there. About $2.70 in a small blue aerosol can. Use the spout, spray into the center and move handle. repeat a few times. If that doesn't' work, replace the pot.

Posted on Apr 01, 2011

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Input has shorted. Cant figure out how to take this amp apart.


There are USUALLY 4 screws in dress washers on the top... AND hidden are two for the handle that also grab the amp. Sometimes there are caps over the ends of the handle thaat have to be snapped off... they can be a pain to get off. I believe the amp portion slides out the back... Thhere is twwo wires under the amp that go through a hole to go to the speaker... be careful they are short and they MAY have a ferrite donut around them... It is usually a fight to get them free and even worse when reassemblling to get them back on... AND they put hot melt glue on the connector in the amp... You have to carefully release that...I have a BX1200 and have had it apart once for repair... Input shorted? You mean the input power or the input audio jack... if the latter, let me guess... somebody tripped over the guitar cable... happens all the time... that is why we loop the cable through the handle to avoid breaking the inout connectors.
I am not sure how you analyzed the input audio connector is shorted... these jacks are JUNK and easily broken. If the input POWER is shorted, or appears to be shorted, it may be deeper than the power supply... USUALLY one of the amp chips is shorted.

Here is the service manual for the BX1200 which should be similar... they may have paralleled another LM3886 to get the 180 watts.

http://elektrotanya.com/behringer_bx1200_sch.zip/download.html

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SOMETIMES plastic latches are where there are slots... have to be careful as they can break if you don't open them right.

WORST are latches along the sides that you have to pry open... knowing where they are is key.

You will probably find that the keys consist of conductive rubber "pills" that are in silicone rubber domes that the keys press against finger-like circuit traces on a board under the keys.

Clean BOTH the pills and the traces with 99% isoprophyl alcohol and a Q-tip.

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