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I HAVE A FRIGIDARE FREEZER MODEL GLFU1767FW5 . KEEP POSTING A ERROR CODE OF C E . HAVE CHANGED THE MAIN CONTROL BOARD , SENSOR , DEFROST TERMINATION THERMOSTAT . STILL GIVING SAME RESULT JIM

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

catriver
  • 878 Answers

SOURCE: Freezer won't defrost

Savey, this is for the HSS model. The unit will not go into defrost by pressing the light switch 5 times. It is not programmed to do this. The defrost is controlled by length of time the doors were open since the last defrost. Length of time the compressor has run since the last defrost and the amount of time the defrost heaters were on during the last defrost cycle. Unplug the refer, on the main board unplug the blue connector. Measure the resistance between the blue wire on the connector and the nuetral orange wire on main board J7, pin 9. It should read approx 22 ohms. If it doesn't, check the heaters and the defrost safety thermostat. The defrost safety themostat is a back up to the evaportator thermistor. If that checks ok, verify that the evaporator thermistor and freezer thermistor is in proper range. At 15 degrees, they should ohm at approx 27K ohms. The higher the temp, the lower the resistance. If that checks ok, then you have a board problem. You can send 120V to the heaters by jumping Line to defrost on the 3 pronged blue harness. See if the heaters come on. Catriver.

Posted on Jun 10, 2007

  • 1314 Answers

SOURCE: Defrost timer board

if you pull off the bottom kick plate and there is a tech sheet that gives the procedure if its not there give me your model num and ill look it up for you

Posted on Jan 11, 2008

  • 2976 Answers

SOURCE: GSH25JSRFSS: Replaced main control board but still does not work

Remove the indide back cover in the freezer. If the cooling fins are iced up, give it a full defrost, Look for any holes to the outside near the pipes. Plug them. Chances are a mouse climbed up and chewed the styrofoam and you're sucking warm room air in and the moisture is freezing (icing) up the coils. Ice in the airflow channel can cause clicking against the fan.

Posted on Mar 19, 2009

farfield
  • 462 Answers

SOURCE: Defrost Heater or Main Control Board, Which one is at fault?

Normal 0 false false false MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} To answer your question I know of no reason the electronic type of board would cause the heater to go out unless the defrost thermostat (or sensor) and board stuck in the defrost possession and did not stop the heater. Any time you replace the board and have had a defrost problem a check of the heater will either confirm or eliminate it but the defrost sensor should be replaced if the board is being blamed for non defrost. I cant rule out 100% that a bad board will not cause a heater problem but the high 99% range is most likely. If you have a volt ohm meter and can find the heater circuit on your board and the freezer has been running down to correct temp you can check the defrost circuit by ohming it out. Lower resistance of 10 to 60 ohms is common. Anything higher will require ohming the heater out directly and the defrost thermostat will be open if the temperature is above the stats range.

Common to all self defrosting refrigerators / freezers is the need to move air around to pickup heat inside the compartment. Common to all frost free refrigeration to maintain this feature are 3 items:
1 and initiator (defrost timer or circuit board),
2 A heat source for defrost (Usually an electric heat element but can be other types of heat sources)
3 A safety limit to stop the heat source, leaving it warm enough to defrost and keep the heat contained where it will not affect the compartment advisedly. In a standard type defrost (non - electronic) it is called a thermostat. In an electronic board defrost it is called a sensor.

The defrost timer / or board will never be in the Freezer. Other than that it could be in the refrigerator section behind a plastic cover or metal cover on the back outside. It could also be under Neath the front corners or center of the front kick plate.

A timer you can turn the cam clock wise till it clicks. A board will depend on the manufacturer as to how to send into defrost for a test. A sensor on the defrost type board may be required to by-pass into defrost or test mode.

The freezer section has the only cooling coil. It sounds like it is blocked with frost and thus won’t let the air circulate from freezer to refrigerator.

There is a defrost timer, (or board), a defrost heater, and a defrost safety thermostat. Any One of these or a combination of 2 can be your problem. If you have a energy efficient model that has electronic controls then you will have a board. The procedures for checking the circuit on a board vary by manufacturer of the board used and manufacturer of the appliance.

The defrost heater always has resistance and is attached to the freezer coil.
The defrost thermostat is also attached to the heater electrically, unless it is an electronic sensor type. Sensor types have a range of resistance that needs to be known to check and varies slightly with the temperature of the sensor.

If I haven't lost you here you maybe equipped with the life experiences that will allow you to do most of these checks. If its over your understanding I recommend you contact a reliable technician..

Posted on Apr 17, 2009

mgprice
  • 744 Answers

SOURCE: My freezer was developing frost / not cooling very good.

Hi, With the information you supplied i'm going to assume there is an ice build up at the rear of the freezer. Your problem is going to be with your defrost system. I will also assume you have the ability to repair this yourself. This is going to be one of three problems with your refridgerator, 1st thing to do is remove shelfs and panel in the back of the freezer...you should see ice build up on the evaporator...don't worry get a hair dryer and melt the ice. Next locate the wires for the heater...using a multi meter test the heater for condinuity...if the heater is bad replace it, If the heater is good replace the defrost thermostat..the stat normally is a barrel looking part clipped onto the evaporator pipe. The last possible problem could be the evaporator fan, have you heard the fan running in the past few hours?..if you are not sure pull the panel out to where you can see fan and watch it over an hour to see if it turns. I have included links with pictures of what the parts you need to check are: http://romulusappliance.com/manufacturers/maytag/refrigerators/575432.JPG defrost stat http://www.hotekalliance.com/UploadFiles/2008627111553382.jpg heaters http://www.applianceblog.com/archives/EvapMotor1018185.jpg evap fan. Hope this helps. If you have any other questions please feel free to comment again. If you decide to get a repair guy in should not cost you any more then $120 - $200 depending on make/model/problem Good luck! P.s Please don't forget to rate my solution Thanks! and thanks for using Fixya. Mike

Posted on Jul 29, 2009

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How to fix error code H1


Frigidaire Refrigerator Error Code = SY CE
Condition = Communications error at power up
Repair or Check = Check wiring between control board and user interface
Parts Needed = Control board or User interface
Frigidaire Refrigerator Error Code = 4
Condition = Fridge and the control board goes through cycles but does not detect a damper connection
Repair or Check = Check air damper
Parts Needed = Air damper
Frigidaire Refrigerator Error Code = 5Y EF
Condition = Evaporator fan circuit failure
Repair or Check = Check wiring between evaporator fan and control board
Parts Needed = Evaporator fan or control board
Frigidaire Refrigerator Error Code = EF
Condition = Evaporator fan circuit failure
Repair or Check = Check wiring between evaporator fan and control board
Parts Needed = Evaporator fan or control board
Frigidaire Refrigerator Error Code = dF
Condition = No defrost circuit
Repair or Check = Check wiring between defrost circuit and control board
Parts Needed = Main control board or Wiring harness
Frigidaire Refrigerator Error Code = H1
Condition = Freezer sensor shorted in freezer display
Repair or Check = Check wiring between thermistor and board. If correct, replace thermistor
Parts Needed = Thermistor (temp sensor)


Frigidaire Refrigerator Error Code = 5y CF
Condition = Communications failure at power up
Repair or Check = Check wiring between control board and user interface
Parts Needed = Control board or user interface

Sep 28, 2016 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

The code ER CO keeps coming on, on the display panel. The fridge and freezer still work but the code keeps coming up. Any info on that?


LG Bottom Freezer Refrigerator Error Codes Sears PartsDirect


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LG Refrigerator Error Codes

These error code explanations can help you diagnose a problem with your LG bottom-freezer refrigerator. For repair how-to help, visit the PartsDirect repair help section, which includes repair help for washing machines, other major appliances, lawn and garden equipment, garage door openers, vacuum cleaners and more. You can also search for owner's manuals, get advice from an expert and find refrigerator replacement parts. Error Code
Er FS Error Code
Er rS Error Code
F dS Error Code
r dS Error Code
Er HS Error Code
Er IS Error Code
Er SS Error Code
Er rt Error Code
Er It Error Code
Er gF Error Code Error Code
r dH Error Code
Er IF Error Code
Er FF Error Code
Er CF Condition
Condenser fan motor is defective Check/Repair
Condenser fan motor, wiring or the control board Shop Parts
Condenser fan motor, Power control board, Wiring harness Error Code
Er CO Condition
Communication error Check/Repair
Communication error between main board and display board Shop Parts
Display control board, Power control board, Wiring harness

Jul 16, 2015 | LG LFX25974ST 24.7 cu. ft. French Door...

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I have a GE Profile refrigerator model #PFSSPKXBSS and the front control panel gets frozen. The only time I can change the settings is when the display panel goes haywire and starts changing all the...


solenoid for the ice dispenser flopper might get rusted, so the flop door would not close and freezer air would escape building up ice. need new solenoid assy for ice dispenser door and possible flopper.

Mar 27, 2015 | GE Refrigerators

1 Answer

Error code 21


That particular error code is for a defrost overheat. The thing about that error code is that most of the time there is nothing wrong. The reason for this is there is a sensor that is located in the freezer and is connected to the control board located in the refrigerator. They are connected by three sections of wire that connect together instead of one continous wire. Over time these connections lose good connection, mainly because of exposure and in doing so the main control board thinks of it as a failure in the defrost system because thats the only purpose of that line. In the past sub zero would have us access the sensor, and folling the wire,cut each connection out and tie the line together with wire nuts to form a more solid connection. I want to say the wire is yellow but its been a while so don't quote me on the color.

May 17, 2012 | Sub-Zero 650 / O Bottom Freezer...

3 Answers

Samsung RB215LABP bottom Freezer shows my set temperature of -2 but maintains at -15. If I cycle power it will show the actual temperature for a while (hours). We had a power outage in a storm and it blew...


Since the defrost problem wont just go away here are details about how it works.

DEFROST PROBLEM
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it's bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it's in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

Jun 01, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

I HAVE AN ERROR CODE dH on my Kenmore Elite bottom


The Er DH error code indicates the temperature sensor on the evaporator coil did not reach 50 degrees within one hour.
This would indicate the control board did put the refrigerator through a defrost cycle.

This problem could be caused by a defective relay on the control board, a defective defrost heater, a broken wire to the heater, or a stopped up drain on the defrost pan causing ice to form on the evaporator coil.

Before replacing the control board, someone should remove the food from the freezer, remove the freezer drawer, and remove the evaporator cover to expose the evaporator coil, heater, and defrost sensor.
The voltage to the defrost heater should be 120 volts ac.
The defrost heater is part of the evaporator coil and is not replaceable as a separate part.

You can test the operation of the defrost system by pressing "Ultra Ice" and "colder freezer temp" for 3 seconds.
The first time you press and hold the buttons the board will test the compressor, fan, and open the damper.

All displays should be on.


The second time you press and hold the buttons the board will test the compressor, fan, and close the damper.

The third time you press and hold the buttons, the board will turn the compressor and fan off and turn the defrost heater on for around 25 minutes. This would let you know if the defrost system is working.


http://knol.google.com/k/fixing-the-er-dh-code-on-kenmore-elite-trio#

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Apr 14, 2010 | Kenmore 77554 / 77543 Bottom Freezer...

1 Answer

We have a Kenmore Elite Trio that keeps giving us an error message in the electronic window of er dH


The Er DH error code indicates the temperature sensor on the evaporator coil did not reach 50 degrees within one hour.
This would indicate the control board did put the refrigerator through a defrost cycle.

This problem could be caused by a defective relay on the control board, a defective defrost heater, a broken wire to the heater, or a stopped up drain on the defrost pan causing ice to form on the evaporator coil.

Before replacing the control board, someone should remove the food from the freezer, remove the freezer drawer, and remove the evaporator cover to expose the evaporator coil, heater, and defrost sensor.
The voltage to the defrost heater should be 120 volts ac.
The defrost heater is part of the evaporator coil and is not replaceable as a separate part.

You can test the operation of the defrost system by pressing "Ultra Ice" and "colder freezer temp" for 3 seconds.
The first time you press and hold the buttons the board will test the compressor, fan, and open the damper.

All displays should be on.


The second time you press and hold the buttons the board will test the compressor, fan, and close the damper.

The third time you press and hold the buttons, the board will turn the compressor and fan off and turn the defrost heater on for around 25 minutes. This would let you know if the defrost system is working.


http://knol.google.com/k/fixing-the-er-dh-code-on-kenmore-elite-trio#

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Aug 30, 2009 | Kenmore Elite 22.4 cu. ft. Bottom Freezer...

1 Answer

Frigidare refrigerator FRS26ZTH FREEZER FREEZING UP/FRIG NOT COOL


also check defrost timer,defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

Jul 01, 2009 | Frigidaire FRS26R4A Side by Side...

10 Answers

Kenmore Elite Refrigerator error er dh


Great advice from medeer, I had the same ER DH error code, and my refrigerator began to warm up. I replaced the defrost thermostat assembly part # 6615JB2005H which is located inside the freezer, on the right side behind the white plastic panel. I accessed it by removing the freezer door, all components inside the freezer, and the tracks mounted on the sides of the freezer. Be careful when removing the white panel because a fan is mounted to the left side of the white panel and plugs into the back left side of the freezer compartment.
Found the green technical data sheets under the refrigerator in a small plastic bag near the front.
My refrigerator is 20 months old, just a few months past the warrentee,

Feb 19, 2008 | Kenmore Elite 22.4 cu. ft. Bottom Freezer...

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