Question about Refrigerators
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Freezer won't defrost
Savey, this is for the HSS model. The unit will not go into defrost by pressing the light switch 5 times. It is not programmed to do this. The defrost is controlled by length of time the doors were open since the last defrost. Length of time the compressor has run since the last defrost and the amount of time the defrost heaters were on during the last defrost cycle. Unplug the refer, on the main board unplug the blue connector. Measure the resistance between the blue wire on the connector and the nuetral orange wire on main board J7, pin 9. It should read approx 22 ohms. If it doesn't, check the heaters and the defrost safety thermostat. The defrost safety themostat is a back up to the evaportator thermistor. If that checks ok, verify that the evaporator thermistor and freezer thermistor is in proper range. At 15 degrees, they should ohm at approx 27K ohms. The higher the temp, the lower the resistance. If that checks ok, then you have a board problem. You can send 120V to the heaters by jumping Line to defrost on the 3 pronged blue harness. See if the heaters come on. Catriver.
Posted on Jun 10, 2007
SOURCE: Defrost timer board
if you pull off the bottom kick plate and there is a tech sheet that gives the procedure if its not there give me your model num and ill look it up for you
Posted on Jan 11, 2008
Remove the indide back cover in the freezer. If the cooling fins are iced up, give it a full defrost, Look for any holes to the outside near the pipes. Plug them. Chances are a mouse climbed up and chewed the styrofoam and you're sucking warm room air in and the moisture is freezing (icing) up the coils. Ice in the airflow channel can cause clicking against the fan.
Posted on Mar 19, 2009
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To answer your question I know of no reason the electronic type of board would cause the heater to go out unless the defrost thermostat (or sensor) and board stuck in the defrost possession and did not stop the heater. Any time you replace the board and have had a defrost problem a check of the heater will either confirm or eliminate it but the defrost sensor should be replaced if the board is being blamed for non defrost. I cant rule out 100% that a bad board will not cause a heater problem but the high 99% range is most likely. If you have a volt ohm meter and can find the heater circuit on your board and the freezer has been running down to correct temp you can check the defrost circuit by ohming it out. Lower resistance of 10 to 60 ohms is common. Anything higher will require ohming the heater out directly and the defrost thermostat will be open if the temperature is above the stats range.
Common to all self defrosting refrigerators / freezers is the need to move air around to pickup heat inside the compartment. Common to all frost free refrigeration to maintain this feature are 3 items:
1 and initiator (defrost timer or circuit board),
2 A heat source for defrost (Usually an electric heat element but can be other types of heat sources)
3 A safety limit to stop the heat source, leaving it warm enough to defrost and keep the heat contained where it will not affect the compartment advisedly. In a standard type defrost (non - electronic) it is called a thermostat. In an electronic board defrost it is called a sensor.
The defrost timer / or board will never be in the Freezer. Other than that it could be in the refrigerator section behind a plastic cover or metal cover on the back outside. It could also be under Neath the front corners or center of the front kick plate.
A timer you can turn the cam clock wise till it clicks. A board will depend on the manufacturer as to how to send into defrost for a test. A sensor on the defrost type board may be required to by-pass into defrost or test mode.
The freezer section has the only cooling coil. It sounds like it is blocked with frost and thus won’t let the air circulate from freezer to refrigerator.
There is a defrost timer, (or board), a defrost heater, and a defrost safety thermostat. Any One of these or a combination of 2 can be your problem. If you have a energy efficient model that has electronic controls then you will have a board. The procedures for checking the circuit on a board vary by manufacturer of the board used and manufacturer of the appliance.
The defrost heater always has resistance and is attached to the freezer coil.
The defrost thermostat is also attached to the heater electrically, unless it is an electronic sensor type. Sensor types have a range of resistance that needs to be known to check and varies slightly with the temperature of the sensor.
If I haven't lost you here you maybe equipped with the life experiences that will allow you to do most of these checks. If its over your understanding I recommend you contact a reliable technician..
Posted on Apr 17, 2009
Hi, With the information you supplied i'm going to assume there is an ice build up at the rear of the freezer. Your problem is going to be with your defrost system. I will also assume you have the ability to repair this yourself. This is going to be one of three problems with your refridgerator, 1st thing to do is remove shelfs and panel in the back of the freezer...you should see ice build up on the evaporator...don't worry get a hair dryer and melt the ice. Next locate the wires for the heater...using a multi meter test the heater for condinuity...if the heater is bad replace it, If the heater is good replace the defrost thermostat..the stat normally is a barrel looking part clipped onto the evaporator pipe. The last possible problem could be the evaporator fan, have you heard the fan running in the past few hours?..if you are not sure pull the panel out to where you can see fan and watch it over an hour to see if it turns. I have included links with pictures of what the parts you need to check are: http://romulusappliance.com/manufacturers/maytag/refrigerators/575432.JPG defrost stat http://www.hotekalliance.com/UploadFiles/2008627111553382.jpg heaters http://www.applianceblog.com/archives/EvapMotor1018185.jpg evap fan. Hope this helps. If you have any other questions please feel free to comment again. If you decide to get a repair guy in should not cost you any more then $120 - $200 depending on make/model/problem Good luck! P.s Please don't forget to rate my solution Thanks! and thanks for using Fixya. Mike
Posted on Jul 29, 2009
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