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My gas dryer will not heat . i checked the thermostats they were good i replaced the ignitor. what should i check next

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  • Anonymous Aug 20, 2008

    the dryer runs but there is no heat

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2 Suggested Answers

  • 11 Answers

SOURCE: gas dryer

have you tried the thermal fuse?

Posted on Oct 28, 2009


  • 401 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Gas Dry won't heat--good air flow

Yes, there could be more than one. There could be a couple of cycle thermostats (always at least one), and a high limit thermostat.

Posted on Jan 03, 2010

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My Maytag dryer DG8420 doesn't light up the gas. The last time this happened (June 2006) the repairman replaced the ignitor. This time I took out the ignitor and attached the leads of my VOM to it and...


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As the clothes gently toss about inside the drum, a temperature control thermostatic disk regulates the heat. It is set for 160f for cotton and it mounts on the blower housing. As air is drawn into the drum and out the backside of the dryer the heat is regulated by this control. It sends 120 volts to the gas assembly. Right next to it is a fuse. The duct fuse is set to blow at 250f. Should that control fail to open and allow for heat to build to abnormally high temps. Note: the fuse will kill the heat source only on most dryer, the dryer will however continue to run. Lint and vent blockage can restrict the airflow and make the heat inside build to dangerous levels.The control thermostat powers up the heat for a minute then shuts down for a few minutes, then repeats this all throughout the drying process, the gas does not stay on! That would burn the clothes. If both of those items check ok and the dryer vent and lint has been cleaned, I next take a look at the gas assembly. I check the flame sensor first. If the flame sensor is open the ignitor will not glow. If that turns out to be good I next check the ignitor itself for continuity. If it turns out to be good I replace the coils. Those coils cannot be checked because they do not act up until energised. Sometimes the coils will work, get hot and fail, cool down and work again. I have some repair photos: HERE

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2 Answers

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If electric then the thermostat or the heating element has failed.
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See also: http://home.howstuffworks.com/how-to-repair-a-dryer.htm

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4 Answers

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The heat is regulated with a Klixon mounted next to the blower housing near the vent pipe so it can judge the temperature of the air coming out of the drum.Right next to it is a melting type fuse. If the dryer runs and gets too hot the fuse will melt.But the dryer will still run. So if the fuse is good(continuity) and the dryer control(cycle) thermostat is also good then you should have power going to the gas valve assembly when the machine is running unless the timer is in the no heat or wrinkle free/cool down mode. When the gas valve assembly is energized the flame sensor a%20flame%20sensor%202.bmp flame sensor mounted outside the burner chamber detects the heat from the ignitor. When the heat is very intense then the sensor shuts down the igniter
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The heat is regulated with a Klixon mounted next to the blower housing near the vent pipe so it can judge the temperature of the air coming out of the drum.Right next to it is a melting type fuse. If the dryer runs and gets too hot the fuse will melt.But the dryer will still run. So if the fuse is good(continuity) and the dryer control(cycle) thermostat is also good then you should have power going to the gas valve assembly when the machine is running unless the timer is in the no heat or wrinkle free/cool down mode. When the gas valve assembly is energized the flame sensor mounted outside the burner chamber detects the heat from the ignitor. When the heat is very intense then the sensor shuts down the ignitor and that frees up the power so that the coils can be fully energised and open the gas gates. The gas comes out and hits the red hot ignitor and you have ignition. It stays on for maybe 2 or 3 minutes or until the control thermostat is satisfied and shuts down power to the gas valve assembly.
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1 Answer

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Most of these issues will need an ohm meter, unless you want to just take a guess.
For Gas dryers.
1. See if the ignitor glows, if not, check the thermal fuse. (if the lint screen is on top, the fuse is accessed behind the back panel, it's small and white, next to the bulkier thermostat. If the lint screen is in the front panel, the thermal fuse is mounted on top of the blower wheel housing, accessed behind the bottom-front or "kick" panel. The fuse should read 0 to .2 ohms at the most, technically is should be zero. If that checks ok, check the ignitor itself, which has a wire harness that connects about 6" from the ignitor. Should be around 50 ohms... a faulty ignitor would read infinite ohms (open).
2. If the ignitor does glow, and you hear a click, but there is no flame, replace the valve coils, (two small cylindrical objects mounted on the valve) Part # 279834. This is assuming your gas is ON.

If Electric, it would not be the fuse, as on electric dryers it is also in the motor circuit, and the dryer would not run at all. Check the heating element, should be around 9-11 ohms. If good, check all thermostats (operating, hi-limit, thermal cutoff). Infinite ohms is bad. Hopefully it's not more complicated than this, or it can get weird..... Hope this helps.

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