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I have a Huskylock 460D overlocker. The lower looper thread tension does not grip no matter how much I adjust it. I get loose overlock loops. Please can you help. The machine is 12 years old and this problem is new..

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: lower looper threader

check to make sure it is not wraping around the upper looper. just stitch without the material and you will see it. but then you must rethread the upper looper and the lower looper again in the right order. hope this helps

Posted on Jun 25, 2008

kent581
  • 87 Answers

SOURCE: timing on a Huskylock 535D surger

the eyes of the needles must line up with lower looper as they pass (timing) the distance between the needle and the looper must be exact. No distance between them and not touching. yep, that tight. they shouldnt move the needle even the slightest amount as they pass each other, yet no space between them.
Kent

Posted on Mar 19, 2009

Zenqi
  • 208 Answers

SOURCE: I need a threading diagram for a Viking Huskylock 560ED serger

Call Husqvarna Viking at 440-808-6550 and they will email you a PDF of the manual.

Posted on Oct 01, 2009

  • 1116 Answers

SOURCE: instructions for threading the huskylock 34d overlock machine

I found this manual - http://www.sewingmachinemanual.net/

However, if you google 'how to thread a serger indi" you will get a video that will give you the basics.

Before you start, raise the antenna to it's highest position and open the tensions by setting to zero, or if your serger has auto tension, raise the presser foot to open the tensions.

Posted on Mar 21, 2010

  • 1116 Answers

SOURCE: Serger stitch not forming right

It sounds like the timing needs to be reset by a sewing machine repair tech.

Posted on May 09, 2010

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1 Answer

Pushing material away, but still overlocking


It is difficult to tell what exactly is happening with your serger.

First thing--make sure you RAISE the presser foot BEFORE you thread any of the threads. This releases the tension disks so the threads will seat properly. You may need to remove all the threads and rethread from the beginning, making sure you thread each in the proper order. Start out with the thread tensions set at the ideal setting--usually the halfway point between the high & low numbers. From there, you will adjust them to even up the thread tensions.

Are you actually trimming off some of the fabric as it is stitching? If so, you might try increasing the cutting width (moves the cutting edge further toward the right) so that there is more fabric caught within the looper threads. It also appears that the looper tensions may be too loose. Try tightening the upper and lower looper tensions so less of the thread loops don't fall off the fabric's raw edge.

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Dec 30, 2015 | Sewing Machines

1 Answer

Bernina 335 serger won't sew/overlock. carefully rethreaded the serger but that hasn't helped.


The 335 has a two thread chain stitch (stitch type 401), and the overlock side (right needle side), is a three thread plain overlock. If you are describing the plain overlock as the problem, I would first suggest the following in re-threading:

1. Thread the upper looper
2. Thread the lower looper
3. Thread the needle last (important)

If the needle threaded, you cannot re-thread the lower looper without breaking the thread.
In order to thread the lower looper, the lower looper must pass by the needle thus picking up the needle thread. So, instead of threading the lower looper thread underneath the needle thread, the looper would be threaded on top and cannot sew without breaking the thread.
Make sure that the threads are bedded between the tension disks. Check this by stretching the thread fore and aft of the tension disks as well as visually noting that the threads are not accidentally threaded behind the disks. You can also loosen the tension disks when threading so as to allow the threads to bed deeply between the disks.
Please reply with your observations.

Sep 27, 2015 | Bernina Sewing Machines

1 Answer

I have a Huskylock 460D and the thread keeps coming out of the lower looper. Can you help?


un thread your needles before threading the Lower looper. thread lower looper, then thread needles and your good to go

Jun 30, 2014 | Husqvarna Sewing Machines

1 Answer

Adjusting tension on overlocker


overlockers and sergers are annoying in that every time you change materials and threads they must be re-tensioned.

Get a scrap piece of material. Thread your machine correctly according to the instructions in your manual. If no manual most sergers are threaded, upper looper, lower looper then needles from right to left. Make sure you thread with the presser foot UP.

You want to balance the stitches Begin by adjusting the looper dials, you want them to meet right at the cut edge. Then adjust your needles. Keep doing test seams until you have them balanced. If you are a novice... try threading with each thread point having it's own color. That will help you identify which thread is giving you fits.

Have fun.

Oct 15, 2012 | Janome MyLock 634D Mechanical Sewing...

1 Answer

Toyota SL3455DS overlocker tension problems


Did you thread in the proper order? Upper looper, lower looper, needles from right to left?

Oct 06, 2012 | Sewing Machines

1 Answer

Correct threading for 4 th. Juki ind. overlocker


Overlockers and or Sergers are ALWAYS threaded the same way. Upper looper, Lower looper, right needle, left needle. If you have a model number for your Juki we might be able to find you more information.

The best way to figure out tension problems is to thread each thread in a different color so you can determine which thread is giving you problems.

These machines can be frustrating and EVERY time the thread breaks you MUST start the threading problem from the beginning... upper looper, lower looper, right needle left needle.

Aug 31, 2012 | Sewing Machines

1 Answer

I have just been given a huskylock 341. The tension is off. How do I correct this?


Have you used an overlocker before? If not, I'd suggest that you obtain a user manual for it as they are completely different to a sewing machine and at some point you will need to rethread it. You can purchase one from here
http://pages.sewing-machine-manuals.com/173/PictPage/3923709707.html

This machine makes three and four thread seams, which is a combination of two needles and two loopers. For the three thread seam you can use either the left or right needle which gives you different sized seams. For the four thread you use both needles, one goes through the middle of the seam and the other is on the left side securing the seam. tally_girl_70.jpg On most overlockers you are able to move the cutting blade too and this will reduce or increase the amount of fabric being trimmed from the right side.

This page http://sewing.about.com/od/sergersoverlock/ss/serger.htm will give you some general information on sergers/overlockers too.

So adjusting tension is a matter of changing the tension on the top and lower looper threads to close up against the cut edge, or moving the blade over to make the seam a little wider or narrower. You may also need to finess the left needle tension so that the seam doesn't pull apart, I always test serge two layers and then pull open from the right side and see if the needle thread is showing (it will show a little bit but you dont want it so loose that it pulls open. Only tighten the needles in very small increments though, as you'll break threads and needles if you turn them up too tight.

Hard to explain without seeing what your machine is seaming now. But as a rule of thumb, start with all four tension dials (or 3 if doing a three thread seam) on 5. If the tension dials are correctly calibrated then this should give you a pretty good seam. You may wish to lengthen the stitches, I usually work with stitch length of 2.5 (same as your sewing machine stitch length) Stitch length will be a dial on the right side beside the flywheel or in front of the blade area. The blade adjustment should be a little knob near the blade area too. There will be a lower fixed blade and a moving upper blade which sits against the lower one, they work like scissors to trim the fabric. So to adjust the blade, you will need to take the pressure off the upper blade, then wind the knob to move it left or right.

Different weights of fabric will behave differently on the overlocker so you do need to adjust tension for each new project. For example, if seaming a jersey knit you'd use a four thread seam, this gives elasticity and strength and you can join two garment pieces with this seam. You'd probably make a 6mm or 7mm wide seam, the left needle will secure the fabric and the loopers will encase the fabric smoothly while the right needle secures them and gives extra strenth to the seam.

But on organza for example, I would make a very narrow three thread seam using the right needle as the organza will roll inside the overlocking if you cut the fabric too wide.

And on something like curtains I would neaten the edge with a wide 3 thread seam using the left needle to get a very wide seam, the fabric wont roll so you'd need to loosen the two loopers a little to smoothly encase the cut edge.
tally_girl_71.jpg For example, on this image above you can see that the looper threads are laying a little off the edge of the fabric in places, particularly the lower looper, (the side that looks like Y's where you can't really see the middle needle thread), so I would tighten the lower looper about .5 on its dial, then test again.

I hope that this makes sense to you, you will need to test serge, and adjust one dial at a time, test again and look at the result, then maybe adjust another thread until you are getting a smooth looking seam.

Sep 05, 2011 | Sewing Machines

1 Answer

I am trying to do a rolled hem using a singer ultralock 14sh654. Do I disengage the knife? The stitches are uneven and some are quite loose no matter how much I adjust the tension. I am positive I...


no, you need the blade in place and cutting to give an even cut fabric edge. Set up for a three thread using the right hand needle, take out the left hand needle. move blade over to the right so it is cutting wide. Most overlockers there is also a thread finger you need to change on the foot, or a little lever you flick to move this finger forward into the stitching area. Check this on your manual as each make is a bit different.
If you can source it, put wooly nylon thread into the upper looper (knot it onto existing thread and just chain it through, the knot should go through the looper eye fine). Now turn the tension on top looper down so it is looser and tighten up tension on bottom looper, so needle 5, top looper 2 and bottom looper about 7.

Now test serge, the fabric cut edge should be wider than the overlocking seam so the fabric rolls under inside the stitching. Adjust the two looper threads so that this is happening, you want the bottom looper thread to nest right up against the needle stitch and the top looper thread to wrap all the way around too.

Once you've got this happening, turn the stitch length down to 0.5, to close the stitching right up. On some fabrics you'll need to adjust the differential feed too if the fabric is "waving" a bit.

Uneven stitches or sometimes loose when serging could indicate that one of the tension devices is faulting, so if this machine is not new and its doing this, it could need a service. Can you get a regular smooth three or 4 thread seam out if it???

It is always good to just recheck the threading path, make sure the thread aerial is up and that a thread hasn't got caught back on the thread stand somewhere if you're getting something wonky happening, threads stream off overlocker cones through the machine so anything wrong in the thread path will throw off the stitching.

Jun 25, 2011 | Singer 14SH654

1 Answer

How do i adjust the loose thread on top? Using the 3 thread stitch the top loop is loose and bulging over edge instead of smooth with rest of stitches. Setting is set to recommended setting but is still...


I always adjust my overlocker stitch in several ways. I start test serging with the blade set right out to the right so that it "fills" the stitching. I'll set all the thread dials to the middle setting, ie. 5. Then I test serge, and check the stitch formation. If the needle is looping underneath, then I'll tighten it "A LITTLE". If the looper threads are lying off the cut edge of the fabric, then I'll dial both the top and bottom looper numbers up a little to make those threads tighter.

Each fabric behaves differently depending on its "hand" so the right stitch settings do vary, ie. organza is different to heavy weight cotton or denim. So if my inital setting is then "bunching" up the fabric within the stitching, I will then lower the numbers for the top and bottom looper to release the thread some. And if the fabric is very soft and light and still bunches up, then I will move the blade over to the left some, cutting a narrower edge within the overlocking so the threads lie better.

So revist the settings, check that the cones are flowing freely, thread is into the tension devices fully, then retest the stitching. If it is the top looper only that is looping off the edge, and not the bottom as well, and they are both set to the same number, then I'd be a bit suss about the tension dial.

Feb 28, 2011 | Singer 14SH654

1 Answer

Trouble with my Huskylock 680D overlocker Tensions


You need to re-thread the serger.

Refer to the manual or open the front of the serger to see if the threading diagram is there.

With most sergers, you begin with raising the presser foot, then set the tensions to zero.

Begin the threading with the upper looper (curved looper), then the lower looper and the needles last.

Pull the thread under the presser foot and to the left side of the serger.

Set the tensions back to normal 4 - 5 usually.

Lower the presser foot and hold onto the threas tails as you stitch a chain. If the chain of the four threads is ok, you are ready to serge fabric.

Feb 21, 2010 | Husqvarna Sewing Machines

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