Question about Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Drum noise
Maybe there are coins left in the pockets that stucked within the drum during drain process. You can also check the bearing holder of your washing machine for this is also one of the reasons why noises occur during oepration
Posted on Mar 11, 2008
SOURCE: washing machine
it could be the break above the transmission. it engages what looks like break shoes when the machine is not spinning. if these are worn down to the rivets then it will make this noise. it requires a special tool to replace.
Posted on Jul 14, 2008
It sounds like the motor needs to be replaced, you can drain the water by taking the drain hose from the drain and lowering down water will drain.
Posted on Jun 01, 2009
After taking off the front cover, look up at the top of the tub just under the lid. there should be a thick rubber strap at each corner of the machine tying in the tub to the top. These are called dampening straps. One or more may be broken. I usually replace all four if I do one.
Posted on Nov 14, 2009
Testimonial: "Thank you for your reply. That was the problem! Thanks again."
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
Also see the Whirlpool / Kenmore Service Manual for these washers:
And the following for how to release the console, cabinet and pump, motor, transmission and tub.
DON'T BE ALARMED, THE ABOVE ARE REFERENCES AT THIS POINT. YOU CAN FIX IT. (THESE ARE RELATIVELY EASY TO FIX IF YOU TAKE YOUR TIME.)
The first thing to check is how well the tub is attached to the spin tube. Over time, the nut that holds the tub on may have worked loose. The description for how to pull the tub should help.
You don't have to buy a special spanner wrench ($20) to remove the spanner nut. I've used a short 10" pipe wrench (about $9.00 also good for cracking walnuts) hooked over one of the tabs on the spanner nut, tap the handle with a hammer and it should loosen.
Also, don't directly hit the drive block with a hammer. Use a short piece of wood under the drive block and tap up on the wood.
If the tub is firmly attached to the drive tube, the next thing to check is the drive tube itself to make sure that it's not broken. Pull it (following the illustrated instructions and the Service Manual) and check it. Also check the pads / springs for the brake.
NOW FOR THE FUN PART.
If the tub is fine and the drive tube is fine, the problem could be in the gearcase itself. (It's a messy but not difficult job)
There are two plastic cams within the gearcase that lift the agitator shaft out of the way when the washer goes into spin mode. If the cams are worn (they don't have to be broken) they may not lift the shaft high enough (about 1/16") out of the way.
Also see the following for how the transmission works and the whirlpool parts list for the commercial washers (although the consumer models use the same gearcase.)
Basically whats happening is this.
When the washer goes into spin mode two plastic cams are forced together and raise a gear on the main agitator shaft that is supposed to keep the agitators from spinning. If the cams are worn (not necessarily broken) the gear doesn't lift high enough to completely disengage the agitators. We had the same problem. Ours was a major gear noise but a clicking could also be a symptom. A set of Whirlpool Agitate Cams (part number 62580/01) cost about $15.00.
It's a bit messy to fix (15 oz. of oil in the transmission) but very inexpensive.
In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators.
The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. A 1/2" socket extension works well.
You don't have to remove the drum.
Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.
Pull the transmission, check the clutch bands and springs before going further. If they are worn, sears and Whirlpool have replacement spring / band kits. If they are fine, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft.
Remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 15 Oz of 80-90 weight gear oil. (Available at auto parts stores)
Remove the transmission cover.
Pull off the spin pinion.
Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.
The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.
Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.
Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.
I'd also check the Motor Coupler (a $15.00 item that tends to wear) while you have the transmission out.
The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)
Posted on Apr 26, 2010
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