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I HAVE A WHIRLPOOL DRYER MODEL# GE/GQ9858J, I JUST REPLACED THE THERMAL FUSE, WANTED TO REPLACE CYCLING THERMOSTAT AT THE SAME TIME BUT PART NOT IN STOCK SO DID NOT, NOW WHEN CLOTHES ARE DONE, BEEPER GOES OFF, CLOTHES ARE WAY TO HOT, COULD THIS BE THE CYCLING THERMOSTAT, GUY AT PARTS STORE SAID TO REPLACE BOTH AT SAME TIME BUT NO CYCLING THERMOSTAT WAS IN STOCK, I AM JUST A HOMEOWNER THAT LIKES TO FIX THINGS, LEARNED HOW TO CHECK THERMAL FUSE ON INTERNET

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 12 Answers

SOURCE: Dryer does not get hot enough to dry clothes Roper REX4634KQ1 Electric Dryer

If your element is operating and drawing about 20 amps when on, your problem may be the thermostat (temperature dial) or the moisture sensor (if applicable).  My dryer has 2 heating elements.

Posted on Oct 15, 2007

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: whirlpool dryer LGR5636PQ0

I replaced the heating element and had the old one checked and had the thermastat's checked as well and it still does the same thing, will not blow hot air and will not cut off when cycle is supose to be finished, what should I do?

Posted on Feb 21, 2008

localwonder
  • 6784 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Clothes Dryer Model 67902790 has no heat

Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.(Thermal cut-off)

Posted on Aug 24, 2009

Macmarkus
  • 2605 Answers

SOURCE: Hello, I have whirlpool dryer model # LER7646JQ0.

Hello avonladywend,


After reading your post I can't help but wonder, have you checked to insure the dryer has 240vac going to it. These dryer's will appear to work almost perfectly with 120vac, with one exception...you guessed it, No Heat !

If you know the location of your homes service panel go to it. Locate the 30amp breaker and turn it all the way "off" and then all the way "on" do not just identify it and assume it is ok because ot doesn't appear "tripped".

This happens all to often when I go to a customers home. The first words out of there mouths is "It's not the breaker I checked" and then I physically check "reset" the breaker ( after verifying the dryer is only receiving 120vac and not 240vac with my meter ) and what do you know, heat !

That could be the problem all it's own. The other thing to look for is a poor connection ( loose and burnt or badly oxidized...or both ) on either of the "hot" cord lines coming into the unit, either the red or black.

Let me know what you find out, but that's where I'd be looking before installing anymore part's.

good luck.

macmarkus :)

Posted on May 01, 2010

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blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: no heat from dryer

Symptom: Electric Dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat.

Any of the following components are more than likely suspect as being bad:

Heating Element
Thermal Cut-Out
Hi-Limit Thermostat

Double check the input power for your dryer FIRST. You should have 220VAC at the receptacle and terminal block.
The dryer will STILL tumble and the timer will still function with a portion of the input power missing as these circuits only require 110VAC.
The heating circuits, however, require 220VAC to function. If one leg of the receptacle voltage is missing the dryer may exhibit "No Heat" like symptoms.
This could also be an indication of a burned or failed power cord.

Continuity checks performed with the dryer UNPLUGGED should indicate a short between the prong end of the cord and the respective lugs at the terminal block.


All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.

If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer.
Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.

If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be for a reason.
You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation.
If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to the dryer failing.
All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail.
This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH.
When these components fail, they must be replaced. Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home.
It should be clear with no kinks or clogs.
If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect.

RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER.

After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer.
This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not.

Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it.
If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely.
I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires.
These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.

Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step.
If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits.
If the dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips.
They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side.

If this is a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet, the lower lick panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge of the panel.

(HINT: placing a block of wood under the front feet of the dryer can make access much easier).

If your dryer has no lower kick panel, you have to remove the entire front panel on these models.
This is accomplished by lifting the dryer top and removing the screws that hold the front panel in place.

NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) - remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component.

NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time.
They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Posted on Sep 21, 2010

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1 Answer

My whirlpool dryer LER4634PQ0Runs but doesnt heat up?


It could be a number of things, but i would start with these first:
THERMAL FUSE.
The thermal fuse is designed to prevent the dryer from overheating. Once a dryer's thermal fuse has blown, it is no longer of any use. If your dryer's fuse is blown, you will have to replace it. Open up your dryer's cabinet and locate its thermal fuse so that you can test it.

There are also a couple of 'thermostats' that could be the problem:
The 'high limit thermostat' is a safety device mounted on the heating chamber and is designed to prevent the dryer from overheating when the exhaust vent is restricted. A restricted vent will cause the high limit thermostat to trip or activate, interrupting the circuit to the heating element or gas valve. The high limit thermostat is not designed to activate repeatedly like a cycling thermostat and will eventually fail causing a no heat symptom. Disconnect the power to the dryer and check the thermostat for continuity with a multi-meter. If there is no continuity then it will need to be replaced and the restricted vent system corrected as well.
OR:
Cycling thermostats control the temperature inside the dryer drum. They are designed to "cycle" the heating element on and off to maintain the correct amount of heat. Cycling thermostats are normally located on the blower housing or elsewhere in the internal airflow ducting. Over time, the cycling thermostat can become defective. Disconnect the power to the dryer and check the thermostat for continuity with a multi-meter.
I hope this helps you fix the problem.

Dec 02, 2013 | Whirlpool LER4634PQ Electric Dryer

1 Answer

My whirlpool dryer comes on and runs good but it wont get hot can you tell me whats the problem


Hello there and welcome to fixya there are several things that could make this dryer not heat up
Here are the most common things

Thermal Fuse

If the dryer doesn\'t heat, but the drum
turns, check the thermal fuse(s). The thermal fuse protects the dryer
from overheating and helps to prevent fires. If the thermal fuse is
blown, it will have to be replaced.




Enter your model number to see parts for your dryer.

Help me find my model number


Gas Valve Solenoid

The gas valve has two or more electric
solenoids which open the valve to let the gas flow into the burner
assembly. If the dryer doesn\'t heat one or more of the solenoids may be
defective. If the igniter glows for 90 seconds but the burner flame
doesn\'t light, replace these coils as a set.


Dryer Igniter


If the dryer doesn\'t heat, the igniter might
be burned out. Check the igniter for continuity with an ohm meter. Dryer
igniters burn out over time, similar to a light bulb.


Heating Element

The heating element on an electric dryer can
burn out over time. If the dryer doesn\'t heat, the element should be
checked for continuity. The heating element cannot be repaired and must
be replaced if defective.


Heating Element Assembly

the heating element assembly on an electric
dryer can burn out over time. If the dryer doesn\'t heat, the element
assembly should be checked for continuity. The heating element assembly
cannot be repaired and must be replaced if defective.

Flame Sensor



Gas dryers have a flame sensor to detect the
heat given off by the flame. If the dryer doesn\'t heat, the flame sensor
might be defective. Check the flame sensor for continuity. This is not
as common as a burned out igniter or thermal fuse.


High Limit Thermostat


Although not common, if the dryer doesn\'t
heat the high limit thermostat can be defective. It can be checked for
continuity. If the thermostat is "open" the dryer doesn\'t heat.


Cycling Thermostat




The cycling thermostat regulates the
temperature of the air in the dryer. If the dryer doesn\'t heat it may be
caused by a defective cycling thermostat. This is not common.


Main Control Board

The main control board is normally not at
fault when the dryer doesn\'t heat. Check all of the other components in
this troubleshooting guide before replacing the main control board. The
main control board cannot be tested easily and must be replaced if it is
defective.


Timer
The timer is normally not at fault if the
dryer doesn\'t heat. In many situations where timers are replaced they
end up being returned. Check all of the more common components in this
troubleshooting guide before replacing the timer

Oct 14, 2013 | Dryers

1 Answer

I have a Whirlpool electric dryer M/ WEP5300o that will not heat. I have replaced the Cycling Thermostat, High limit thermostat, Thermal fuse and heating element. It still doesn't heat. There are


If you have fuses on your electric panel it normally uses 2 fuses, 1 for electric power 1 for heat. The same may be true on the circuit board panel check this to eliminate this possibility

Feb 02, 2013 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

I have a Kenmore Series 70 Dryer and I changed the thermal fuse got hot for a few minutes the model #110.74722400


The cycling thermostat must also be replaced when replacing the thermal fuse. The cycling thermostat's failure to cycle off the heating element results in overheating of the dryer which consequently blows the thermal fuse open.

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Replacing only the thermal fuse should the dryer stops running and fails to start will result in its premature blowing or even the thermal cut-out (cut-off) located on the heater duct. Like the cycling thermostat, the high-limit thermostat must also be replaced once the thermal cut-out blows open. Refer to the parts diagram in the link below and look for item numbers 31(thermal cut-off), 34(hi-limit thermostat), 39(thermal fuse), and 41(cycling thermostat.

Kenmore Series 70 Electric Dryer (110.74722400) Bulkhead Parts

Aug 21, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

Sensor light comes on when you push the start button but does not start spinning


This is a problem commonly caused by a blown thermal fuse due to a faulty thermistor or cycling thermostat depending on the model of the dryer. The thermal fuse is located on the blower housing and wired in series with the motor. The motor cannot therefore run when the thermal fuse blows open and no dryer functions works.

Unplug the dryer then remove the bottom panel and the lint duct and check continuity of the thermal fuse. You can also bypass the thermal fuse for troubleshooting purposes. Check for blocked lint filter and restricted vent system if the thermal fuse is indeed blown then replace it including the thermistor/cycling thermostat. Click on the link below for detailed troubleshooting of this common problem.

Kenmore Elite and Whirlpool Duet Dryers Not Starting

Jul 19, 2011 | Whirlpool GEW9250 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Model RED4440sqO; will not run. Repaced both 30


Remove the rear panel on the blower housing there is a cycling thermostat (part number 3387134) with internal bias heater and a thermal fuse (part number 3392519). The latter is wired in series with the motor which will cause the motor or the dryer as a whole not to start or run when it has failed. Grab a volt-ohmmeter and set the scale to R X 1 then disconnect a wire from the thermal fuse and check its continuity. Replace the thermal fuse should it read open including the cycling thermostat.

Most likely the motor thermal overload has failed if there's power to the dryer and the thermal fuse replaced but the dryer still doesn't run.

May 24, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

Thermal Fuse Blows


This is usually caused by a clog in the venting. If your vent is clear I would replace the cycling thermostat for a free video on checking these components go to www.appliancehelponline.com/servicemanual.html
The cycling thermostat tells the dryer when it has reached it's high and low temperatures.
Hope this helps

Mar 21, 2010 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

Our Whirlpool dryer GGQ8831 dries too hot, even on the extra low setting. I do not use the sensor to dry clothes anymore, either. We don't know if it's due to the ductwork (possible inadequate air flow) or...


You most likely need to replace the cycling thermostat located on you duct inside the dryer. If you continue to use like it is, the high limit will end up going out. When it does the dryer will stop working al together. There are two that you need. If you go to parts select.com. enter your model #. It will bring you unit up. Click on Bulkhead parts picture on right. you will need part number 42 and 43. These are cycling thermostats. One is a lower heat and the other is the medium and high heat. what you running on at this time is the thermal cut off. When is goes bad it will put the thermal fuse out, cutting the whole machine off. I hope this helps. No to worry, these are common parts that go out from time to time.

Oct 10, 2009 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

MODEL GE/GQ9858J dryer runs about 5 min. or


dryer was working with codes for 5 to 10 min now there is no heat at all but will stay running?

Aug 02, 2009 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer runs but will not heat. Replaced fuse and


your cycling thermostat needs changed too. the thermal fuse is your last safety measure that goes, which means your cycling thermostat is not shutting down the heat element once it detects the right temp hot air in the blower housing so it let the heat element glow until either the high-limit sensor shuts the heat down or the thermal fuse blows. Change the cycling thermostat and good luck

Mar 06, 2009 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

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