Question about Whirlpool Dryers
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If your element is operating and drawing about 20 amps when on, your problem may be the thermostat (temperature dial) or the moisture sensor (if applicable). My dryer has 2 heating elements.
Posted on Oct 15, 2007
SOURCE: whirlpool dryer LGR5636PQ0
I replaced the heating element and had the old one checked and had the thermastat's checked as well and it still does the same thing, will not blow hot air and will not cut off when cycle is supose to be finished, what should I do?
Posted on Feb 21, 2008
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.
Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.(Thermal cut-off)
Posted on Aug 24, 2009
After reading your post I can't help but wonder, have you checked to insure the dryer has 240vac going to it. These dryer's will appear to work almost perfectly with 120vac, with one exception...you guessed it, No Heat !
If you know the location of your homes service panel go to it. Locate the 30amp breaker and turn it all the way "off" and then all the way "on" do not just identify it and assume it is ok because ot doesn't appear "tripped".
This happens all to often when I go to a customers home. The first words out of there mouths is "It's not the breaker I checked" and then I physically check "reset" the breaker ( after verifying the dryer is only receiving 120vac and not 240vac with my meter ) and what do you know, heat !
That could be the problem all it's own. The other thing to look for is a poor connection ( loose and burnt or badly oxidized...or both ) on either of the "hot" cord lines coming into the unit, either the red or black.
Let me know what you find out, but that's where I'd be looking before installing anymore part's.
Posted on May 01, 2010
Testimonial: "power good. cords good. what next?"
SOURCE: no heat from dryer
Symptom: Electric Dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat.
Any of the following components are more than likely suspect as being bad:
Double check the input power for your dryer FIRST. You should have 220VAC at the receptacle and terminal block.
The dryer will STILL tumble and the timer will still function with a portion of the input power missing as these circuits only require 110VAC.
The heating circuits, however, require 220VAC to function. If one leg of the receptacle voltage is missing the dryer may exhibit "No Heat" like symptoms.
This could also be an indication of a burned or failed power cord.
Continuity checks performed with the dryer UNPLUGGED should indicate a short between the prong end of the cord and the respective lugs at the terminal block.
All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.
If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer.
Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.
If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be for a reason.
You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation.
If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to the dryer failing.
All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail.
This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH.
When these components fail, they must be replaced. Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home.
It should be clear with no kinks or clogs.
If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect.
RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER.
After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer.
This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not.
Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it.
If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely.
I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires.
These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.
Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step.
If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits.
If the dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips.
They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side.
If this is a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet, the lower lick panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge of the panel.
(HINT: placing a block of wood under the front feet of the dryer can make access much easier).
If your dryer has no lower kick panel, you have to remove the entire front panel on these models.
This is accomplished by lifting the dryer top and removing the screws that hold the front panel in place.
NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:
Heating Element (located inside heater box) - remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.
Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.
Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.
If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component.
NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time.
They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.
Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
Posted on Sep 21, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Dec 02, 2013 | Whirlpool LER4634PQ Electric Dryer
Oct 14, 2013 | Dryers
Feb 02, 2013 | Whirlpool Dryers
Aug 21, 2011 | Dryers
Jul 19, 2011 | Whirlpool GEW9250 Electric Dryer
May 24, 2010 | Dryers
Mar 21, 2010 | Whirlpool Dryers
Oct 10, 2009 | Whirlpool Dryers
Aug 02, 2009 | Whirlpool Dryers
Mar 06, 2009 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer
33 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!