Question about Washing Machines
The most common cause of the symptoms you just described is a lid switch malfunction or lid strike (actuator) problem. Symptoms may include, filling and stopping on the initial fill cycle, stopping right after the wash cycle, not advancing to rinse or spin cycles, and a wash tub that may not drain.
The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike" or "Actuator") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are tight. Sometimes these screws will loosen, causing the lid switch make intermittent contact. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:
On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because it does NOT have a lid strike (actuator) and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This type of switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator rod by bending it slightly.
NOTE: You do not have to drain or bail the water from the washer tub to perform this repair. Once a defective lid switch is replaced, the washer should drain normally.
Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:
The first three sites on the list, include helpful exploded view parts illustrations to assist you with locating and properly identifying any parts you may need. The lid switch and associated components are usually listed under the "Top and Cabinet" parts listing.
NOTE: Banging or slamming the lid can actually cause more harm than good. These switches are fragile and can break easily in this manner.
The average price of a replacement lid switch is about $20 - $30 if you perform the repair yourself. The lid strike (if equipped) usually costs less than $5. Prices will vary between sites so shop and compare. If you have questions, or need additional assistance, please post back and let me know. This is a very simple repair that you can easily perform without the assistance of a repairman.
The part numbers for the model you have listed are as follows: LID SWITCH 3949247, LID STRIKE (Actuator) 358684. If you have questions, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.
NOTE: If this advice does not help you enough, repairclinic.com has a Repair Manual you can order to assist you with all your repairs. The part number is 1170635 and is priced at about $20.
Searspartsdirect.com also has a repair manual for about the same price. Part number 4314044L. I hope this information is helpful to you
Posted on Mar 31, 2011
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
Here's a link to this great service
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Tips for a great answer:
Nov 02, 2012 | Whirlpool Washing Machines
Sep 11, 2012 | Whirlpool Washing Machines
Aug 19, 2011 | Roper Washing Machines
Jun 14, 2011 | Whirlpool LSR7333 Top Load Washer
Sep 25, 2009 | Washing Machines
Aug 06, 2009 | Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9549L Top...
Apr 24, 2009 | Washing Machines
Apr 24, 2009 | Washing Machines
Mar 29, 2009 | Whirlpool Washing Machines
Oct 14, 2008 | Whirlpool LSQ9610L Top Load Washer
Jun 22, 2018 | Washing Machines
Jun 21, 2018 | Haier Washing Machines
176 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!