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The washer will not spin it just keeps going slowly and will not time down

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Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
Unfortunately you have not told us the make and model!
I would gently suggest as a first step (no promises!) that you clean the drain motor lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Here are my complete guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)

If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and most are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play!

It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. If it doesn't work then the motor is malfunctioning!

Hope the filter is the problem and good luck!
John C

Posted on Mar 30, 2011


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The door is closed good. However, the washer will not spin.

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Some washer (like mine) will momentarily shut off when it senses this, and restart when the basket slows down enough to make the out of balance condition go away, unless it starts in again, then it'll shut down again and restart.
If this is what is happening, the washer keeps shutting off and restarting, making it appear that the basket is spinning slowly, as it never gets up to full speed.
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Will wash clothes but not spin them dry

This is a little about how your washer spins. When time to go into a spin cycle, the motor is already running and the washer is in a pump out mode. The timer advances and closes contacts in timer that make electrical circuit through the lid switch to the spin solenoid. This is normally done through a gray wire from timer to lid switch and then a red wire from lid switch to the spin solenoid. A white common wire completes the circuit. This spin solenoid is on a magnet bar with the agitate solenoid also on it. You will see it under the machine moving back and forth as the motor runs. This magnet bar is called a wigwag in the appliance trade. When the spin solenoid is energized, it sucks a plunger pinned to the spin cam bar up into the solenoid. The plunger pin goes to a different level in the cam bar and pulls it in the direction of the motor and keeps it there until spin cycle is over. When cam bar is pulled back, it allows the clutch to drop down and engage the spinning center pulley attached to the spin tube. The spin tube turns, the wash basket is locked to spin tube, therefore it spins. Now for your question. What goes wrong?
1. The solenoid can be open. Watch it and if it doesn't **** the plunger up, check with an ohm meter. If solenoid good, assume no power to it.
2. No power to solenoid. You will need to check the circuit from timer, through lid switch, to solenoid. Most likely place seems to be lid switch. check it.
3. The wires coming to the solenoid are constantly moving back and forth as the machine runs. This puts tension on the wires and they tend to break inside the insulation of the wire. To check for break internally in the wire, read from one end of it to other with ohm meter. Another way is to grasp wire (unplug the washer) about 8 inches back from end and pull hard on end of wire. If broken inside, it will pull apart and stretch insulation. Replace wire. There are mechanical operations that can give problems, but most spin problems are in the area that I just addressed.
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