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I need to no which hole the throttle wire goes in, on top of the carb throttle valve?

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Yes, typically the throttle rod goes in from the top, but that is not required, what is required is free movement, meaning no binding, during throttle travel.

Posted on Mar 30, 2011

  • Mike Mar 30, 2011

    Look closely for tell tale wear marks on the connection lever....

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Diagram distributor


Wide open as in wide open throttle?? You mean the engine is racing? Something is wrong with the throttle controls, or the throttle valve in the carburetor may be sticking open. Look down the carb throat. At its base will be the throttle valves-"butterfly" valves just like the choke valve on top of carb. The throttle valve should be closed at rest, or at idle, or when gas pedal is not moved. Rotate the throttle lever on the carburetor by hand (when gas pedal is pressed down, the throttle is rotated). The throttle valve at the bottom of the carb should open and close with the throttle lever.
If the valve is sticking, spray some carburetor cleaner down it, and spray the outside clean, too. Work the throttle back and forth to make sure it is free to move.
For a high idle, have the carburetor adjusted. Timing should be checked, too-that can cause a high idle, but wouldn't cause it to go wide open.
Let us know what you find. Good luck.

Dec 07, 2013 | Ford Ranger Cars & Trucks

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EGR Flow problems


I am assuming that you vehicle is equipped with a 3.1L V-6 since you didn't mention it. (If this is not correct, please post a comment and let me know.)

You most likely have clogged-up EGR ports.
You will need an EGR-to-manifold gasket, a throttle-body base gasket, a wire coat hanger and a spray can of carb and choke cleaner.
EGR Valve gasket: FEL PRO part number 70804 - $5.99 at AutoZone
Throttle Body Base Gasket FEL PRO part number 61053 - $1.49

Remove the EGR valve and the throttle body. Cut the wire coat hanger so you have a piece about 8" long. Use the piece of wire to scrape and pick through the carbon buil-up in the port that goes between the EGR valve and the intake manifold. You can work from both ends by going at an angle through the hole in the manifold where the throttle body mounts and from the other side where the EGR valve mounts. Once you have broken through all the carbon, clean out as much as you can with the piece of wire.

NOTE: Try to not allow this stuff to go into the intake manifold area - engine valve damage can occur if this stuff gets stuck in a valve. It may be a good idea to stuff a rag in the intake just beyond the work area to catch the debris. - DON"T FORGET TO TAKE THE RAG BACK OUT BEFORE YOU RE-INSTALL THE THROTTLE BODY!

After most of the carbon is removed, spray the carb cleaner through the port to finish cleaning it out. After you are satisfied that it is as clean as it is going to get, reassemble the EGR and throttle body. Clear your fault codes and retest the vehicle.

This should do the trick.

Jun 16, 2011 | 2001 Chevrolet Lumina

1 Answer

Mower will not run in high speed idles at one speed push throttle it runs at the same speed then stalls out whith lots of gas in the carb


Your carbs main jet is most likely blocked. When the throttle goes off the idle jet to the main jet there isnt enough fuel flow and the engine stalls.

You need to removed the main jet and run a small piece of wire through the main jet to clear it. This is a good time to look at the inside of the float bowl to see if you have excessive water, rust or dirt accumulating that is a sign you should clean and drain the fuel tank and lines as well. The main jet is actually the bolt that holds the fuel bowl on the bottom of the carb! You need to look very close at the jet near the top of the threads to see the little whole there and clean it. A wire brush to clean off the threads and fine piece of wire strand to clean the hole will do the trick!

If you dont have a bowl type carb you will need to remove the carb from the fuel tank and locate and clean the inlet screen and main jet and then remove the fuel tank and clean it out too.

Good luck and be careful.

Jul 16, 2010 | Briggs & Stratton Garden

1 Answer

How do I clean the carborator on my 1994 kawasaki ninja zx600-c


Carburator Theory and Tuning
carb_jet_usage1a.jpg

For some reason everyone seems to think tuning a carb is just real easy. Change a jet or two and boom, your there. Yeah, right ! There are quite literally millions and millions of jet combinations. A rough check on Bing carbs shows there are at least 13,860,000 different combinations of jets. If you are going to change carbs you'd better be prepared to spend some time and money on the job.
venturi1a.jpgmainjet_1a.jpgIf you look at a carburetor, you will notice a rather large hole going from one side to the other. This is called a Venturi. Air passes into the engine through this hole (Venturi). As the velocity of the air entering the carb (and then the engine) increases, it's pressure decreases, creating a low pressure or vacuum in the venturi. This vacuum moves around in the venturi, as the throttle is opened, and sucks gasoline through the different jets in the carb. The gas then mixes with the air going through the venturi. The way the jets are made causes the fuel to vaporize as it goes into the venturi. Where the jets are placed in the carb and where the jet's outlet is located in the venturi, determines what part of the throttle opening that jet controls. The idle jet system (comprised of pilot air jet, pilot fuel jet and pilot fuel screw) controls from 0% to about 25% of the throttle opening. The throttle valve controls 0% to 35% of the throttle opening. The needle jet and jet needle control from 15% to 80% of the throttle opening and the main jet controls 60% to 100%. This means that when you open the throttle about one eighth of the way open, all of the gas/air mixture going into your engine is controlled by the idle jet. As you can see, the different jets over lap the operating range of each other. That is, the jet needle starts to effect things before the effect of the idle jet ends. This is something to remember when working on carbs... everything is interconnected. Change one thing and it will effect other things.
OK, let's go over the different systems in the carb and see what they do.
  1. Fuel level. The fuel level is controlled by the fuel floats and the fuel float valve. The floats are hollow or made of something that will float on gasoline, such as cork. Part of the float presses against the float valve, sometimes called a needle and seat. Most times the part of the float that touches the float valve needle is bendable so you can adjust the level of the fuel in the floatbowel. All plastic floats are not adjustable. If this level is way too high, gas can leak out the carb overflow tube or into the engine. If fuel gets into the engine it will thin out the engine oil, ruining it's ability to lubricate. This will, sooner or later, blow up your engine ! If a full tank of gas in the evening turns into a half tank by morning, check your oil. If it's thin and smells like gas, change it and replace your float valve and/or check your fuel level. If the oil is OK, check under the overflow tube. If it's OK, then check where you are parking your bike 'cuse someone is walking away with your gas ! If your fuel level is just a bit high, the mixture will tend to be a bit rich. If it's low, the mixture will tend to be a bit lean. This is because a high level takes less vacuum to **** fuel into the engine and a low level takes more vacuum to do the same.


  2. Pilot or idle jet system. The idle jet controls the idle and on up to quarter throttle, give or take a bit. On some carbs, like Mikuni there is an air jet too. In conjunction with the idle jet there is an idle jet air screw. This screw leans or richens the fuel mixture for a smooth idle and on up to one quarter throttle. From the idle jet, there are little passages cast into the carb that lead to holes just in front of the throttle valve or plate. There can be just one hole or there can be several, depending on the carb design. They effect the mixture as long as the vacuum, in the venturi, is over them. As the throttle opens further, the vacuum moves to the needle jet and jet needle.
  3. The Throttle Valve. The big slide that opens and closes your throttle has a bevel angle cut in one side of the big round (can be flat, too) slide, toward the air cleaner. This angle comes in several sizes and helps control the fuel mixture from idle to about 35% open throttle.
  4. Needle Jet. This jet doesn't really even look like a jet, but it is ! It controls the fuel mixture from 15% to 60% open throttle. It sets in the center of the carb, right over the main jet.
  5. Jet Needle. This is the needle that rides in the throttle slide and goes into the needle jet. This needle controls the fuel mixture from 20% to 80% open throttle. It can come in many different sized tapers. Sometimes, one needle can have several tapers on it. The top end of the needle has grooves cut in it, usually five, and you can move the little clip on the end up or down to lean (down) or richen (up) the mixture. Most late model bikes have needles with only one groove cut in them. This is so you can't richen the mixture, thereby keeping the EPA happy.
  6. Main Jet. This jet controls the fuel mixture from 60% to 100% open throttle.

Apr 16, 2010 | 1994 kawasaki ZZR 600

1 Answer

My 84 YZ250 had the throttle lock up - like full throttle with no change by throttle grip - had to turn gas off at shutoff valve to get it to stop - any idea .......... other question - is the throttle...


There should be a small air gap at the bottom between the slide and the venturi. A couple things to check are (we'll start easy and progress from there):

Remove the carb from the air box and the intake boot, but do not remove the top screw cap or cable from the carb. Once you are holding the carb in your hand, twist the throttle and see if the slide moves up and down freely. Does it return to the botton of the venturi on it's own when the throttle is released (or you twist the throttle forward)? If not, and the slide is sticking open, it is allowing more fuel/air in which is the problem. There is a spring under the top cap which should push the slide back down when you release the throttle. If it's sticking open, it's either a broken cable (you wouldn't see the slide go up and down when you twist the throttle if it's broken), or an unlubricated cable, a piece of debris in the carb between the slide and the carb body, or the spring is whacked. Unscrew the top cap, slowly pull the cap, spring, and slide up and check the spring. You can't miss it, it's a big one right under the cap. If it looks ok, check for debris on the side of the slide and in the carb body to see if there is sand/dirt causing the slide to stick open. If all of this checks out ok, then check the cable for free movement when you twist the throttle. If it's sticky, lube the cable. If it's ok, move to the next step.

On the bottom of the slide you will see the jet needle. It's long, skinny and tapers at the bottom. Try moving the needle up and down. It should be pretty snug. If the "c" clip that holds the needle came off, it will sometimes allow the needle to remain open which will cause this problem too. If the needle is ok (in place nice and solid and doesn't move up and down freely), then go to the next step:

Remove the float bowl and check to see if the float, float valve (under the back edge of the float where the float attaches), and seat (where the valve rests in the carb body) are all in good shape. If the float has a hole in it, or the tang holding the valve clip is bent, it will cause the float to drop down lower in the bowl, which opens the valve and allows more fuel in. Also check that the clip that connects the valve to the float did not come loose. If there is a problem with the float or float valve allowing too much fuel into the bowl, the excess fuel runs into the engine (via vacuum when the engine is running) and will cause the problem you are seeing. In this instance though, there is normally excess fuel coming out of the overflow hole on the side of the carb when the bike is not running and the fuel is on. If your problem just happened once and you shut the fuel off (and haven't turned it back on yet), put the float bowl back on, reinstall the carb and try opening the petcock (gas shut off valve). Let it sit for a few hours or overnight with the gas on. If the float or float valve is bad, you should see gas drip out of the overflow on the side of the carb. You may not have seen this if the problem just started happening while the engine was running. It was sucking the excess fuel into the engine causing it to rev wide open. When you shut off the gas flow, it prevented having the excess fuel drip out the overflow hole and letting you know it was a float problem. Hope this helps.

Nov 19, 2009 | Yamaha YZ 250 Motorcycles

1 Answer

Governor and Carb spring linkage


the solid wire link goes from the top hole in the governor rod to the carb and the spring goes from the lower hole on the rod to the throttle plate where the cable attaches

Nov 01, 2009 | Troy Bilt 5.5hp Self Propelled Mower

1 Answer

I have a 9hp Tecumseh engine on my Sears chipper vac. I rebuilt the carb and forgot how the governor and throttle linkage hooks up. Could you send me a diagram showing what holes these linkages go in? The...


I will try again here.
1 wire link from the top hole in the governor arm to the throttle on the carb. There should also be a wire link with a spring that goes from the Governor arm to the speed control handle.

Oct 21, 2009 | Craftsman 6.5 Hp Chipper Vac

1 Answer

OBD code P04001 Insufficient flow, I changed the


did you clean the EGR passages? take the valve back off. one hole will have exhaust, the other should have strong vacuum.ususally the passage gets plugged with carbon, from the valve to where it goes into the intake manifold. you may take a wire and carb cleaner to clean the passage.

Oct 20, 2009 | 1997 Chevrolet Lumina

2 Answers

Where can i find the idle control valve on a 1987 cutlass supreme


It sits on the side of the carburetor. It has a wire going to the top of the silver barrel type valve and goes to the linkage on the carb. It is also called an Anti-Dieseling Valve. If this does not engage, the car will not start.

Oct 10, 2009 | 1989 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

1 Answer

I need to clean the carb on my 06' CRF 250R


close gas valve, pull gas lines of carb and drain in jar. Unscrew clamp to air intake, unscrew top of carb that throttle cable goes in to, pull out top with cable and needle and set aside. Now unbolt carb and pull it off.
Now take the 4 bolts from bottom of carb.

Soak floats and entire carb in a pan of solvent for about an hour

May 09, 2009 | 2005 Honda CRF 250 R

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