I bought a JBL Venue Sub12 online in early April 2008. The morning of August 3rd I turned it on and it quit working after about 10 minutes. The power light on the back wasn't on so I tried plugging the sub into different wall outlets to see if would work, nothing happened. My dad, who knows some electrical stuff, tested it and said the switch and power cord are both bringing in power at about 110v. One side of the power is bringing in 110v but absolutely nothing is coming out the other side of the power supply. Nothing is melted or burnt. JBL won't send me a new power supply because I'm not a service center. Is it the power supply for sure and where's the best place to get a new power supply?
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the change from red to green is simply the auto sense of the input signal happening . have you ck the simple things first , like the volume control (im sure YOu didn't touch it , but maybe someone else did) , did the input jack sustain some internal dammge that might not be seen from the outside ? how did you ck the speaker ? did you sub it out with another known working one (doesn't have to be same size to try it) ???
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I would normally ask here "with or without signal going into it"
If it's making noises with no signal, the amplifier needs servicing
if it's when there is signal present, it could be the amp OR the speaker itself.
The speaker of course can be replaced with almost any 12" woofer of the same handling capacity.
Again, if it's the amp, the amp will need to be serviced.
To find out which is the issue in scenario 2, unscrew and remove the woofer and temporarily connect another speaker, putting a low to moderate signal (careful you don't blow the speaker you have temporarily connected). If you get the same clicking/noises etc. then the amp is the fault. If not, the speaker is the fault.
if the schematics i have is the same as yours and that the +15V and -15V supply are present, then i suggest u check diodes D3 and D4 that are connected back to back. if anyone of them are shorted, the system will forever be in standby.
I'm fairly sure this is a power supply problem; less likely, a shorted power output stage which may be a largish integrated circuit; this last one would probably be costly to replace.
A failed diode or filter capacitor in the supply can cause this by either (the diode) allowing unrectified AC to pass or (the capacitor) poor DC filtering of the rectified AC.
Neither of these parts is expensive.
Diodes can be in a variety of different packages so giving guidance on these is tough.
Capacitors of the type likely used as the main filters in your power supply will be cylindrical objects between 1/2" (12-13mm) to 1 1/2" (~37mm) in diameter and between 1/2" to 3" (~75mm) tall.
Caps are in aluminum cases with shrink wrap that will have values given in microfarads (µF) and VDC (Volts DC).
Often, when they fail, the exposed tops will bulge visibly as a sign of their failure and sometimes they will leak from the bottom rubber seal and there will be traces of a white deposit on the board around them.
If you see such signs, replace them.
Checking power supply diodes could be done with any multimeter but unless the electrolytic capacitor(s) fails catastrophically as above, the main filter caps would need to be verified for value and losses with a capacitance meter which is too expensive to buy for home use.
A plain-jane digital multimeter can cost <$20 US and would be useful for many other tests around your home and car as well.