Question about Fisher and Paykel 24 in. DD-602 Built-in Dishwasher

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Fisher Paykel DD602 burning smell

I bought this dishdrawer used and have been able to replace the drain hose and the lid with no problems (had f1 code). It has been running beautifully for 6 months and all of a sudden there was a burning smell coming from the dishdrawer last night. There were no error codes and it finished the wash (I would have shut it off if I had realized it was the dishwasher making the smell). I took the front panel off and there is a smell not in the control board but the pump i think. There is a red light behind where I would put the jet dry in. Does this mean I have to replace the pump?

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  • Anonymous Dec 06, 2008

    I know this isn't a solution but can I ask you where you found your used dishdrawer?

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The red light is the indicatior light for the rinse aid (jet dry) when you look at the fill cap, the center of it will light up when you need to refill. there is a float inside that blocks the light when full, and uncovers the light when the rinse aid is low.

Posted on Nov 28, 2009

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What is the Jet Dry? if you mean rinse aid, then no this light means that you need to put in more rinse aid
Mat

Posted on Sep 24, 2009

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Why does a fisher and paykel DD-603 randomly gives f1 code even when not in use


Fault code F1 can come from a number of different sources and can remain on as long as the machine has power (does not need to be operating). Once a fault is repaired it can be cleared by pressing the Power button. If the fault is still present then it will not
clear. The service manual says: The faults are displayed in the LCD as one of 5 F (fatal) faults or 1 U (user) fault along with the symbol of a spanner. A fatal fault will usually require the assistance of a qualified service person...

Fault Code Description:
Fault Code: F1
LED Display: Rinse LED
Fault: The flood switch has been activated for more than six seconds
Possible Causes
_ Inlet hose to inlet valve connection loose
_ Inlet valve body leak
_ Damage to the fill or drain hoses
_ Heater plate damage (chipped enamel)
_ Seals/O Rings (pinched, contaminated or poor join)
_ Dispenser (seal, diverter valve or weld leak)
_ Lid area (lid motors not functioning correctly, lid off yoke or foreign object interfering with lid seal)

Fault Code Problem Solving:
    1.Question: Is there a F1 on both displays? Yes: Go to Question 2. No: If power fails to the bottom tub it will cause thetop tub to go F1. Test heater plate.
    2.Question: Has a flood occurred? (N.B. The flood may have dried up) Yes: Go to Question 3. No: Go to Question 13
    3.Is the lid sealing on the tub correctly? Yes: Go to Question 5. No: Go to Question 4
    4.Question: Are the lid actuators functioning correctly? Yes: Go to Question 5. No: Check the lid actuators are assembled correctly on the slides and yokes. Check the plugs on the RFI board and the terminals on the lid motors. If the lid actuators look slow replace them.
    5.Question: Is the water level in the tub high? Yes: Go to Question 6. No: Go to Question 8
    6.Question: Is the water inlet valve leaking? Yes: Replace inlet valve. No: Go to Question 7
    7.Question: Is the DishDrawer priming correctly? Yes: Go to Question 12. Go to Question 8
    8.Question: Is the spray arm split? Yes: Replace spray arm. No: Go to Question 9
    9.Question: Is the spray arm running freely? Yes: Go to Question 10. No: Check the rotor is running freely, clear of foreign objects and fitted correctly. Make sure the wash impeller is not slipping off the rotor shaft.
    10.Question: Is water leaking from a split inlet or drain hose? Yes: Replace split inlet or drain hose. No: Go to Question 11
    11.Question: Is water leaking around the heater plate 'O' rings? Yes: Replace or refit 'O' rings. No: Go to Question 12
    12.Question: Is the drain hose blocked? Yes: Clear drain hose of blockage. No:Go to Question 13
    13.Question: Is there condensation or foreign matter around the flood switch PCB? Yes: Clear flood sensor of condensation or foreign matter. No: Go to Question 14
    14.After clearing water does the F1 fault code still activate? Yes: Replace Chassis RFI board. No: Go to Question 15
    15.Refer to Bulletin DW028 DW025, 028, 031, 040

Sep 06, 2014 | Fisher and Paykel 24 in. DD603H W Built-in...

1 Answer

F1 Error code


F1 is flood error. basically water has arrived at the bottom board. you can unplug the dishdrawer, remove the bottom drawer and dry the board at the bottom, maybe with a hair dryer carefully. this will reset the fault, but this is a fault that may appear again. replace the actuators that close the lid of the drawer that is leaking (look for signs of water running our of one of the drawers).

Jul 13, 2014 | Fisher and Paykel DishDrawer DS605FDSM...

1 Answer

Dishwasher keep beeping F1 and F5


F5 is the fast and rinse LED
It simply means the lid motror current is to high during the start - The lid is jammed up or down. Or the electronic controller has failed!!

Dec 29, 2013 | Fisher and Paykel DishDrawer DS605FDSM...

2 Answers

Our fisher and paykel dishdrawer won't wash. It comes up with F1 and flashing light on control panel.


the dynamo dishwashing stuff has caused foaming which reached the base of the dishdrawer unit causing the flood switch to trip. This gives F1 error.
Not sure how much foaming has occured.

Best to turn off power and take power cable out from socket. then empty the drawer using towels. pull out the bottom drawer and wait a day or so to let the foam disappear from the bottom of dishwasher (under the bottom drawer). Connect the power and see if F1 had gone. If not, you need more work. Post a comment based on the above suggestion and I will guide you further if required. Always use Finish dishwasher power only (recommended quantity) as the drawers are small and don't need much detergent.

Dec 27, 2012 | Fisher Paykel Dishwashers

1 Answer

Dishdrawers display F1 fault, what do I do?


The flood switch at the base of the dishwasher (under the bottom drawer) has triggered. This means water has collected at the base of the dishwasher housing. This can happen for many reasons, leaking drawer lid seal, broken drain hose, broken water inlet hose, etc.

You will need to find the source of the leak. Also incorrect detergent can cause foaming which triggers the flood switch.
Turn the mains power to dishwasher off and take the cable out of the socket. You will have to find a way to take the bottom drawer out. Usually it needs a plyer to pull out the plastic fasteners one on each side. Slowly take the front cover out and lift the drawer off the rail and bring it out.Make sure the controller or display panel do not fall out. Use masking tape to hold these in place. Leave it on the floor without tugging too much on the cable and hoses. Dry the base with towels and hair dryer. The flood switch is mounted on a circuit board located in the base.

Put everything back and conne power and try again.
Hoses need to be replaced if these are source. Also lid seal can be replaced if this is the cause.
Use recommended detergent. (no power balls) or tablets.
good luck.

Dec 15, 2012 | Fisher Paykel Fisher & Paykel DishDrawer...

1 Answer

Hello, We have a Fisher & Paykel dishwasher m# dd602 znwn showing After we fixed a hole in the drain line an F1 code still appears and the pump keeps running. What should I do from here?


F1 means that your dishwashers have flooded. You can download the video in the link below to see how to get rid of the error and fix your dish drawer for numerous other problems. If your drawer is noisy you may want to replace the rotors at this time as well.

Appliance Repair Video

Order Fisher Paykel Rotor in this link if needed

Mar 17, 2011 | Fisher and Paykel 24 in. DD-602 Built-in...

1 Answer

What does error F1 mean and is it expensive to fix


Hello there
The f-1 error is comng from the fflood switch meaning it is not recognizng the level of the water in the machine
First thing you need to do is pull the front panel off the drawer, :
Fisher Paykel DD602 dishdrawer with the front panel removed.
With that front panel off, pull the wire harness connectors off the main control board (lower right-hand side) to inspect for junk and debris
If nothing is found
The next step to remove the botton drawer from the unit so so you can inspect the switch itself
In order to do this, You had to remove the wire harness cover on the underside of the drawer.
batch%2010-23-04%200041.jpg
Fisher Paykel DD602 dishdrawer, looking at the underside of one of the drawers with the wire cover plate removed.
With the bottom cover off, unclip the wire harness, fill hose, and drain hose. Then unclip the linkage at the back of the drawer and lifted the drawer off the slider arms. All this to expose the flood switch, shown on the left-hand side of the bottom panel in the picture below:.
batch%2010-23-04%200051.jpg
Fisher Paykel DD602 dishdrawer with the lower drawer removed. The flood switch in mounted on the base, left hand side.
TAKE NOTE OF the positions of the wires on the flood switch and removing them, unclip the switch housing from the base panel. The switch housing contains one switch for each drawer. The switches are wired normally closed (NC) and each switch has three spade connections, so it's important to note where the wires went. With the switch housing out, ohm out both switches and ENSURE THEY CHECK OUT GOOD OR HAVE SOMEBODY DO THIS FOR YOU inspect the contacts and SEE IF they look oxidized or detereorated , evidenced by discoloration.
If it does look discolored clean the contacts as needed now plug in everything as it was originally and put in the drawers than run it to see if it does reappear if not you saved yourself about $300 dollars on having a tech come and do this ok

Nov 23, 2010 | Fisher and Paykel 23 in. DD603H SS...

3 Answers

FP DD603 fills water, stops error 01 crossed faucet symbol


Hi,

I had the opportunity to work on a Fisher & Paykel DD632 dishdrawer a couple days ago. By the way, I am a big fan of Fisher & Paykel equipment--if you ever have the opportunity to work on one, you'll see why. The engineering is elegant in its simplicity. Well-engineered equipment is actually much easier to work on because they have designed serviceability into the product.

Anyway, the problem with this particular dishdrawer was that the top drawer (with an 11 minute wash) was giving an F1 error code after the initial rinse, about five minutes into the cycle. The F1 code indicates an overfill condition. One of the most common causes for an overfill fault is that the dishwasher cannot pump out the dirty water due to a plugged drain hose.

So, I put the dishdrawer into diagnostic mode and tested the fill and pump out functions--everything was peachy. I ran the top drawer in a normal wash cycle and, sho 'nuff, the drawer faulted out on F1 after the first rinse. Well, Houston, we had a problem and it was time for the Samurai to break open a can of whup-*** on this dishdrawer. First thing I did was pull the front panel off the drawer.

Fisher Paykel DD603 dishdrawer with the front panel removed.

With that front panel off, I pulled the wire harness connectors off the main control board (lower right-hand side) to inspect for gook us. None found--my quest continued.

The next step to remove the bottom drawer from the unit so I could inspect the flood switch. In order to do this, I had to remove the wire harness cover on the underside of the drawer. This is what the underside of the dishdrawer looks like with the bottom cover panel removed:

Fisher Paykel DD603 dishdrawer, looking at the underside of one of the drawers with the wire cover plate removed.

With the bottom cover off, I could unclip the wire harness, fill hose, and drain hose. Then I unclipped the linkage at the back of the drawer and lifted the drawer off the slider arms.

After noting the positions of the wires on the flood switch and removing them, I unclipped the switch housing from the base panel. The switch housing contains one switch for each drawer. The switches are wired normally closed (NC) and each switch has three spade connections, so it's important to note where the wires went. With the switch housing out, I could ohm out both switches and both checked good. I inspected the contacts and noticed that one of them was oxidized, evidenced by discoloration.

I had a flash-back to my Navy days and heard Petty Officer (AT1) Crowe's voice in my head, "Here, take this ruby red eraser and clean off them contacts. That'll restore the current flow for that circuit. Good to go, Sailor." You gotta understand, Petty Officer Crowe was my technical guru in the Navy--he taught me many of the practical and theoretical troubleshooting skills that I still use today.

So I cleaned the contacts as instructed by Petty Officer Crowe's mental image in my brain and reassembled the dishdrawer. I ran the top drawer and...no F1 error code! I ran it several more times just to be sure.

OR ,if this is not the case next thing to look for is
If you have problems with a plugged drain hose
Dishwasher Drainology

Your dishwasher sounds like it's working up a storm, draining all that yucky dirty water out, but you open the door and all that dirty water is still there. Houston, we have a problem. OK, grasshopper, go grab you a cold one and hang on for a magical mystery tour into what causes dishwasher draining problems, also called the ancient and mystical art of dishwasher drainology. Let's take 'em one at a time:

* Using Too Much Detergent
Some fancy dishwashers with electronic controls have sensors that detect when the pump is not pumping water. Using too much detergent creates a great head of foam in the dishwasher basin, like pouring a beer too fast into a glass. So if you use too much soap in one of these so-equipped dishwashers, the sensors think the dishwasher is empty and cuts off the pump (For you gadget geeks out there, it senses the pump work by using a sensing resistor in series with the motor main winding.) While we're talking about detergents, that store bought stuff you're using is screwing up your dishwasher
* You Forgot to Remove the Disposal Drain Port Knockout Plug

# This usually only applies to the situation where you just installed a disposal and connected the dishwasher drain hose to the drain port on the disposal. Believe it or not, this happened to me on my first disposal installation job, too...no, not really. But I have seen many a grasshopper stumped by this.
# Drain Solenoid Not Opening
Some brands, notably GE/Hotpoint and Magic Chef, use a drain solenoid to open and close the dishwasher drain port. If this solenoid isn't opening during the drain cycle, could be a bad timer or solenoid.
# Worn Pump Impeller
Other dishwashers, like Whirlpool and KitchenAid, don't use a drain solenoid but instead reverse the motor to drain the basin. One possible reason for poor draining in this type of dishwasher is a worn pump impeller. You usually figure this by elimination...no, not that kind of elimination you dawg! I mean, if all the other suspects listed here check out OK, then you've got a worn pump impeller. The rebuilding kit for this repair is very inexpensive and is a great beer drinking project.
# Kinked or Plugged Drain Hose
Drain hoses can become kinked or crimped from poor installation, stuff being moved around, lots of reasons. It happens.This page on drain hose configuration shows you several approved drain hose layouts. Drain hoses can also get plugged from gookus. Plugs usually occur at the one of the drain ports--either on the dishwasher or at the other end. The best test is to take the drain hose off at the dishwasher and pucker up and blow like a fish. Yep, it can be pretty nasty putting your mouth on that stuff but, hey, that's why we appliance techs make the big money.
# Air Gap Plugged with Gookus

Plumbing codes may require an air gap in your dishwasher drain hose and many houses have 'em. These air gaps do a great job of keeping sewer water from backing up into your dishwasher but they can become a source of problems, too. Sometimes, they'll get plugged with gookus and they'll need to be cleaned out. If it's real bad or corroded, do yourself a favor and install a new air gap kit.

Let me know,if needed further assistance.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

Jul 10, 2010 | Fisher and Paykel 23 in. DD-603SS Built-in...

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