Question about Asko 1385 Dishwasher

3 Answers

Replaced new timer, wax motor, switch fan dry switch, thermostat switch due to recall. Replaced circ pump due to beads from rack falling into the dishwasher and grinding the pump. After all this, the timer does not advance. Saw on another post that if the sensor inide the tube to the level switch is damaged the entire bottom well will need to be replaced. Would a damaged sensor near the well allow the dishwasher to fill with water, but not advance the timer? If so, I know it's not a pleasant job, what steps would you take to replace the well?

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  • cdracos Mar 28, 2011

    This would be acceptable if this were not an Asko. The mechanisms are different, particularly near the well.

  • cdracos Mar 29, 2011

    Thank you for posting. This is on how to repair a level switch. I was searching for guidance on installing an asko well.

  • cdracos Aug 26, 2011

    MacMarcus

    You responded to my post some time back. I'm just returning to the Internet to finish the job that I started in Sept 2010. My dishwasher does not work after putting in may new parts. Some suggested by you. My dishwasher has a a new sensor, new timer, wax motor, switch fan dry switch, and new pump. The dishwasher will fill with water to wash, but does not advance through the cycle. i ordered a new thermostat to see if that will help....

    Will you please respond to my post?

  • cdracos Aug 27, 2011

    Sorry to offend you Macmarkus. That is not my intent. I'm very frustrated.
    The most expensive part "suggested for replacement" was at this post.http://www.fixya.com/support/t6557583-as...

    The wax motor, switch were a recall by asko. The timer was recommended by another expert.

    At this point, I paid for a solution and the machine does not advance.

    What do you suggest the next step to be?

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  • Asko Master
  • 2,605 Answers

Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.

Before I make any assumptions, I'll try and clarify what it is you want to do...or better yet, why you want to change out the sump well. Is it busted ?

**Pardon me for this if much of this has been covered, but I do not have access to any previous post or dialog for some reason.**

When you mentioned (in your words), "Would a damaged sensor near the well allow the dishwasher to fill with water, but not advance the timer?" yes it could...but more likely it would cause the drain pump to run continuously or the unit to overfill every time, or not fill at all.

Here's where I'd focus your attention. The pressure switch is located on the right hand side (from the front) as shown here...Large arrow indicates the switch, the small is the hose which goes to the back of the sump-well.

Replaced new timer, wax motor, switch fan dry - macmarkus_445.jpg
Also something of interest you mentioned was the thermostat you replaced. Which one ? Most of the Asko have a minimum of two thermostat's and usually three as shown by #16, 17 & 18 in this parts illustration.

macmarkus_446.jpg
These are usually in this order...furthest to the back is 30-70C, center is the hi-limit @ 88C and then the closest to the front is rated @ 53-64C.

According to my info from Asko ( I used to be a servicer for Asko from 1997-2005 ) The issue in the past has been this, in regards to timers not advancing...

it has happened that the timer has stopped in the drying sequence. The reason for this is, that the distance between the heater and the bottom over the overheating protection is too small. Then the overheating protection, 88° C, breaks the heating before the drying temperature reaches 70° C and thereby prevents the timer to step forward.


Try this: Adjust the distance between the heater and the bottom to 4 mm.


Let me know if anything here has already been covered and therefor redundant...I hope note. I will watch for your reply.


Regards,


Macmarkus :)

Posted on Mar 29, 2011

  • Mark MacDonald
    Mark MacDonald Aug 26, 2011

    Hello,

    I'm just replying to a post you added to your thread on the Asko dishwasher.

    Of course I will help in any manner I can, but I have to take exception to the statment in your post, "My dishwasher does not work after putting in may new parts. Some suggested by you. My dishwasher has a a new sensor, new timer, wax motor, switch fan dry switch, and new pump."

    I replied on only one occasion (feel free to check your thread, I am Macmarkus as you said) to your initial post and at no time did I suggest replacing anything. You obviously have confused me for another expert. Changing parts as a solution is rarley the way I go about solving problems such as yours..."timer not advancing".

    Certainly I would suggest methods of eliminating possible causes and offer solutions, (as I indeed did) but not replacing such parts as you've mentioned.

    Regards,

    Macmarkus :)

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  • Master
  • 4,323 Answers

Hi

Please check this video to replace the well:


Also check for the float assembly inside the dishwasher. When water is filling your dishwasher, a float rises along with it. As the float reaches a certain threshold level, it shuts off the flow of water, thereby preventing a leak. Sometimes the float can get stuck in the wrong position in your dishwasher, and it can prevent your dishwasher from filling. Sometimes it can happen due to float valve and on other occasions due to float switch. Inspect the water hose coming to the dishwasher for any blockages. If these are fine then it's due to Water Inlet Valve. Use a multimeter and check for the continuity on inlet valve. If you don't get any value on the multimeter then you'll need to replace the water inlet valve assembly. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

Daniel

Posted on Mar 28, 2011

  • Daniel Scott
    Daniel Scott Mar 29, 2011

    Did you read remaining part of the answer....Also check for the float assembly inside the dishwasher. When water is filling your dishwasher, a float rises along with it. As the float reaches a certain threshold level, it shuts off the flow of water, thereby preventing a leak. Sometimes the float can get stuck in the wrong position in your dishwasher, and it can prevent your dishwasher from filling. Sometimes it can happen due to float valve and on other occasions due to float switch. Inspect the water hose coming to the dishwasher for any blockages. If these are fine then it's due to Water Inlet Valve. Use a multimeter and check for the continuity on inlet valve. If you don't get any value on the multimeter then you'll need to replace the water inlet valve assembly. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.Daniel

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  • Master
  • 3,513 Answers

Hi

The wiring that comes from the bottom of the tank and rises up the door is prone to burning. Before doing the following remove power from your dishwasher. By removing the kick plate at the front and inspecting the bundle of wires you may note that some of the wires are lumpy or burned. These wires need to be repaired. Failing that there is a cycling thermostat mounted to the bottom of the tank above the water valve. These cycling thermoses will prevent the timer from advancing there should be a wiring diagram inside of the door that will help your efforts.

Please check the links bellow for more details:-

http://www.partselect.com/dishwasher+test-timer+repair.htm

http://books.google.com/books?id=7N48z4urzogC&pg=PA129&lpg=PA129&dq=how+do+you+replace+dishwasher+timer+dial&source=web&ots=_ivKZBcuRx&sig=twotriGvxrWQ4q5qCTV-_YDMtGM#v=onepage&q=how%20do%20you%20replace%20dishwasher%20timer%20dial&f=false


Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept the suggestion.

Thank you for contacting fixya.com

Posted on Mar 28, 2011

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Detergent cup, itself
Timer On many dishwashers, a plastic actuator arm mechanically links the timer to the detergent cup. When the timer reaches the proper time in the cycle, the timer activates a lever that opens the detergent cup. If the linkage is broken or defective, the cup stays closed after you've closed it. Check the link and repair or replace it, as necessary.

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The timer energizes the bi-metal switch inside your dishwasher door--directly behind the detergent cup--when the detergent cup should open. When energized, the bi-metal switch deforms away from the detergent cup latch, which opens the detergent cup. If the bi-metal switch is defective, it may not deform enough to open the cup. If that happens, you need to replace it.

On some dishwashers, the bimetal switch is wired through the heating element or motor circuit. If the element is broken (or open), or if the motor is drawing low current because of a low-fill situation, the bi-metal switch doesn't open properly.

Newer dishwasher models use a wax motor instead of a bi-metal switch. It's a sealed unit with wax that heats up and pushes a piston through to open the door. The wax motor, controlled by the timer, mechanically opens the door.

Detergent cup, itself The detergent cup itself can become clogged with old dried detergent that prevents it from opening. Sometimes just cleaning the cup takes care of the problem. If not, you probably need to replace the entire cup assembly

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Detergent cup, itself
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