Question about Dishwashers
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: bosch dishwasher shu4302uc
Common problem with these. Control panel (behind all the buttons on the door) has a thyristor in the middle of the PCB for switching the heater element ON/OFF.
After many screws and a bit of fiddling about, get access to back of PCB (print side) to find dry joints. Clean and re-make joints and all should be well.
Caution, this is a high voltage area. Disconnect from mains.
Please see photos.
Posted on Mar 10, 2008
Found the problem after stripping down around the main pump area.
The air pipe connected to the pressure switch on the front right hand side is connected to a small plastic box which in turn is connected to the flow pipe that fills the machine,and the box was completely blocked with slug which stopped the pressure switch from operating and so prevented the water input solenoid from opening. Hence no water would come into the machine
Posted on Sep 09, 2008
This is such an easy repair, you'll be shocked and surprised! The reason this is happening is that the computer or timer has detected a "flood" condition and has permanently energized the drain pump to clear the "flood".
What you'll need to fix it...
1.) Shop-Vac (for vacuuming water) with a crevice tool (like one of these)
2.) T20 Torx bit with a driver. Torx sizing here. (You can get a set at Home Depot or Lowes)
All you gotta do now is get down on the floor and remove the kick panel. Then remove the screws holding the water valve and lift it up out of its' plastic holding. Now your shop-vac w/ crevice tool can be used. Stick the crevice tool in there (about 10") and vacuum up all the water that's been trapped in the basin. (you may need a flashlight to see what's going on back in there...) After the water is gone, your DW will work fine.
Here's how it works... About 10" behind the inlet valve is a "float" made of styrofoam. When water gets into the basin, the float rises and eventually trips a "flood condition" switch. This switch shuts the unit down and will only allow the drain pump to operate. So what you want to do is get the water out of the basin.
There may be a reason for the basin flooding, though. Suds (caused by too much (or the wrong) detergent), an actual water leak from the valve, etc... So after you get the water out of there and the unit is working again, you may want to monitor it (like, only run it when someone is home) for a while just to make sure that a real flood does not occur.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Mar 23, 2009
SOURCE: My Bosch dishwasher runs long.
Welcome to FixYa.
Based on your description I'd say the issue actually with the control...unfortunately.
**B/S/H/ also issued a recall on certain models between 1999 - 2006 depending on the model & serial number, you can check with yours, though many not included here still suffers from the same problem...you'll need the serial number too. Here`s the link if you want to see for yourself **
As I've alluded to the issue is likely within the electronic timer/control, specifically the heater relay solder joint. ( a faulty flow switch, ntc or heater can also cause this, but not very probable ).
If you feel capable of checking this on your own, there`s a way to visually inspect the control yourself...it really isn't very complicated.
It will require you to remove the control from the unit and then remove the control from it`s plastic housing and look for a burnt solder contact on the printed circuit board.
The culprit will 99% of the times be one of the pins from the heater relay,
**Flip this over and inspect the solder joints, it will be obvious when you see it.**
This ones new, but it's where to look...
...hence the unit sit`s and takes longer & longer to finish because it can`t heat to advance or unless the 2 buttons for "cancel" are pressed...or takes a long time as I mentioned and eventually display's "1" on units with a display and usually very poor cleaning and obviously no "extra" heat ( aside from the water inlet temp. ) as a result.
You can also run the unit through a regular or econo cycle ...any cycle with the exception of rinse & hold, and with the door panel removed place an ammeter on the gray/black wire it should draw 11 amps during the wash cycle...after it fills and the flow switch indicates it has adequate water to engage the heater.
**My Opinion - if you or someone you know is proficient at soldering, a lot of times it can be remedied by simply repairing the solder...but it has to be done well...or it will not last, although Bosch recommend`s replacing the control and I don`t pretend to speak on there behalf nor do I profess to know better. This is just my experience (it work`s) and my opinion (why buy new if one can repair ?)**
**Please disconnect the power or turn off the breaker before attempting any service to the dishwasher.**
If you do not feel comfortable attempting this service, call a local pro, preferably one familiar with Bosch/Thermador/Gaggenau/Siemens, to service your machine.
Hope this answer`s your question, let me know if I can assist you further.
Thank`s for visiting "FixYa" for your repair inquiries. Please take a moment and rate this solution to it's helpfulness.
Posted on Jan 03, 2011
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