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I have a 1988 model GameFisher 9.9HP motor. The problem is that it will not syck gas on its own. I can pump the primer until firm like you are suppose to and then the motor will start fine but as soon as I run it for about twenty seconds at full throttle I will have to pump the primer again. It will run longer if I am at idle speed. The short block assembly has been replaced due to engine failure and also all the gaskets have been replaced. The only thing I have not replaced is the actual fuel tank itself and the hose and primer. I have not replaced and reeds either. Is it possible it could be a reed valve not working? Beacuse there is a couple on the carb and on the fuel pump as well. I took the motor to a private mechanic before I replaced the short block assembly and he said that the motor was sucking air was the reason it wouldnt **** fuel but in replacing the gaskets and short block assembly I cant see that being a problem now. Please reply back. The motor runs strong but it is a great inconvenience having to pump the primer every so often to stay running. Any replies will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, J. Pendry

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There are several things that it might be. It could be the gasket on the crab sucking air from not being tight or from being craked. The first thing I would check however is the air vent on the gas tank. It sounds to me like the tank might not be getting enough air. I myself have run a motor before without thinking to open the vent on the top of the gas tank. If these things don't work also check the gas line for cracks or a loose hose calmp or connector. It sounds to me more like the vent in the tank though.

Posted on Mar 28, 2011

  • william moore
    william moore May 02, 2011

    Sounds like you have the Clinton 9.9. this engine had a ported crank shaft. (no reeds) The fuel cap vent was good, but that fuel pump on the side of the carb had a tiny screen pressed into a pocket under the fuel line connector on the carb that would varnish over. Also the nylon reeds on the carb at that same location had a tendency to curl away from the ports they were supposed to seal. Finally- if you are running the remote tank on a long hose or far from the motor, that tiny orange bellows pump bladder in the carb couldn't do the job. Try setting the tank on the seat at engine level and see if it improves.

  • tiltdeck May 02, 2011

    Hi again. From the sounds of things you have a fuel pump problem. If the hose connections are all tight and the tank is vented properly it can only be a fuel pump or carb problem. Without physically having the motor here to work on it is very hard to diagnose properly. If you had accesss to another motor the same you could also swap parts until you find the exact problem. You might also try gravity feeding gas to the engine and see if this helps and it will also help to see if it is in fact the carb or fuel pump.... hope this is helpful

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The main jet is clogged, the one that screws into the Main Nozzle, it looks like a screw and has a hole in the center, it is probably clogged, this will solve your problem
VIC VICJ6349@GMAIL.COM

Posted on Jun 14, 2012

  • victor Jun 14, 2012

    the main jet is clogged, the one that screws into the Main Nozzle, it looks like a screw and has a hole in the center, it is probably clogged, this will solve your problem
    VIC VICJ6349@GMAIL.COM

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Starting proceedure for 72 evinrude outboard?


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Open gas tank vent, pump primer bulb until it is firm, raise hi-idle lever full up, push the key in and hold it in while turning it to "start".

If you can flood your engine with the primer bulb, then your carbs need rebuilding. Pump the bulb until it is firm - that fills the carb bowls - they have a float valve that closes when full. This is true of every carbureted 2-stroke outboard ever made.

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