Question about GE Refrigerators

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Small drip out of ice maker. Ice cubes dump out of ice maker are sort of siamese. I.E., they are chained together by a tiny amount of ice.

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You are getting too much water to your icemaker, either faulty water valve or extremely high pressure or extremely low pressure either way will cause too much water in your icemaker, extreme low causes water valve not to shut off, high pressure lets too much water through when it opens. These pressures are not adjustable in the fridge. You can on certain models adjust the amount of time the valve is on, per the icemaker, it usually will have a screw on the side of it towards the front of the icemaker.


Posted on Mar 27, 2011

  • Betty Johnston Mar 30, 2011


    Thank you for your reply. I am still currently in the investigation stages which has included:
    Pulling the unit away from the wall, vacuuming everything that I could get to, removing the inlet valve to ATTEMPT to perform an OHMS test. I have an inexpensive analog multimeter with only one setting for OHMS which is X1K. I know that it means to multiply the reading by 1000 to get the results. However since I am a newbie at multimeters I don't know if my interpretation is correct or not. I'm thinking of walking into Radio Shack to see what they say, or perhaps, visiting the library and trying to research there.

    I have followed the instructions to calibrate the OHMS to zero - that works. Then I placed the probes on the metal tabs-the set on the water only side and the set on the water to icemaker side.
    I know I should use the green color scale. The probes are plugged in as follows: black into the COM side and red into the OHM side. What's confusing me is the numbers and "tick" marks on the multimeter. Here is a crude representation of part of the meter markings:

    3 2 1 0
    | l | l l l l | l l l l | On the water only side the needle goes to the VERY FIRST tick mark after the zero. On the icemaker water supply the needle is between the zero and the first tick mark. I know that the OHMS should be between 200 and 500 for each side. If I am interpreting this correctly, then the tick marks between the numbers represent 20%. So by multiplying .20 x 1000 it comes out to 200 for the water only side and not enough for the icemaker side which is nearly at zero. While I had the valve out I examined it for debris and couldn't see anything. I also flushed out the steel braided line that leads from the shut off valve in the wall. I also performed a water pressure test at the ice/water dispenser door as per GEs instructions. Twenty seconds should yield a minimum of 13.2 ounces. The water is flowing at a rate of 1 ounce per second. (I got 20 ounces in twenty seconds). But of course that is only testing the water side of the valve. If my interpretations of the multimeter is correct, then I think I need a new valve because it appears that the water side is meeting minimum and the icemaker side is failing to meet minimum. Also, I didn't notice it before but the ice cubes are hollow.
    Thank you for your reply.

  • Sean Miller Mar 30, 2011

    HI sounds like you are getting into this! I'm not actually sure on the ohms but 200-500 is a huge gap and sounds way too high, 20-50 sounds more likely, second if your getting any water at all the chances of the coil in the valve being bad is slim, so your ohm reading will probably be right. I am not familiar with your specific type of meter so i cannot help you there, but icemaker assemblies are usually very simple, if you have good pressure its either the icemaker or the valve, from what your telling me its a bad valve, they run about $30-70.00. This will take care of your problem. I'm curious to know where found these ohm readings did you get them from the wiring diagram?



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