Question about GE Profile Stainless Bottom-Freezer Refrigerator with Internal Dispenser 22.2 Cu. Ft. - PFS22SIS

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The back of the fridge is frozen and food is not getting cold anymore

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  • Sean Miller Mar 27, 2011

    Hi when you say back of the fridge where exactly is it frozen at? Is that in the freezer or the fridge part and when you say frozen you mean ice or frost?

    Sean

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  • GE Master
  • 3,740 Answers

Try this first:

Self Diagnostics

To enter Self Diagnostic mode, both temperature control panel displays must be illuminated. A display can be illuminated by pressing an adjacent temperature adjustment button. When both displays are illuminated, set the freezer and refrigerator temperature settings to 5. Simultaneously press and hold all

4 temperature adjustment buttons for approximately 3 seconds. A flashing 0 in the refrigerator and freezer displays will indicate that the refrigerator is in Self Diagnostic mode.

For temperature control panels with single-digit displays, the COLDER temperature adjustment button will increment the numbers up and the WARMER temperature adjustment button will increment the numbers down. Use the freezer temperature adjustment buttons to enter the test code number in the freezer display. Use the refrigerator temperature adjustment buttons to enter the test code number in the refrigerator display. When a test code has been entered, the displays will flash to confirm the test. Press the HOLD button for 3 seconds to begin the test.


For temperature control panels with 3-digit displays, the COLDER temperature adjustment button will increment the numbers down and the WARMER temperature adjustment button will increment the numbers up. Use the freezer temperature adjustment buttons to enter the test code number in the freezer display. Use the refrigerator temperature adjustment buttons to enter the test code number in

the refrigerator display. When a test code has been entered, the displays will flash to confirm the test

code. Press any button other than a temperature adjust button to begin the test.

When testing has been completed, do one of the following things:

• Enter code 1 5 to completely reset the system.

• Enter code 1 6 to exit diagnostic mode. The temperature control panel is reset automatically.

• Unplug the refrigerator for at least 10 seconds. Test mode will terminate when the refrigerator is plugged back in.
Test mode will terminate automatically after 15 minutes of inactivity.


You need to cycle your freezer display to indicate 0 and your refrigerator display to 7.


Control and Sensor System Self-Test (0 7)

This test checks all five thermistors located throughout the unit. Once the test is initiated, the test code (0 7) will stop flashing and the thermistor test results will appear on the freezer display in the test order listed below. The thermistor test sequence number will not be shown on the display.

If the unit is not equipped with the Quick Chill option, the third thermistor (quick chill) will display a 0 and 3 audible beeps will sound at the temperature control panel. This is not a failure if the unit is not equipped with the Quick Chill option.

Thermistor test results:

• P = Pass

• 0 = Failed

• S = Short to 5 VDC

• B = Bad amplifier

Thermistor test sequence is:

1. Fresh food top thermistor

2. Fresh food bottom thermistor

3. Quick chill thermistor (displays 0 if unit is not equipped with Quick Chill option)

4. Evaporator thermistor

5. Freezer thermistor

Note: Thermistor test results will be displayed in the sequence shown above. The thermistor test sequence number will not be shown on the display.


Note the failures if any. Should ANY of thermistors fail you must replace it.


Having said that... at this point your stick with doing a manual defrost by unplugging the unit and directing a fan into the compartment for just over 2 hours to make sure ALL of the ice on the coils and in the drains has melted. (Yes it makes a water mess!)


After the manual defrost restart the unit / plug it in and once the compressor starts listen for the evaporator fan when the door switch is actuated and the condenser fan in the bottom of the unit any time the compressor is running. If either of the fans are not running you must find out why. Can be a door switch, motor winding or power to the motor. The door switch does not affect the condenser fan.


Finally if the unit is not automatically defrosting due to a component failure... i.e

Heater, themistor, or wiring you will see ice build up again in 2 to 3 days again and you will have to keep going through the manual defrosting routine until the automatic defrosting problem is resolved.


Thanks for choosing FixYa.

Kelly

Posted on Mar 27, 2011

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SOURCE: Fan runs constantly and does not keep temp cool enough

forst on the back wall means you have a defrost problem or a air leak aroudh the door gasket-mike

Posted on Mar 16, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: My fridge is too cold

I wrote under "guest" earlier on Aug 5th. I jave since discovered that the problem is a manufacturer problem. Apparently Liebherr had problems with their sensors, which they have since corrected, but they were put in all the earlier fridge/biofresh. I contacted the Liebherr agent in Melbourne Australia where mine came from (Andi-Co), and they have sent someone out to replace the sensor free of charge (mine has been out of warranty since March 2008). The sensor tells the compressor when to shut off, and when faulty does not do this so the compressor keeps running and freezes everything. I did have to make a bit of a fuss though and write them a letter before they came out. I printed out this page as evidence that it was clearly a manufacturing problem, which they have now confirmed. So I suggest you ask your supplier to fix the problem free of charge. Good Luck!

Posted on Aug 14, 2008

  • 1122 Answers

SOURCE: Freezer cold but things not frozen -frosting up. Fridge warm.

most of the time on ge its the defrost heater or defrost sensor in the freezer,that's why its freezing up.you can go to sears .com click on prats put in your modeal number and get yours parts-mike

Posted on Nov 30, 2008

Maanita
  • 1142 Answers

SOURCE: My refrigerator is not keeping my food cold or frozen!!

Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer


  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)


  • The defrost heater


If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Posted on Mar 24, 2009

heatman101
  • 43501 Answers

SOURCE: not getting cold anymore

Hi,
As the weather is getting warmer for many people their freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...

Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4024657-refrigerator_condenser_coil_cleaning

heatman101

Posted on Apr 13, 2010

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most of the time on ge its the defrost heater or defrost sensor in the freezer,that's why its freezing up.you can go to sears .com click on prats put in your modeal number and get yours parts-mike

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