Question about Maytag Atlantis MAV8551 Top Load Washer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Maytag Performa Washing Machine
Before you do anything else..UNPLUG it from the 240volt supply ! Read ALL of this before attempting the fix. After draining out the water, lay the machine down to expose the inner workings. You'll need to find the pressure switch which is connected by an thin rubber or plastic tube from the wash tub. Check that it is is properly connected.(YOu may have to cut off a little of each and to give you a an "as new" airtight sealed fitting. A little smear of quikgrip glue around the nozzle at each end will ensure a longlife airtight fit of the tubing.) BUT before you do the final glueing and fitting of the tube. Just have the tube at the pressure switch nozzle connected and BLOW into it. You should hear an audible click when blowing and relesing the air. Even if you hear this, it only confirms that the diaphragm in the pressure switch is ok. It does not tell you if the two way switch inside it of good integrity. By integrity I mean the condition of the switching CONTACTS, As they carry high current, they eventually burn and pit and can become of such HIGH resistance to the flow of current that there is none when the switch is in fact physically in the on position. Further advice from me can be had by accessing the PAYG "Let our Experts Solve YOur Problem" FixYa Link.
Posted on Aug 30, 2007
Good AM. I see here that you have a fairly old belt drive Kenmore washer. The real problem with these is that the parts for them are so very expensive anymore to get. A timer (which you may be needing) will run you around $100.00 to $175.00 depending on where you live. Very expensive repairs on these, but if you want to go for it, here are some hints to help. Sounds like you have one of three problems. First off PLEASE UNPLUG YOUR MACHINE BEFORE WORKING ON IT. Your timer may have lost or has a stuck contact inside (unrepairable in most cases) which is making it do something is shouldnt be doing in that area of the timer. This would probably be the most expensive of your repair. The next thing is it could be the water level switch could be going bad. This one is highly doubtful since it fills and stops filling, but I have heard (but never have seen) that they can short out sometimes and cause wacky operation. Both these issues can be fixed by remove the console rear panel and front knobs to remove both. The next item could be a defective wig-wag in the bottom of the unit. One of the positioning solinoids maybe going bad and sending bad signals back to the timer.
None of these problems are really hard to fix. And truthfully (even though some of these guys will be mad) you can sometimes find these parts on ebay for a halfway good price. Part numbers for each are:
Water Level Switch: 359712
Good luck with this one, and if you know how to use one, try to run resistance with an ohm-meter on your wig-wag to be sure your getting power flow through the soilnoids (you will have 2, be sure to unplug the solinoids before testing to be sure its a true test) before replacing.
Posted on Dec 06, 2007
Try resetting your water level control. If that doesn't help then set the water level control to the lowest setting and observe if level exceeds that setting. If so, you may possibly have a faulty water level control, or an obstruction in the air dome or water level control hose. This can be a tricky 1 to diagnose for a novice.
Posted on May 24, 2008
The fact that it does not fill completely can be related to a problem with the water-level switch, that regulates the water level.
See from Repairclinic:
"This switch is usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. If the switch is defective, it may prematurely signal the water to shut off. If so, you probably need to replace the water-level switch."
However, when it is only the switch the mashine usually completes the cycle, but with less water than normal.
A possibilty is that either the timer is faulty or there is a problem with the water supply.
Check that water is coming from water supply with regular pressure, and that hoses back there are not obstructed.
More likely you will have to replace the timer.
See again from Repairclinic:
"When the cycle doesn't advance, it's probably the timer or a cold-water supply problem:
You can find parts at the following websites, you need to input your model number. If the part is not listed contact them.
Don't forget to rate the solution.
Posted on Sep 01, 2008
Since your washer worked fine while in Germany and now is exhibiting this problem at your new home, you may want to double check how it was installed. I suspect you may have a problem known as "siphoning". The following link explains:
This could be a simple situation where the drain line on the washer is not installed correctly. There are minimum height and length requirments on the drain line. In addition, make sure the stand pipe you have the drain hose inserted in has a proper air gap to allow draining. All of this is explained in the link provided.
I hope this information is helpful to you. The majority of the situations arise from improper installation and is not an operaitonal problem with the washer. If, however, you double check everything and still have problems, please post back and let me know.
Posted on Sep 11, 2008
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