Question about Mitsubishi WS-65315 65" Rear Projection HDTV-Ready Television

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The Television is a Mitsubishi WS-65315, which I have had for approximately two years.The TV comes on, I can run through all the menu features, but I have no picture or sound on any settings. (i.e. Ant A, Ant B, DTV, Comp-1, Comp-2, etc.) The set was working fine, then it began taking about 30 minutes to show a picture, now I get nothing. On the Ant-A, and Ant-B settings I get a dark screen, on all other settings I get a Blue screen. I tried the "menu/input" together for 6 sec, but did not get any led response. I have taken the back off and cleaned the motherboard, and all the cooling fins. I paid too much for this TV for it to take a **** on me. Thanks, Warren K. Hall

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  • Warren Hall Mar 29, 2011

    I checked the capacitors, they all look fine. I don't think it is a power problem. The set comes on, and I can run through all the setup menu items. It just won't display a picture with either an ant, nor any other component attached (plugged into) it. I get a blue screen, on all settings except the ANT-A, or ANT-B input settings.All menu functions work fine and display, including the color adjustment mode.

    - Warren Hall

  • Warren Hall Mar 29, 2011

    By the way, what do the fuses look like in one of these? I have not checked them yet, basically because I am not real sure what I am looking for.

  • Warren Hall Apr 06, 2011

    I checked all the capacitors, they all looked fine. The TV comes on and stays on. I can use all the menu features, the problem is there is no picture comming from the Ant-A or B. I get a black screen on these two settings. All other settings (i.e.: DTV, Comp1 & 2, etc.) I get a blue screen. Like I said, the set comes on and stays on. I watched the led code on the front when plugged in, it gives me a "no problem" code. I am stuck.

  • Warren Hall Apr 12, 2011

    Ok. Checked fuses. On the capacitors, is the top of them supposed to be totally flat? I have a couple that look like they are not quite flat. I have not replaced them yet, was going to check first before I did.



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I sound like a broken record these days but bad capacitors are rampant these days, and it looks possibly like something in the power supply is gone and the input board isn't getting the power it needs that or a fuse on the power or input board is gone, or both.

Capacitors tend to fail gradually, thus the 30 minute warm up time (which also indicates that it's highly unlikely to be a loose cable of any kind and chances are that no fuses are gone)
There's a good chance you have failing electrolytic capacitors in the power section

Any caps in that look bulged at the top, or bulged/leaking at the bottom need to be replaced no matter what section they are in.
If you repeatedly turn it on, eventually it'll probably stay on, but every time you turn it off, the TV will get harder and harder to start up until one day it just won't.
Sometimes you have to do the opposite to start it up and unplug it for 5 mins, then try.

If you aren't tech savvy, don't worry, people that have never soldered before have managed this repair.

If you are handy with a soldering iron and can identify the power supply, a handful of capacitors will likely fix you right up.
Match the capacitance on the capacitors. Go over voltage if you can, and still have them fit.
IE - it's not a bad idea to replace a 10V cap with a 16V or 25V or even a 50V, but don't replace a 680uF cap with a 500uF or a 1000uF (unless you are positive it's only doing ripple filtering, and even then, you should go OVER, not under the uF rating).

Most of the caps that go are 10V 1000uF or 3300uF.

I found some great videos of the procedure (for many Samsungs with the same issue) on youtube.

As you can see, this issue spans plasma TVs, as well as large and small LCD TVs and monitors.
The parts are cheap, and skill required is minimal.

Posted on Mar 27, 2011

  • Norman Skinner
    Norman Skinner Apr 06, 2011

    initially taking 30 mins to show pic, then not showing at any input suggests a capacitor issue, specifically supplying power to the input processor board (which would not affect your onscreen menu or powering up....yet...
    Check the cable between the power board and the input board...touch up the solder connections on the cable connectors on both boards - but my money is still on a bad cap.
    If you're looking for fuses, the may be small white rectangular boxes with metal caps on each end, they may be flat, rectangular and green or they may be flat rectangular very tiny zero ohm resistors (will have a "0" (zero) marked on the top (usually)
    copy this link into your browser address bar to see all sorts of surface mount fuses.
    Yup, that's why it takes the pros years to learn electronics...those are just SOME examples of surface mount fuses!
    As you can see, more types than I could ever describe here.



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