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How to bypass power switch wireing - Rowenta DG-980 Iron

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What you will need to do is to take the switch out, and join the wires that are connected to it. If you do this the iron will be on as soon as you plug it in.

Posted on Mar 27, 2011

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it is betterr to get a sealed power plug with the nylon insulation for the iron with a 15 amps rating wire and plug.
open the unit and disconnect the wire of the damaged plug, remove and replace with the new one taking care to connect each of the wires to the correct position. The lead , neutral and the ground must be double checked before you switch on.

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I'm not familiar with your particular model , or Irons themselves.
So forgive me if im wrong ,
I think it could be a safety feature , to prevent accidents, so replacing the switch will most likely make no difference.

But if you still find yourself needing to Iron sideways , possibly whilst extreme bungee-jumping or entering the earth's outer atmosphere !! LoL sorry couldn't help myself there , you could try phyically bypassing the switch itself.

There would be two main ways to approach such a task, depending on the cut-out system utilized by the iron.

[u]Electrical diversion[/u]

Usually safety cut-out switches will interrupt the power of one polarity only, either positive or negative. especially where water is involved. This is easily bypassed by simply joining the matching 2 wires together either side of the switch to complete the circuit making the safety switch obsolete. There may be other wires for indicator lights ect which are better left alone for now.

[u]Mechanical diversion[/u]

The iron may utilize the water or other moving component to interrupt the power supply .Such as a water level indicator in a kettle, which is positioned to activate only when in sideways position. Again you could bypass the wires as above or bind the mechanism to prevent the movement being possible.

If it does use the water method , running the iron with no or low water in it may work...But there's probably a safety feature for that too....LoL

Anyways hope it helps you out a little

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Philips low cost iron box


It sounds to me like the thermal cutoff switch has blown. Irons have these as a safety device similar to a fuse to protect against fire in the event the iron gets too hot. These are not very costly to replace. Here is a link to where you can buy them:

http://www.welco.com.cn/?gclid=CJiWv7TN2ZQCFQpzHgodl1LXQQ

Make sure you get one of the exact same cutoff point as the one designed for your Iron. If you put in a higher temp device it will be harder to blow but will make the iron dangerous as it may cause a fire if it over heats. Some shady repair men will just bypass this and the iron will work again fine but this is a dangerous practice as it directly puts you of danger. If you do have it repaired at a shop demand for the old thermal cutoff from your unit when you drop it off so the tech will know you know what is wrong with it and that you will check to make sure that it has really been changed. This will also not give him the chance to over charge you when he knows you know it is only a 1 dollar part and easy to change.
This device is very easy to change, If you can open your iron you could easily do this yourself. The part, as you will see on the site where you buy them, only has 2 wires one comming out of each end. You simply cut out the old 1 and replace it with the new one. You do not even have to worry which end goes where. It is like a fuse, it works the same either direction. You have to buy some wire crimp connector to connect it, you can not just solder it in due to the heat in the iron. In a pinch you could just securely twist the ends of the leads with the leads from the old cutoff if you clip the leads from the old cutoff real close to the device. This will leave you with plenty of wire to get a good twist. I always use the crimp connectors so it looks more professional.
Anyway, I hope you found this to be helpful and if you need more help feel free to ask me. I will stay with you on this until we have it fixed.
George

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