Question about Washing Machines

3 Answers

Dear Guru, Am impressed with Mobilian's how-to videos. I think I can get into the machine now. The question is, what to look for or repair? Unit: Maytag Insignia MTW5830TW0 washer, S/N CU1840134. Says Insignia. Nice unit, looks new. Reportedly from Best Buy. Runs fine, agitates, cycles, fills, drains, etc. HOWEVER, when starting a spin it begins smoothly at first - then all H*** breaks loose. It does not shake radically, but gets VERY noisy. Clanging/scraping/banging - it sounds like it is tearing itself apart. It continues like this until that part of the cycle ends. Cannot be good. With lid open, pushing the agitator around forcefully seems to create some of the same sounds. Probably less than 5 years old. Bought matching dryer (MED5830TW0) and the washer came with. I see why they wanted to get rid of the washer. Used, said had not been in use for over 1 year. Probably moved around a bit. What to do? Junk? something to fix? replace? call repairman? Thanks, Rick

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  • 20 more comments 
  • Rick REEDER Mar 27, 2011

    not unbalanced - problem happens with no clothes in the washer, only water.
    Motor unlikely - not enough use on this machine so far, not that old.

    may be suspension - what type does this washer model have?
    Once type is known, what is the process to diagnose and repair?
    Thanks.

  • Rick REEDER Mar 27, 2011

    see comment - solutions are too generic.
    See problem like this before?

  • Rick REEDER Mar 28, 2011

    Nice diagrams, thanks. However -
    The agitator, tub and basket diagram does not seem to show such a bearing. Nor does the 'Brake and drive tube' or 'Brake, clutch, gearcase' or 'Machine base parts.' The 'Gearcase parts, optional' diagram has 2 little (flat?) bearings (17 and 18) - are these the items? huge job to get into the gearcase and replace them?

    What test will conclusively ID what the problem is? Previous advice mentioned suspension that seems likely also.

    I do not think I am getting very definitive answers or suggestions to this as yet.

    Thanks.

  • Rick REEDER Mar 28, 2011

    it seems my comment previously was lost - i will try to recreate it:
    This is not an unbalanced situation - it happens with no clothes, only water in the tub.
    It is not a motor speed problem - not with the loud noises being made.

    Suspension seems a possibility. What is the procedure to zero in on the diagnosis and resolve this?

    Friction plates, unless missing entirely, should not create noises like this? It is loud. The noise only happens when spin starts up and gets going, but there is no noise and it is smooth for the first 5-10 seconds. Then the racket starts.

    What should I do next on it?

  • Rick REEDER Mar 28, 2011

    Check dialog so far, please.
    I do not think we are zeroing in on the diagnosis and repair procedure specific to this model and problem (loud noisy spin).
    Thanks,
    Rick R

  • Rick REEDER Mar 28, 2011

    Thanks. Shouldn't you know this is a top load by the model?
    If the plastic tub housing were broken wouldn't this leak? it does not.
    Have schematic link from previous solution - Sears. Good diagrams and parts lists. (I note the parts are now Whilrpool - i guess they took over.)

    Will try inspecting as recommended and get back with findings. It looks like getting the housing off is 'simple' per the video by Mobilian - just need to defeat the lid switch somehow so it will run with the housing off it seems.

    I think we are zeroing in on the issue - let's see.
    Thanks.

  • Rick REEDER Mar 29, 2011

    thanks - will look at report back.

  • Rick REEDER Mar 29, 2011

    Thanks - will check it out.

  • Rick REEDER Mar 29, 2011

    Thanks - will check and advise findings.

  • Rick REEDER Mar 30, 2011

    how do i rate you? first time for me.

  • Rick REEDER Mar 30, 2011

    i hope you enjoyed the HI trip. See comment for latest.

  • Rick REEDER Mar 30, 2011

    Looked under the cover and found an issue - but may not be doing too much damage other than noise. Findings below.

    Diagram: "Machine Base Parts" athttp://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdir...*/3048/0153200

    1. Part #14, "Plate, suspension," is broken. This has 3 sides. One of the legs, between the rear and left front, is split. When in spin mode this grates and seems to create much of the noise.

    any problem with running it for a while as is?

    2. Springs. Found 4. All seemed fine.
    One is #12, "Spring," connecting from one bracket in the rear to the base; vertical.
    Three #3, "Spring, suspension." These are horizontal from each bracket.

    However, I missed #7 spring. On the diagram it is not clear where this is found. I did not see it, but may not have looked hard enough for it. On the diagram it seems to be in the rear?

    #12 spring seems to be the only thing holding stuff down. However, that bracket in the rear is the only one with an extension for this spring - and an obvious place for the other end of the spring in the base. the other 2 brackets have holes that could take a spring, but no obvious place to attach the other end as a hold-down.

    3. suspension and other. Everything else seemed to be in order and looks pretty new. I saw 3 pads in place (not sure if #15 or #13) but did not know there is another set of 3 I should have seen. Other than noise it seems to run fine.

    Generally, the entire tub suspension seems "loose" and easy to move up, down and around. Is this the way it should be? This moving around is making the noises, especially with the break in the plate #14. That only happens with some vibration when up to speed in spin mode. Otherwise it runs reasonably quietly.

    Getting the enclosure back in place is a lot harder than it looks. getting everything to align and in place took quite a bit of finagling.

    4. Next?
    order #14 plate?
    order #7 spring - just in case?
    how hard will it be to replace the #14 plate?
    any other adjustments or checks needed?
    get a repairman to fix?
    or, chuck the whole thing?

    Please advise. Thanks.

  • Rick REEDER Mar 30, 2011

    i only see 'accept this solution' - or comment ...i do not see 'was this solution...'

  • Rick REEDER Mar 30, 2011

    are springs #3 and #7 the same? the 3 on the brackets, #3 on the diagram do go around the bottom, horizontally. The diagram shows the #3's hanging vertically, but #7 horizontal - that is the way the #3's are.

    I did not check for #6, link leveling. i see 2 pieces on the diagram but where are they? what do they connect?

    i think we are getting very close. Thanks.

  • Rick REEDER Mar 30, 2011

    not sure where these replies are going - check comments as i said, i thought, in an earlier reply. i do not see that one now.

  • Rick REEDER Mar 30, 2011

    one confusion: the sears diagrams part lists are not quite right.
    See:http://www.kitchenaid.ca/assets/pdfs/lit...

    The pictures are the same, but the part number descriptions are better. Now it is clear that #7 is a separate spring for the leveling link and the the #14 plate includes #13 pads, not #16 base. And, #16 base includes a lot of stuff.

  • Rick REEDER Apr 01, 2011

    Thanks, I think about done. Remaining question: What might be the problem running the washer as is? It makes quite a bit of noise but seems to work OK.

    Maybe we will see how long it lasts then look for a replacement rather than trying to fix it.

  • Rick REEDER Apr 01, 2011

    rickead1 was very diligent and helpful. The pointers led to the underlying issue and we are done for now. Thanks.

  • Rick REEDER Apr 01, 2011

    Helpful, thanks.

  • Rick REEDER Apr 01, 2011

    Faulty suspension turned out to be the issue.
    Clearly, based on the make/model here, it should be clear that this washer has a spring/friction plate (with pads). Helpful, Thanks.

  • Rick REEDER Apr 01, 2011

    too bad about hawaii, but welcome back.

  • Rick REEDER Apr 01, 2011

    seems to spin ok - noise is not motor but banging and clanging. Does not seem to vibrate too much even in spin. other than noise seems to work ok. Thanks.

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3 Answers

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Hello Rick,
I am currently unable to bring up your schematic due to the site being down for maintenance at this time i will be sending you your schematic in the morning. If this is a front load unit you would remove the top cover as well as the lower front access panel to inspect what the unit is doing when it is spining also inspect all the struts to assure none are broken on either end and that the struts that go onto the plastic tub have not broken the plastic tub houseing this causes you to have to replace the outter tub at a whoppiing cost of about 220 just for the part.you would need to remove these two panels and set the unit to spin and see what its doing and then message me back with your finds I await your reply and will message you again in the morning Thanks
Rick

Posted on Mar 28, 2011

  • 6 more comments 
  • Rick Ead
    Rick Ead Mar 28, 2011

    i was unable to see that this was a top loader due to the site being down for maintenance to jump past the lid switch you can see where the actual switch itself plugs into the connector disconnect the switch and take a wire clip bth ends so that you can expose the wires on both sides plug your jumper wire between points 1 and 3 on the connector then turn on your unit this is how you jump past the lid switch seeing also how you have a top loader and not a frontloader you wouldnt have struts instead you would have springs around the base going in a circular direction around the tub down the bottom each of these springs should be checked if your missing any this could be your problem message me back with your finds I await your reply Thanks rick

  • Rick Ead
    Rick Ead Mar 28, 2011

    here is the diagram of the base of the unit http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdir... part no 7 is the springs that you would be checking to make sure they are all attached going around the bottom of your unit also make sure that part number 6 is intact as well this is the link leveling system any further questions message me back Thanks again Rick

  • Rick Ead
    Rick Ead Mar 29, 2011

    no rush if you post after 10pm my time i will reply on thursday flying from hawaii to east coast take care and god bless
    Rick

  • Rick Ead
    Rick Ead Mar 31, 2011

    the job itself is a just about a complete tear down of the unit entire tub assembly motor transmission needs to be removed the suspension assembly due to part number 14 being broken is loose at this time it is not supposed to be loose I have arrived at my destination and await any further questions thanks Rick

  • Rick Ead
    Rick Ead Mar 31, 2011

    repairman is going to cost you over 200 due to the amount of time that it will take him to take it apart if you have a repairman do the job get the parts from a place like www.marcone.com this way you dont pay there I found your part fee order 14 and if your not seeing 7 then most likely its gone and would have to be replaced as well you also might need part 15 as well the base pads have to check them to make sure they fite into where they seat properly on the question of should you junk this would depend on if you did the job or if someone else did it isnt worth calling a tech the bill would be more then the unit is worth if you are able to repair it yourself part should run you in between 50-75 Any further questions message me back Thanks Rick

  • Rick Ead
    Rick Ead Apr 01, 2011

    was in hawaii over past 11 months working for gov in hawaii stinks to live in might be good to visit i guess if you were a tourist and did not know about all the insects lol message me back with any further questions Thanks Rick

  • Rick Ead
    Rick Ead Apr 01, 2011

    when the washer is in agitate or spin it is always out of level due to the leveling plate what kind of noise though is it a motor noise or a grinding noise if its a banging its due to the levers old saying bud just run it into the ground if you dont wish to repair the parts eventually it will warp out the drive shaft on the transmission due to it spining out of level Any further questions message me back thanks again Rick

  • Rick Ead
    Rick Ead Apr 01, 2011

    yeah thats due to it being out of level bud with that leveling plate Take care and thanks again for using Fixya Rick

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  • Master
  • 2,382 Answers

Hi, a banging/clanging/scraping washer can be caused by an unbalanced load, which is caused more by an under loaded machine than an overloaded machine. If the machine is constantly banging then one of the following may be the cause.
An unregulated motor
The module that controls the motor needs adjusting or replacing or the motor needs calibrating, because the speed is finely regulated to balance the wash load when the machine goes into spin. After the machine has tumbled it goes into distribution mode, and this is where most of the problems occur. The drum has to build its speed from tumble (35-55 rpm) to distribution speed (83 rpm). If this does not happen gradually, the clothes will gather at one side of the drum and create an out of balance load. Hotpoint and Servis (older carbon brush) motors can be adjusted by turning the brass calibrating ring on the tacho assembly attached to the back of the motor. Otherwise you need to take the control board to be repaired, re-calibrated or replaced.
Faulty suspension
There are two common types of suspension, a spring and friction plate type and a shock absorber type. The first one suffers from the friction plates becoming shiny and not gripping properly. This can be cured by either replacing the friction pads, or simply sanding down the surfaces of the pads to roughen them.
The shock absorber type can suffer from broken legs, or loss of oil in the dampers. Either case would cause the tub of the washer to be loose and free to move around inside the cabinet.
Loose components
Any component from the motor to the concrete block at the top or bottom of the machine can become loose and cause banging. This requires visual inspection and repair.

Posted on Mar 27, 2011

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  • Washing Mach... Master
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The inner tub bearing is most likely defective this is a huge job to replace and not for the home repair person, this means a very big repair bill, around $400.00, I advise you to cut your losses and just replace the washer with another new top loader, stay away from front load washers, they just don't have the bugs worked out of them unless you buy the commercial grade washer which is big $$. Below is a link to the Sears direct site that has the exploded view of the inner tub and surrounding parts.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Maytag-Parts/Washer-Parts/Model-MTW5830T*/3048/0153200

Posted on Mar 28, 2011

  • 1 more comment 
  • yadayada
    yadayada Mar 28, 2011

    Hello Again

    The bearing is part of the inner tub assembly. My advice stands, it is a better idea to replace rather than repair. This report is beyond the home repair person, a hired repair technican is a bout $70.00 per hour, and that is most likely the low estimate. Gives Sears a call and ask about the repair, they will want about $100 just to come out and take a look at the problem. I have offered you my professional opinion cut your losses.

  • yadayada
    yadayada Mar 29, 2011

    Hello 3/29/11

    No the washer would not leak in most cases. I have answered this exact same question on top loaders many times, none were leaking, they just shook like crazy. What are you going to check out, you don't say in your last reply to me.If I have provided useful advice then could you please rate me as "HELPFUL" for Fixya.com, that is how we experts get compensated for our efforts and time. Thanks.

  • yadayada
    yadayada Mar 30, 2011

    At the bottom of the window on your end where i posted my comments you will see this, "WAS THIS SOLUTION"

    THEN IT WILL SAY "HELPFUL", "NOT HELPUL", CHOOSE HELPFUL. Thanks

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