Question about JBL New Jbl Jrx 125 Dbl 15 2 Way Speaker In Stock Free Shp

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JRX125...there was a rattle/noise that indicated blown driver on midrange horn...replaced drivers, noise still occurs. discovered loose 1/4 in jack to tip of plug...tightened fit, but didn't trust it...switched to speakon cables (new). Noise is now intermittant. Any suggestions?

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  • JBL Master
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The noise MIGHT be a resonance in the cabinet. The way to find out is to sweep a frequency upward to see if something rattles at certain frequencies... Don't be surprised to find several. Within the cabinet are the usual culprits: Wires rattling against the cabinet, loose debris, grilles and the logos on them, circuit boards with crossover hardware, cabinet wood that is not glued and rattles against itself. Things like bass port tubes can rattle.
Find an audio generator and sweep the cabinet from 50Hz to 10KHz and you will be surprised. Some speakers may have resonances as well. Expect things in your room to start rattling as well.
This is really the only way to find the problem. PLEASE wear hearing protectors at levels above 90Db.

Posted on Mar 27, 2011

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My Behringer pmp2000 is now only giving an output through the tweeter horns of my speakers so the sound is very tinny. Any suggestions as to what might be wrong?


Your woofers are probably blown. To check plug a 1/4 inch or speakon into the speaker cabinet with the two bare wires exposed on the opposite end and touch with a 9volt flat battery if the driver doesn't move ir sound it's blown

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Woofer rattles at low volume...when i turn it up it sounds pretty good...still has bass and highs


May be a couple of things; The first is a resonance in the cabinet, which may not be noticeable at high volumes. If the speaker cabinet was ever dropped,or got cracked from dropping , dry weather,or whatever, there may be certain frequencies that make the cabinet rattle. Try holding the cabinet when it rattles and look for anything loose,from a side wall to a loose foot, or the speaker itself. Tighten up loose items and seal any gaps or cracks On the cabinet.
The other problem could be a partially blown speaker. Test by lightly pushing in on the outsides of the speaker to see if it moves in and out freely. If there is a scratching sound, or it drags slightly , it might be blown. Also,the dust cap or another part of the speaker may be loose. Check that, and reseal if loose. Replace or have reconed if blown.

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Generally, there are two possible problems- The horn diaphragm is blown or the power amp to the horn is broken. The diaphragm being blown is more likely. Remove the driver and run a voltmeter across the terminals. If it doesn't show continuity, replace the diaphragm. If it does show continuity, take the cabinet to the repair shop.

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1 Answer

I have 4 behringer b 615 d. And 3 of those the horn have stop playing


There are really only two choices. Either the horn amplifier in each cab is blown, or the high frequency horn driver diaphragm is blown. It's easiest to check the diaphragm first. Open up the cabinet so you can get to the horn driver terminals. Put a voltmeter across the terminals and check for continuity. if it shows open, you've found the problem. Open the driver and replace the diaphragm and you're done.. If the horn driver tests good, it's time to take the cabinet into your local electronics repair place to have them check out the amp section.

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There are a number of versions of SP-3, but normally you would remove the screws holding the horn into the cabinet, take out the horn and then unscrew the driver from the horn. At that point, either replace the diaphragm on the driver or the whole driver.

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"Rattle" can be a couple of different things- a blown driver, a loose screw, a loose component on the board, etc. Best get it looked at by a serviceman.

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1 Answer

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Where can I buy a horn for my speaker?

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1 Answer

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Open cabinet and look for loose wiring. You may have blown the tweeter horn if nothing is loose.

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Either components in the SoundGard circuit are blown or the horn driver... VERY SLIGHT chance wires have become disconnected. Open unit an inspect. Use ohmmeter to check the polyfuse and the lamp for open circuit indicating they are blown. Your amplifier should be rated at NO MORE than 150 Watts RMS continuous for safety of the horn. Speaker ratings are based on advertising... so don't believe the specs on power handling... If you dig into the specs you will find for the horn a max of 150 Watts continuous.

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1 Answer

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i) I believe you can access the fuse by removing the Input Jack Panel.

ii) If fuse is OK, then unscrew the horn unit, take off one speaker wire & measure resistance. If it is open circuit then you can order a replacement horn diaphragm (if you feel confident to fit it to the horn).

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