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Installed new control board. Heater will not urn on.

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  • Robert Mar 27, 2011

    Are you getting 24 volts between a r and c at the control board?

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Hi,

Here is a tip that will help you try to figure out why your furnace is notworking.

BasicFurnace or Heating System Troubleshooting

heatman101

Posted on Mar 27, 2011

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Thanks for photo link. Not a smart meter.
Just ordinary water heater gas control valve, with small circuit board to support error codes:
Copy following link for handy resources:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-gas-water-heater.html#intellivent
http://www.thetankatwaterheaterrescue.com/forums/forum3/
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-Honeywell-gas-control-valve.html
How the newer gas control valves are different: Old water heater had thermocouple which supplies very tiny current to gas control valve. When pilot light blows out, the thermocouple no longer sends tiny current and gas control valve shuts off gas to heater.
New gas water heaters have thermopile (just like modern furnaces and stoves), which is basically several thermocouples bunched together. So thermopile sends more current to gas control valve, and supplies enough current to power small circuit board. The circuit board records error events and issues simple error codes. If pilot blows out, then thermopile no longer sends current and gas control valve shuts off gas to heater.
Moreover, the new gas control valve can be repaired and replaced without removing from tank. So tank does not have to be drained... saving time and repair cost.
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Rheem water heater rtg95dvn keeps blowing 3 amp fuses


Not for sure what your root cause was and I know it's a little late but I just suffered this same exact scenario on the same water heater. Storms came through, power went out, power came back on and the water heater keeps blowing the 3 amp fuses now. I removed all the cables and plugged them back in one at a time. When I plugged in the Fan Motor connector the fuses blew. Installed new fuses with the connector out, the Fan Motor was putting out 150 VDC through the connector port (on main control). I pulled the control from the unit and Q1 is visible blown and disintegrated on the control board. Obvious control design issue. I've ordered a new control and will put a surge protector on the heater now when the new control comes in. Very disappointed that this was not caught in controls testing within the manufacturers facility. New control is not very cheap. Half the cost of a new Heater. Hopefully the Fan Motor survived the high voltage with the fuses blowing. I'm putting this here for anyone else that suffers the same issue on this water heater or the Richmond equivalents as they use the same control.
rheem-water-heater-rtg95dvn-keeps-lig2cnfgd44b3pejpipwueov-2-0.jpg

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Laars lj 400 heater has blown both inline fuses. Hot surface ignitor was replaced and new fuses installed. Both fuses burnt again. Safty curcuit was bypassed and fuses replaced again. BURNTagain! upon...


It is likely the voltage selector board, the smaller of the two, that is bad. In the past Jandy has recommended changing the heater over to 115V as a better option if you keep loosing the board(s). I forget their exact logic as to why but the last one of those I had behave like this was a few years ago and once we replaced all the burned up electronics and converted the power and the heater over to 115 it never failed again.

Perhaps Jandy would explain further if you need additional info, try calling:
1-800-822-7933

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I have a Williams Gas Space Heater Model#3501912. I purchased this furnace about 10 yrs ago. I have noticed that the space heater will not shut itself off. The gas burners are on, but will not shut itself...


I would suspect not. It's very, very rare for a control valve to go bad, unless someone tried to force it to urn with a pair of pliers or something similar.

If you have provided annual service to the heater, it's probably just residual gas remaining in the burners. To test this theory, turn the flames down to low and then turn the burner OFF. Do the burners and the pilot light go out? If it doesn't, you'll be that rare consumer that needs the Control Valve replaced.

Just to help you out a little bit more. I have provided a link to the Owners Manual for your heater. It's in a downloadable, printable, pdf format.

http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/lis_pdf/OWNM/L0408171.pdf

Hope this helps. Please let me know.

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