Installed new control board. Heater will not urn on.

To remove the base of a Salton Model SU 08 Plastic Urn to replace a new power cord, you can follow these steps:

1. Unplug the urn from the electrical outlet and let it cool down if it was in use.
2. Turn the urn upside down and locate the screws that secure the base to the urn. They are usually located at the bottom of the urn and may be covered by rubber feet or plastic caps.
3. Remove the screws using a screwdriver.
4. Carefully lift the base away from the urn. It may be held in place by clips or other mechanisms, so be gentle and patient.
5. Once the base is removed, you should be able to access the wiring and the power cord.
6. Remove the old power cord by detaching it from the wiring.
7. Install the new power cord by attaching it to the wiring in the same way the old cord was attached.
8. Reattach the base to the urn by aligning the clips or mechanisms and securing the screws.
9. Flip the urn back over and plug it into an electrical outlet to test the new power cord.

Note: If you are not comfortable working with electrical components or unsure about the process, it is recommended that you consult a professional or contact the manufacturer for assistance.

Sounds like you have an LJ Laars heater. The heater is old and it is very likely that the board is having trouble reading the sensor. All the boards are very expensive, might not be worth saving the heater. You may end up replacing more than one board. The sensor should be tested before changing the power control board, R0366800.

what is a Toyota, Kambrook. HUH?
URN?
tap?
what URN, what TAP. ????

kambrook heater, GAME, what?
you are on a Car forum, you know that?

Sounds like flame sensor.

Thanks for photo link. Not a smart meter.
Just ordinary water heater gas control valve, with small circuit board to support error codes:
Copy following link for handy resources:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-gas-water-heater.html#intellivent
http://www.thetankatwaterheaterrescue.com/forums/forum3/
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-Honeywell-gas-control-valve.html
How the newer gas control valves are different: Old water heater had thermocouple which supplies very tiny current to gas control valve. When pilot light blows out, the thermocouple no longer sends tiny current and gas control valve shuts off gas to heater.
New gas water heaters have thermopile (just like modern furnaces and stoves), which is basically several thermocouples bunched together. So thermopile sends more current to gas control valve, and supplies enough current to power small circuit board. The circuit board records error events and issues simple error codes. If pilot blows out, then thermopile no longer sends current and gas control valve shuts off gas to heater.
Moreover, the new gas control valve can be repaired and replaced without removing from tank. So tank does not have to be drained... saving time and repair cost.
Gene

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Not for sure what your root cause was and I know it's a little late but I just suffered this same exact scenario on the same water heater. Storms came through, power went out, power came back on and the water heater keeps blowing the 3 amp fuses now. I removed all the cables and plugged them back in one at a time. When I plugged in the Fan Motor connector the fuses blew. Installed new fuses with the connector out, the Fan Motor was putting out 150 VDC through the connector port (on main control). I pulled the control from the unit and Q1 is visible blown and disintegrated on the control board. Obvious control design issue. I've ordered a new control and will put a surge protector on the heater now when the new control comes in. Very disappointed that this was not caught in controls testing within the manufacturers facility. New control is not very cheap. Half the cost of a new Heater. Hopefully the Fan Motor survived the high voltage with the fuses blowing. I'm putting this here for anyone else that suffers the same issue on this water heater or the Richmond equivalents as they use the same control.

It is likely the voltage selector board, the smaller of the two, that is bad. In the past Jandy has recommended changing the heater over to 115V as a better option if you keep loosing the board(s). I forget their exact logic as to why but the last one of those I had behave like this was a few years ago and once we replaced all the burned up electronics and converted the power and the heater over to 115 it never failed again.

Perhaps Jandy would explain further if you need additional info, try calling:
1-800-822-7933

I would suspect not. It's very, very rare for a control valve to go bad, unless someone tried to force it to urn with a pair of pliers or something similar.

If you have provided annual service to the heater, it's probably just residual gas remaining in the burners. To test this theory, turn the flames down to low and then turn the burner OFF. Do the burners and the pilot light go out? If it doesn't, you'll be that rare consumer that needs the Control Valve replaced.

Just to help you out a little bit more. I have provided a link to the Owners Manual for your heater. It's in a downloadable, printable, pdf format.

http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/lis_pdf/OWNM/L0408171.pdf

Hope this helps. Please let me know.

Rich

depends on the model if its newer its in the electrical control box and its a standard car fuse. if it older then its a twist in OEM with a maroon top on the oustide of the electrical control box ( this is inside the airhandler )

Check the relays!