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Chain slips on front cogs - half a turn on larger cog followed by half a turn on smaller cog - therefore unridable. The front cogs are warped ,moving left & right when being turned. I have got full tool set & a friends (bit rusty but bearly ridden) identical bicycle from which I can swop bits. Can't get pedal & front cogs off frame. Have removed pedal spindle nut of course. I feel I could do with diagram or manual. Do I prise or sharp tap with mallet? or am I missing something here?

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I have straightened a large cog with a big screw driver, putting it through the outer part and levering against the inside. The metal of the cog bends quite easily and you need to work carefully, checking and correcting from the appropriate side as you go along. Your friends can stand and marvel at your brilliance, you don't need their help.

Posted on Mar 27, 2011

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I just cant get used to changing gears,why is there two levers, one on each side of the handle bar.I end up with the chain coming off frequently.


Angie, Have patience. It will come to you. There are two levers, because there are two places where the gears change - in the front (by the pedals) and on the back wheel. You might find it easier to just use one lever. Do this--- have someone help you hold the bike so that the back wheel is off the ground. Turn the pedals on the bike and work one shift lever at a time so that you can see which lever is for the front vs. the rear. If you have three gears in the front (the correct name is chain-rings) then leave the front one so that the chain is on the middle chain ring. If there are two, then select the larger one. Now shift the back one (the gears back there are called cogs). You might have 5,6,7 or even 8 cogs back there. Practice shifting the back cogs to see what is happening. If you find that the chain comes off, even when you leave the front on on the middle chain ring, you need an adjustment. Good luck! Al K

Aug 12, 2011 | Shimano Cycling

1 Answer

My mountain bike will not move from the 2nd front cog to the top cog (ie gears 13-18). i have adjusted the 2 screws which moves the chain guard across the 3 cogs but to no avail. also when in top gear on...


The problem lies in cable. Check out what make of front derailleur (cog shifter) you have (Shimano, SRAM, e.t.c.). Then visit the manufacturers website and check out for technical info and settings.

Jun 02, 2011 | Cycling

1 Answer

I'm new to multi gear bikes..whats the reason for the 6 gear positions on the right and 3 gear positions on the left hand side


Bicycles have two sets of gears (front and back). The 6 position control slides the chain between the 6 sprockets (cogs) on the back. The 3 gears are for the front set of cogs. Between the two sets of sprockets, you get 18 (theoretical) different rates of chain movement per turn of the pedals. In fact some of the settings overlap. (However some of these should not be used. Do not use the settings that pull the chain to the furthest inside of one derailleur and the furthest outside of the other. This diagonal between the biggest and biggest sprockets (or smallest to smallest) puts extra strain on the chain.) The back derailleur is in the lowest gear when on the biggest sprocker. The front low gear is on the smallest cog. The highest gear possible is on the smallest rear cog and the largest front cog.

By planning the shifts in gears, you can maintain the same speed and cadence (rate of pedalling) on different terrains. (For going up a hill, use a lower gear than on flat terrain. However don't go to low or the bike may not balance well.) To shift through a large range of gears, you must be pedalling and then move the rear derailleur control followed by the front derailleur then the back again. (For faster shifts to a low speed, you can shift the front derailleur first but that can stress the system.)

For a guide to using the gears: http://www.southcoastbikes.co.uk/articles.asp?article=Gears .

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

May 14, 2011 | Huffy Cycling

1 Answer

Cannot get rear derailer to work properly 24 inch girls evolution


Don't start messing with the derailleur yet! Make sure your shifting trouble isn't due to something else, such as a warped, dirty, or stretched chain, gummed-up pulleys, crud in the cable housing, trapped cable, or a bent derailleur hanger
Clean the chain and the rear derailleur pulleys. Pull the chain away from each pulley, and turn the pulley to make sure it can move freely. A pulley that offers resistance to turning must be replaced.
Now check the cable to be sure it slides freely. Mud and grit within the cable housing, or on a cable-guide, can keep the derailleur from moving a "full gear" during downshifts. If the cable doesn't slide freely in the housing, you may be able to clean or lube it to restore smooth shifting.
Let the high-gear limit screw. In your highest gear on the shifter, and with the chain on the smallest cog, position the derailleur so the upper pulley exactly matches the teeth of the small cog. Run the chain a bit with the front derailleur in the large ring, adjusting the limit screw until the pulley and the cog seem to match perfectly.

Setting the high-gear (small cog) limiting screw.



Once you're sure the derailleur matches the cog, move it just a whisker (1/8 to 1/4 turn) towards the other cogs. (You may need to readjust a bit if you get chain-skip.)

Closeup of setting the limiting screw.



Now adjust the low-gear limit screw. Shift into the lowest gear (largest cog). If it won't go, loosen the limit screw. With the chain on the largest cog (and the front derailleur in the small chainring), adjust the derailleur so the upper pulley exactly matches the teeth of the large cog.Once it's perfect, turn the limit screw so it moves the derailleur a tiny amount towards the other cogs (1/8 to 1/4 turn usually works).

Setting the low-gear (largest cog) limiting screw.



Now shift to the highest gear (smallest cog). Push the shift lever to downshift one gear (go from the smallest cog to the next-smallest). If it doesn't shift, tighten the cable with the barrel adjuster, 1/2 turn counter-clockwise. Backshift and try again. Continue tightening until it shifts. If it overshifts, going from the smallest cog to the third-smallest, loosen the cable by turning 1/2 turn clockwise. Backshift and repeat until it shifts exactly from the small to the next-smallest cog.

Fine adjustment of tension in the derailleur cable.





Now go to the second-smallest ring. Tighten or loosen the cable slightly, until the outer side plates of the chain are just clearing the third-smallest cog. Shift up and down, fine-tuning until you're satisfied.

Checking the position of the chain on the cogs.





Mar 04, 2011 | Pacific International Pacific Evolution 24...

1 Answer

My chain occasionally comes loose when I hit a bump. How can I make adjustments to prevent the chain from coming loose. I have a Shimano tourr.ey gear mechanism. If I could obtain the instruction manual...


For the wide range of gearing on a MTB, the rear derailleur has to be able to adjust a large amount. If you shift into the smallest front chainwheel and the smallest cog on the rear (position 1), you'll probably see the chain is very loose and the rear derailleur is pointed back horizontally. Conversely, if in the largest front chainwheel and the largest rear cog, the derailleur will be pointed forward (position 2)
Couple things to do: 1) Avoid the gearing combination of the smallest cogs. Instead, use the middle chain ring and a larger cog (you'll have the same net gear ratio). 2) You can remove a link from the chain. A chain tool is about $10.00. You push the pin out through all but the last plate on two links, bend the chain slightly to pop those 2 links out (2 links = a wide link + a narrow link), then put the chain back together. This is only advisable if in position 2 there is some additional travel for the derailleur and in position 1, the derailleur has no additional travel. 3) Make sure your chainrings aren't bent, straighten (use a open-end wrench and gently pull the chain ring back to flat). This isn't likely b/c you don't indicate the chain falls off while shifting. 4). If the chain falls of the inside, screw in about 1/4 turn the inner limit screw on the front deraillleur. If the chain falls off the outside, screw in about 1/4 to 1/2 turn the outer limit screw on the front derailleur.

Mar 02, 2011 | Shimano XTR Hollowtech II Mountain Bike...

1 Answer

Won't just stay in one gear. constantly doing gear changes on its own. Hardrock. Rear set, reguardless of which front gear.


This happens when the back wheel is not aligned properly with the chain. As the wheel turns the chain is being pulled to one side causing it to slip to the next set of cogs. To solve the problem first you need to loosen the wheel by opening the 2 nuts on the axel. If the chain slips inwards towards the wheel you need to move the front part of the back wheel to the left from a view point behind the bike. If it slips outwards away from the wheel then you need to move the front of the back wheel to the right as viewed from behind the bike. When the chain and cogs of the rear wheel are lined up in a straight line the problem should be solved.

Dec 04, 2010 | Specialized Bicycle Components Cycling

1 Answer

Colnago C50 with 11 speed choras group set. When changing up to the big chain ring ready to decend whilst still in one of the largest 2 or 3 rear sprockets the chain...


Is the chain falling off to the outside? if it is you can adjust the "High " limit screw on front derailleur. There are two screws on top of derailleur usaully marked with a L or a H.Shift rear to small cog and front on large ring. Slowly turn screw marked H till you see front derailleur move in. When it starts to rub on chain back off 1/8 of a turn. Run the rear up and down a cuople of gears making sure nothing rubs and adjust accordingly . Same with the front. That should do it! Also when changing to the big ring up front you should try to be on a middle to small cog on the rear so you don't get into a "cross chain" situation. When running on the small ring you should be on large to middle on the back. Hope that helps you out.

Sep 13, 2010 | Colnago Freeship Ferrari Cx-20 Bicycle...

1 Answer

GZ250 noise problem. Hi I hace a GZ250 marauder 2000 and when i ride up a hill or when i push the bike for more power it makes a clunking metal noise like a cog is slipping.could you help me please.


You might find that is your problem. If you look at the chain cogs and see that the teeth are pointed at the end you need to buy new cogs and a new chain. If the tips still heve straight edges, your chain could be very loose. Either way you need to sort out the problem as a broken chain at high speed is no fun. To adjust the chain, loosen the rear wheel and turn the adjusters to tighten the chain until you have about 3/4 inch freeplay. Make sure that the indicators on the side are against the same marks to ensure that the wheel is straight.

To replace the cogs and chain remove the back wheel and tap down the tabs that are used to lock the bolts in place and undo the bolts. To remove the front cog to will need to take off the cover. If your chain does not have a master link, the easiest way to remove it is to cut it off. Unless you knoe how many teeth your gos have, take them and the chain into a bike shop to get the right parts.

Mar 03, 2010 | 2000 Suzuki GZ 250 Marauder

1 Answer

How to run a new chain


start of by running chain over top of rear sprocket so sprocket turns anticlockwise around and over top of top cog then between top and bottom cog so chain is round back of bottom cog then under bottom of front chain wheel up and around antyclockwise through front gear mech if you have one then join 2 ends together with link extractor.

Dec 06, 2009 | Mountain Cycling

1 Answer

I have a 1998 Gt Aggressor 26" bicycle. When shifting in the large gears, it hesitates before shifting or does not shift at all and just clicks. Can you help?


sound like the shift adjustment need moving or the cable to be adjusted from gear shift to the cogs there are a couple of ways to do this first select the low gear so the cable is slack and then look where the cable connects to the cog shift if you loosen the nust holding the cable and pull a little cable through retighten and try shifting.. if this doesnt work look at the way the guide moves the chain across if you see the guide stopping before the chain goes onto the cog look closely and you will see two small screws on the arm one is to stop the guide going to far to the right and one to the left look at the one on the right that shlould be the one for the transit to the large gear cog if you undo the screw half a turn then try the gear shift again see of it move far enough to put the chanin on the cog if not undo a little more.. these screws work for both the small and large cog shifting so the same can be done for the small cog if the chain keeps coming off.. Good Luck A

Aug 04, 2009 | GT Bicycles Cycling

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