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The piece of cast metal that joins the carburettor to the engine has broken,perhaps because something heavy stored on it.Can I get a replacement part.

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This is a heat shield. You will need a MODEL, TYPE, and CODE off of the engine. You can order a replacement part HERE. Alternately, you can go into a mower repair shop and they may be able to get the part off of an old unit that has broken down.

Posted on Apr 03, 2011

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Is there a freeze plug between the engine and transmission?


To answer your question, there is no freeze plug between the engine and transmission. Freeze plugs are the result of the engine block's manufacturing process.

Whether you are manufacturing one engine block or thousands, the process is the same. An engine form is creating in a block of material. The form is a hollowed out reverse image of the engine into which molten metal is poured and allowed to cool and cure. When the engine mold form is cooled sufficiently, it is hauled out of the material and cleaned so that you have the engine casting. The engine casting is then cleaned further to remove rough spots and other imperfections.

After this and any further cleanings, the engine casting is sent further down the line for more work and assembly.

During the casting process, there are holes on the surface of the form through which the molten metal flows to fill the form. Once the engine form is filled, a small amount of material is allowed to fill the access tunnels and cap them off. When the casting is first removed from its form, it will have some metal "legs" that protrude from the bottom of the casting. Those "legs" are cut off near the surface of the casting. They are known as the freeze plugs. They plug the casting while it freezes or cools, thus the name freeze plugs.

Engines and transmissions are joined by the clutch and clutch plate in both manual and automatic versions. You can find further information about cars and repairs by looking at: www
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How do I identify and order the part I need fixed on my Kitchenaid K5?


It is called the Bowl support. It is part #4 on the diagram in the. Instruction manual.. I

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1 Answer

High consumption of fuel


If you have serviced the engine, changed oil and oil filter and air filter and spark plugs and cleaned the carburettor or cleaned your throttle body and injectors, and its still heavy on fuel then try the following. Adjust the carburettor air and fuel. Take off the distributor cap and clean the rotor and spark pionts in the cap of carbon build up by means of light sand paper. Same applies to the spark/ high tension leads and coil lead metal connection points. Check distributor timing as well. If the engine smokes, do a compression test. If results are beneath factory specifications, remove cylinder head, replace the valve stem seals and re-seat the valves and or replace the pistons and piston rings. Basically engine overhall

Apr 13, 2014 | 1999 Toyota Corolla

1 Answer

My exhaust is coming out at the front of the car not the rear


Do you mean broken off and stuck inside or broken off and fallen out? Broken off and fallen out in this case is a good thing. Sounds like you mean the exhaust is broken at the manifold but what isn't clear is which piece, the manifold or the exhaust pipe. The manifold is a part of the engine, the exhaust pipe is connected to the manifold via the flange you speak of so if it is broken (coming from the engine as a base point) before the flange you need to change the manifold (less likely - hardly ever breaks - usually made of cast iron or cast aluminium) or where they typically break just after the flange (exhaust pipes are notorious for rusting out here, you will need to replace the front exhaust pipe and donut (gasket within the flange). Due to the high heat in this area it is extremely common for the bolts holding the pipe to the manifold to not just be ceased to it (lube will probably do no good) but to actually weld (or forge if you will) themselves to the metal of the pipe, in which case you need to cut them out with a torch. A good mechanic can usually do this without damaging the manifold. That is why it is a good thing if they have broken off and fallen out, much easier to change then welded in bolts (which would not fall out). I say replace the front exhaust pipe because without knowing which year your protege is or if it has an after market exhaust I don't know for sure if it is a one piece system or more than one piece. If it is a one piece you will need to either change the whole thing or do some cutting and welding to piece a section in. In which case, I do not recommend cutting the new piece you purchase but if the old exhaust on the vehicle is in alright shape from the muffler back you may be able to section it off and just replace the front section. Piecing it together would require at least one more piece, one to contact the old pipe to the new which would also need to be welded on but this method can still be cheaper (most of the time). Anything other than a simple in/out replacement will require torches and obviously if the bolts are welded in it is not a simple in/out job.

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1 Answer

How and where do you adjust the synch on 1986 gsxr


I can help with this.
On the earliest models they had slide type carburettors. This is to say that the slides were actuated by the throttle cable acting on a linkage that physically lifts the slides in the carburettors. This type of carburettor has its balance(syncronization) adjusters under the caps on top of the carburettors.(the cap isn't round & has 3 screws in it)
Number three carburettor is fixed & dosn't get adjusted.

You'll have to put the bike next to a bench & attatch a long piece of fuel hose from the tank to the fuel hose on the carburettors.You can join the two pipes together using a short piece of hose that snuggly fits on the outside or inside of the two hoses. You can also join them with a suitable shirt piece of metal pipe,or what is called here in Australia a P3 barb.These are available from tool suppliers that supply air compressor hoses & fittings.
(I made a remote tank from an old lawnmower petrol tank,a long piece of hose & mounted it on a tall stand.Under it I have a tray with all my different adaptors in it.)

You adjust number 2 cylinder to the same vacume reading as number 3 cylinder first.
Now adjust number 1 cylinder to the same vacume reading as number 2 cylinder.
Next adjust number 4 cylinder to the same vacume reading as number 3 cylinder.
Recheck that they are all the same & your done.
The adjusters are of the screw & locknut(8mm)type.
You can struggle with an 8 mm ring spanner & a flat bladed screwdriver,buy an adjusting tool(genuine, or non-genuine from a bike shop) or make one.

To make one you weld a bar onto the side(at the top)of an 8mm extended quarter inch drive socket.Then find a long small screwdriver that will fit down the hole.

After you make each adjustment,stop the engine & open the throttle wide open & release a couple of times.(This seats the slide).After diong this re-start the engine & re-check your adjustment.
I place a fan blowing on the engine to help control the engine temperature as the adjustment can be a bit of a fiddle.

I prefer to use mercuary type vacume guages as they dont go out of calibration.

If you are using dial type guages check that they are all reading the same by checking them all one by one on the same cylinder.
Some Suzukis' have a pipe (covered with a black rubber stopper) at the top of each carburettor(at the front) & others have an allen screw on the cylinder in front of the carburettor manifold rubber.
If yours has the allen screw you will also need adaptors that screw into the hole once the allen screw is removed.

If you bike has diaphram type carburettors on it(you'll be able to recognise this by the top caps of the carburettors being black & roundish in shape & held in place by 4 screws), the adjusting screws are between each carburettor & are the spring loaded type.
The adjusters are located in-between each pair of carburettors visable from the top.
These are easier to adjust as there is no lock nut to struggle with & all you need to turn the adjusting screws is a long (flat or phillips)screwdriver.
Again, balance the center two first,then the left pair then the right pair.

This procedure is applicable to all in line 4 cylinder motorcycles (even most fuel injected ones.

Regards Andrew Porrelli

Nov 26, 2009 | 1986 Suzuki GSX-R 750 G

2 Answers

Broken hook on RM125 engine that holds clutch cable in place


You can see if it could be welded back on. It would need to be somewhere that can weld aluminum. If it is on a cover, replace the cover.

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2 Answers

Broken piece on an old Craftsman table saw


Boy I would be livid if it were my saw. I had a similar problem with a very old marine engine I resrored. A casting was damaged and not avalabled so I went to a machine shop who sent it or to be welded and than the shop tooled it. You can give it a try if you can't find the part. Good luck.

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1 Answer

Shredder flap has fallen off -- company no longer makes part


Those plastic tabs are so pesky. They always break.

You can try taking some wire, perhaps an old coat hanger, and cutting 2 lengths of 4-6" each. Then attach the wire pieces in place of where the tabs were using heavy tape, which should allow enough flexibility to get the new tabs back in the holes.

If the tabs were bigger/thicker than the coat hanger wire, go to the hardware store (Lowes, Home Depot, Ace, etc.) and ask to see the metal rods. Then just pick a piece of the right thickness and they'll probably even cut it for you with their chain cutting tool.

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Check out the rubber/metal flange that joins the carburettor to its manifold. Wait while the engine is cold. Then check if the carburettor moves . Do this by taking hold of the carburettor and moving it a little side to side. The rubber mounts are known to perish after a time and this can cause air to be sucked in through the cracked flange rubber and in turn causing the engine to drop revs. The flanges are a replacement part and not too expensive so its a relativley easy fix if this is the problem.
GOOD LUCK

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