Question about KitchenAid KSBS25IN Side by Side Refrigerator

3 Answers

KSBS 25IN kitchenaid. 5 yrs old. A few months ago I woke up to water on the floor under the refrigerator. It was enough to cause some warping in our hardwood floor. I cleaned up, shut off water supply to the fridge until I could spend some time with it. Last week I turned the water supply back on. No leaks. The door water worked fine but now no water is flowing to the ice maker. Any suggestions?

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  • tjozwiak994 Mar 27, 2011

    thank you. this morning we emptied the refrigerator and freezer completely and unplugged it. i thought that would be good to make sure any frozen tubes are thawed and also 'reset' any controls that might have gotten sideways. (of course, the wife thought it would be good for me to clean it also).

    so it has now been sitting like that with doors open for an hour. i am going to give it a few more hours just to make sure and then plug it back in. that should test the frozen tube theory.
    1. is the solenoid valve you refer to in the back lower corner on the freezer side?
    2. regarding icemaker issues, water never got into the ice tray. what can i do to troubleshoot ice maker issues from here?

  • tjozwiak994 Mar 27, 2011

    i located the solenoid assembly. i checked voltage on the feed to the ice maker solenoid, getting 0 V AC. so the refrigerator does not appear to be calling for water flow to the ice maker.

    i tried hooking up the water dispenser connector to the ice maker solenoid but it would not connect due to different sized connector.

    i did not try switching the hoses because i am not sure how the quick connect fitting works.

  • tjozwiak994 Mar 28, 2011

    i clicked on the link and it said the page i requested is no longer available.

  • tjozwiak994 Mar 28, 2011

    Full model number is KSBS25INSS00. The connections do not swap easily as the spades are different sizes and of course the known good connector does not accommodate the larger spades of the suspect solenoid. I did get the multimeter out per the troubleshooting guide - please note the following:

    1. Door Water solenoid that works fine shows 350 ohms
    2. Ice Maker solenoid does not register - open circuit.

    Also, i checked the leads inside the connectors.

    1. Door water connector shows 110Vac when lever calls for water
    2. Ice Maker connector shows 0 Vac.

    The ice maker is empty - shouldn't it be activating the solenoid for water? Or, does it only call for water when the ice maker is cycling?

  • tjozwiak994 Mar 28, 2011

    ok, thanks! i'm guessing to get a solenoid i will be purchasing the whole inlet solenoid assembly. i would like to run the ice maker through a few cycles by switching the electrical and the ice tray fill tube off the good solenoid to make sure everything else is working ok. the tube connections look like quick connect type. i am not familiar with how to remove and reinstall the tubing in those.

    ps, i am releasing the payment. i appreciate your thorough and rapid response.

  • tjozwiak994 Mar 29, 2011

    I am not sure actually. this is my first experience with fixya. i see that it switched over to you after a couple of messages between me and the first person. after that, i assumed it was the same tech (did not look close at the name). does fixya allow a few techs to work on the same problem with someone like me? Or am i hitting something that is causing the issue to bounce between a few of you guys?

  • tjozwiak994 Mar 31, 2011

    Hi Kelly, new valve is installed. Water dispenser works . Now what gets the ice maker side going so I can verify all is ok there?

  • tjozwiak994 Mar 31, 2011

    It's now been approx 8 hrs since the valve was installed. No ice. No water in the tray. By the way the refrigerator was turned back on saturday afternoon so it has been at temp for several days. The valve was replaced around 9 last night.

  • tjozwiak994 Apr 08, 2011

    back from a little vacation. i removed ice maker assembly but left harness connected. i disassembled the tray so that i could get to the T and H jumper holes. i turned off circuit breaker. i jumpered T & H. turned breaker back on. unit did not cycle at all. do i need to close the door switch or the optics flap?

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3 Answers

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  • KitchenAid Master
  • 3,740 Answers

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.

Here is a quick way to determine if the problem is the water valve or circuits in the refrigerator. Open the fiber board cover that covers the back bottom of the refrigerator. Locate the inlet water valve and very carefully pull off the 2 terminal connectors on the solenoids and swap their installed positions. Then when you actuate the water in the door water should flow to the ice maker if the inlet water valve is good. If it does flow to the ice maker then you need to suspect the ice maker or wiring as the problem. If it water does NOT flow into the ice maker the inlet water valve / solenoid has failed. MAKE SURE you install the water valve connectors back onto their original positions and re-install the fiberboard cover after cleaning things up a bit.

Just a note... if you removed power to do the connector transfer... each time you unplug the unit you must wait 15 minutes before plugging it back in so the coolant system can stabilize internal pressures and the compressor will re-start normally.

I did a model search and your model number is missing several digits on the end of the number. For the sake of ice maker / and water in door troubleshooting it does not matter at this time. When it comes time to look up specific parts of order parts a complete model number is a must. I am using this model number as a troubleshooting reference:
KSBS25INBL03

The inlet water valve is common to all units of this size and is item 5 of this link:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5136038&diagram_id=28155742#d28155742

Here is one of 2 links to help you in troubleshooting your Ice maker:
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=12&newsdesk_id=34
and
http://applianceassistant.com/pdf/inDoorIceSystem.pdf (8.43 mb)

Just be advised that the troublshooting involves using a jumper on an energzed circuit of the ice maker. So make sure you use an INSULATED jumper! I use a short piece of #14 house wiring and strip off each end.

I still think you probably just have a problem with the inlet water valve but you will prove that by perfoing the steps I mentioned and the steps in the manuals. NOTE the part about taping the door switch down. The ice maker will not work with the door open unless you perform the switch taping.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Posted on Mar 28, 2011

  • 4 more comments 
  • Kelly
    Kelly Mar 28, 2011

    Use this link:

    http://www.american-appliance.com/catalo...

    Jumper T to H on the ice maker module and the ice maker should begin to cycle after the motor rotates about 30 - 45 deg pull out the jumper



    The fill cycle cycle for the icemaker is actuated somewhere between the "sweep fingers" being horizontal with the ice tray to about the 11:30 o'clock position The ice maker inlet water solenoid is only energized for 8 to 10 seconds so you would have to jumper T to H start the harvest cycle then probe the wires on the solenoid connector and wait for that 8 to 10 seconds of power.



    If your good with wires and terminals you can make a test cord for the solenoid out of an old household extension wire by cutting off the recepticle end and adding the two female bayonet terminals. Then just plug it BRIEFLY briefly into an outlet. The solenoid will power up and you should get water to the ice maker. No water... with test cord & no Buzz = bad water valve.



    Kelly

  • Kelly
    Kelly Mar 28, 2011

    Your comment:

    2. Ice Maker solenoid does not register - open circuit.



    You just found the problem.... You need a new inlet water valve.



    Sorry for my last response I somehow missed the obvious solution until I re-read your last post of 55 minutes ago.



    Kelly

  • Kelly
    Kelly Mar 29, 2011

    Hi again.

    The water line connections are cheesy at best. The hoses are held in by a star washer. If you look at the old valve there will be a white collar at the base where the water line is PUSHED into the water valve. Lift the collar (<-stays retained) out about 1/4" away from the old water valve and then just PULL the water line out for EACH connection. If it doesn't budge (lift up) then just pull out the water line. Sometimes they do not release from the body / star washer and you end up damaging the plastic line using your hands. If yours puts up a fuss... just cut the line clean by using a knife on top of the collar when the collar is pressed IN /flat against the OLD inlet water valve body. When you install the new water valve the line just PUSH into place again with the collar raised. WAIT... Start the line into the hole... raise the collar... (if possible)... do NOT break the collar and press in each of the water lines. Once the line stops going in press the collar down flat against the body of the water valve to lock the star washer against the plastic tubing so that it will not shoot out of the water valve. It is a pretty simple process. The hardest part of the job is getting the mounting screw out and the old lines off. It is best to do a ONE for ONE line swap onto the new water valve so that you do not get the water in door and ice maker water fill tubes reversed. Last comment... the solenoids can not be replaced individually. They can but you have to almost be a metal skilled worker to do it. The replacement parts are only sold as a complete water valve and it is best to just buy the whole assembly because over time the diaphragms inside the water valve harden and end up laking water by on the ice maker fill side. That causes sheets of ice to form in the ice bin or worse yet... the ice maker to keep water flowing and eventually cause a pool of water under the refrigerator when the drain pan over flows. The same thing can happen with water in door... you get a glass of cold water and then the water does not stop dripping so water overfills the catch tray and you have water streaks on the front of the freezer door or pooling water on the floor.



    Good job on the troubleshooting!



    Kelly

  • Kelly
    Kelly Mar 31, 2011

    Hi again,

    The ice maker has to reach 14 to 16 deg F before it begins the first harvest cycle. Needless tosay it can be more 8 hours before you see your first batch of usable ice but within 24 hours you should see normal operation again. The water line has air in it and it will need to self purge so the first and batch of ice can be really small. Do not adjust anything just let it cycle normally and if by this time tomorrow you do not have ice let me know. Since you did a total defrosting of the unit the first 2 days it should get cold enough to make the ice maker work. Watch in 2 to 3 days to see if the freezer temp starts rising. If it does then you may have an automatic defrosting problem also. We can troubleshoot that if it presents itself. Just respond here with your observations.



    Take care,

    Kelly




  • Kelly
    Kelly Mar 31, 2011

    Here is what you can do...



    Pull the cover off of the icemaker and jumper " T " to " H " After 10 seconds remove the jumper and see if the ice maker continues to cycle. If if stops the ice maker thermostat in the ice maker has failed. However it may just cycle ONCE and not make any more ice after that. If it cycles ONCE and never makes any more ice the problem is the thermostat for sure.



    The thermostat is item 27 of this image:

    http://media.fotki.com/1_p,swtwqfskwbwdf...



    You have to disconnect the electrical harness (Item 32) and remove the ice maker module By unscrewing the 3 phillips head screws (Item 30) from the face of the module. The shut off arm (Item 31) must be slid out of the ice maker module to remove the module. Then you will see the thermostat that you lift out of the ice make mold (item 20).



    The part number for the thermostat is PN 627985 and can be found here: ($14.95)

    http://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-627985-I...

    (other places want ($30 - $35 for this same thermostat)



    I passed you the manuals to troubleshoot the icemaker and part of that troubleshooting is to test the thermostat.

    This is the link for the 8.43 MB manual:

    http://www.affordableappliance.com/Downl...

    I just tested the links above and below and they BOTH work.

    The other link I passed was this one:

    http://www.american-appliance.com/catalo...



    The ice maker must be at 17 Deg + or - 3 deg for you to read the ice maker thermostat for continuity by reading T to H. If your sure it is 17 Deg or colder in the freezer and you read T to H with an infinity / open reading the thermostat is bad.



    Kelly

  • Kelly
    Kelly Apr 08, 2011

    Door switch in most cases has to have the plunger depressed. (Tape it down) You will only read the power to the solenoid for about 8 - 10 seconds when the sweep fingers are somewhere between 10 and 11 oclock postions as they rotate. I cheat... I use a test cord and a light bulb plugged into the ice maker solenoit connector with the solenoid disconnected. That way the light just comes on for 8 to 10 seconds and I don't miss it.



    Kelly

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  • Expert
  • 262 Answers

Either the ice maker is not calling for water or the water supply valve is not working. The water supply valve has two coils on it. One for the dispenser and one for the ice maker.
Check out the ice maker procedure on my tips and how to's.It will show you how to check both.

See my tips and how to's for your answer

Please consider giving us a four thumbs up for our rating!

Using fixya and this procedure has saved you a minimum of $125.00!

kdrake84
Rank: Guru
Rating: 95%, 98 vote

Click on the link below.....
Ice maker repair http://www.fixya.com/support/r8753658-whirlpool_style_ice_maker_repair

Posted on Mar 28, 2011

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  • Keith Drake
    Keith Drake Mar 28, 2011

    I haven't a clue as to why fixya decided to discontinue my link....anyway...here is the new link

    See my tips and how to's for your answer

    Please consider giving us a four thumbs up for our rating!

    Using FixYa and this procedure has saved you a minimum of $125.00!

    kdrake84
    Rank: Guru
    Rating: 95%, 96 vote


    Click on the link below.....


    See my tips and how to's for your answer

    Please consider giving us a four thumbs up for our rating!

    Using FixYa and this procedure has saved you a minimum of $125.00!

    kdrake84
    Rank: Guru
    Rating: 95%, 96 vote

    Click on the link below.....

  • Keith Drake
    Keith Drake Mar 28, 2011

    Have you checked the new link for the ice maker repair and troubleshooting guide?



    If not....here is a link that will show you how to test the water valve.

    click on the link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AlYCJr9dc...



    here is the new link again....

    See my tips and how to's for your answer

    Please consider giving us a four thumbs up for our rating!

    Using FixYa and this procedure has saved you a minimum of $125.00!

    kdrake84
    Rank: Guru
    Rating: 95%, 96 vote


    Click on the link below.....

  • Keith Drake
    Keith Drake Mar 29, 2011

    Sometimes it is hard to follow the conversation. Are you communicating with me or another tech?
    kdrake84

  • Keith Drake
    Keith Drake Mar 29, 2011

    Usually when one tech is with a customer a message will tell any other tech's that the question is locked to another tech. I never received a message stating that. If my videos helped you then I would be the tech that should have been paid...if another tech was responsible for helping you then he/she should be paid. I was given "customer rejected payment"...which is o.k. unless my procedures helped you.

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  • Master
  • 1,961 Answers

There are possible reasons:
1. There is a problem with the water valve
2. The fill tube can freeze up
3. The icemaker itself can fail

If you look closely with the water valve, while the water supply is back, do you hear a humming sounds near the valve. If yes, then it will need replacement.

Posted on Mar 27, 2011

  • Danilo Baraquiel
    Danilo Baraquiel Mar 27, 2011

    for your question #1. Yes the solenoid valve can be found at the back.
    the image of the water valve assembly is similar to this picture

    To troubleshoot if the water valve is the problem:
    Locate the water inlet valve on the back of the refrigerator and swap
    the wires between the ice maker and water dispenser solenoids.
    Shut off water to the Fridge.

    Disconnect the water line to the ice maker.

    Put the ice maker water line into a glass or container.

    Press the
    water dispenser lever and check if the ice maker got water.
    When the "Water Inlet Valve" calls for water, water will be dumped

    into the container.

    When you are getting water on the ice maker then it means that water inlet valve is ok.
    If no water, replace the Water Inlet Valve


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