Question about Kenmore Dryers

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Changad out heater element, replaced the rear drum seal cleaned all components. check the continueity on the thermal fuses they are in .5 on my ohm meter. But I still have no heat, even though the dryer runs. is there somethiung that I am missing?

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  • stargazert01 Mar 26, 2011

    kenmore 110.66732500

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  • Kenmore Master
  • 2,122 Answers

What is the brand name and model number?on some models there are relays in the top console one for the motor and one for the heater or even heat board is bad,also check at the block where the plug connects to the machine and make sure you have 220 to 240 volts coming to the dryer,you could have a problem with the house braker,also,get a meter unplug the dryer,remove at least one of the wires you're going to check with the meter,touch the connectors to the part,if you get any reading the part is good,no reading it's bad,checking for continuity is simple and saves you money because you're not changing out good parts,send the model number

Posted on Mar 26, 2011

  • 3 more comments 
  • Sal DeAngelo Mar 26, 2011

    you have a dryer with the lint filter on top,unplug the dryer ,pull it away from the wall,remove the vent line and remove the back panel,on the left side you'll see the metal duct that the lint filter slides into,to the right of it and around 4 inches up from the floor you'll see a white piece of plastic,that's the thermal fuse part number 3392519,pull at least one wire off of it and check it with your meter,you can set it on 20k,touch both leads to the fuse,if it stays one number 1 it's no good,any other reading it's good,if it is good,go to the heater box and do the same to the thermostats on the heater box and also to the heater,pull at least one wire off to get true reading,if the thermal fuse was bad you have to remove the duct that the filter slides into and clean it out,if your vent line is a long run blow it out with a leaf blower,first go outside and make sure the duct is open and then go back inside,stick the leaf blower into the vent line and blow it out.let me know what you find.

  • Sal DeAngelo Mar 26, 2011

    also make sure the dryer is unplugged before you touch it

  • Sal DeAngelo Mar 27, 2011

    did you do any checks on the dryer?let me know how you make out.

  • Sal DeAngelo Mar 27, 2011

    unplug the dryer,you have a dryer with the lint filter on top,unplug the dryer ,pull it away from the wall,remove the vent line and remove the back panel,on the left side you'll see the metal duct that the lint filter slides into,to the right of it and around 4 inches up from the floor you'll see a white piece of plastic,that's the thermal fuse part number 3392519,pull at least one wire off of it and check it with your meter,you can set it on 20k,touch both leads to the fuse,if it stays one number 1 it's no good,any other reading it's good,if it is good,go to the heater box and do the same to the thermostats on the heater box and also to the heater,pull at least one wire off to get true reading,if the thermal fuse was bad you have to remove the duct that the filter slides into and clean it out,if your vent line is a long run blow it out with a leaf blower,first go outside and make sure the duct is open and then go back inside,stick the leaf blower into the vent line and blow it out.let me know what you find

  • Sal DeAngelo Mar 30, 2011

    what did you find wrong with the dryer?

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1 Answer

Why is my dryer running, but not heating up or drying the clothes?


ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:

Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or overheating.

Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.html

Jun 23, 2014 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Sears dryer, model# 110.87562601.


ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:

Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or overheating.
Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,
Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.
Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.html

Jun 23, 2014 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer drum works but does not heat. Everything else works. I have checked the fuse and I have made sure it is not on air dry.


THERMAL FUSES MAY BE THE CAUSE OF THIS In recent years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses are located on the heater element housing and should read continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air flow problems or a grounded heating element. Follow the diagram below to see how to check the continuity of the switch, and look closely at the switch to see a fairly close idea of what you are looking for, ok

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OR it could be a thermostat.
Cycle and safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show continuity .

or lastly, it might be
the Heat elements-Test heater element with an ohm meter. You will read continuity across a good element ( 8-12 ohms is an average element ).

IF you do not have an OHM-METER, then you can check these issues by following the directions below:

To check the thermal fuse - You can bypass the thermal fuse (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.

To check the thermal cut-out - You can bypass the thermal cut-out (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.


To check the thermostats for continuity - - You can bypass the thermostat (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.

To check the Element: Try removing element and physically looking at the element wire for a break in the wire.


Do not forget to rate this answer!!

Jan 24, 2011 | Frigidaire Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer runs but does not got hot, therefore does not properly dry clothes. I checked the heater element and it is good. Any suggestions?


The Most common problem is a bad thermal fuse.

1 the thermal fuses are located in the cabinet of the dryer under the drum
they can also be located on the front of the blower wheel housing. on the back wall of the dryer or along the heating element can.
2. some kenmore, whirlpool machines have these fuses located in the rear of the machine.especially when the lint filter is located in the top of the dryer.
3. the heating element can also be bad.
4. if you have an ohm meter you can check the continuity of the thermal fuses,as well as the heating element.if there is no continuity on any of the above mentioned parts. Replace the faulty parts.

Jan 10, 2011 | GE WSM2420T Top Load Stacked Washer /...

2 Answers

Dryer drum will turn but not heat up any suggestions? purchased a ohm meter and removed the back panel not sure how to test for continuity(power has been disconnected!) Fairly new dryer please help


If the model number is correct, your heating circuits are comprised of the following components:

1. Heating Element
2. Thermal Cut-Out
3. Hi-Limit Thermostat
4. Internal Bias Thermostat
5. Thermal Fuse

You can access your heating circuits by UNPLUGGING the dryer and removing the rear panel.

As viewed from the rear of the dryer, your Heating Element will be located on the RIGHT hand side inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out will be located on the outside of the heater box at the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

The Internal Bias Thermostat and Thermal Fuse are two small components mounted on the Blower Fan housing on the lower LEFT hand side.

You can refer to the following parts illustration for assistance:

http://pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php

The components are listed as follows:

Heating Element (Item 17)
Thermal Cut-Out (Item 6)
Hi-Limit Thermostat (Item 15)
Internal-Bias Thermostat (Item 20)
Thermal Fuse (Item 19)

If you need assistance on how to troubleshoot a dryer, you can refer to this link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice

The MOST common causes of heat related problems: 1. Blown Thermal Cut-Out 2. Missing 1/2 your input voltage at the wall receptacle (the dryer will still run with half the voltage missing, but won't heat - double check your source voltage at the receptacle and/or your circuit breakers. 3. Bad power cord, causing 1/2 the input voltage to be missing. 4. Blown heating element. Read through all the information provided and let me know if you have any questions, or need further assistance. I hope you find this information helpful. NOTE: Take all resistance readings with the dryer UNPLUGGED and the component under test isolated (meaning disconnect any wire leads to ensure the accuracy of your readings).

Mar 30, 2010 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Kenmore electric dryer model number 86860100 dryer not heating.....cleaned out vents not the problem....everything else seems to work.. I had seen in the past it glow in back of the dryer so I turned out...


hello there:
Testing with an ohm meter checking on a dryer....
These are the places that pass voltage to the heater elements on an electric dryer. In order to check a dryer for no heat, here is a list of places to check. Remember to always unplug the appliance before starting testing with an ohm meter. Always remove wires from the part you are testing with an ohm meter ( write down what goes where first before removing any wires ).
Meter testing and usage tips.
1. Power supply-check power supply at terminal block where cord enters the dryer. Should read 240V. If you read 240V here, tested with a volt meter, unplug dryer and test components with ohm meter.
2. Thermostats-Cycle and safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show continuity . How common thermostats work.
3.Timer-The timer has a set of contacts that pass voltage to the heaters. If you can not determine by wiring picture what they are, check across the two terminals with the largest wires on them. The heater wires are almost twice as large as the others. You should read continuity with timer in heat mode.
4. Thermal fuses-In recent years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses are located on the heater element housing and should read continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air flow problems or a grounded heating element.
5. Selector Switches-Read the wiring picture and determine which switch is closed. You should read continuity across closed switches.
6. Safety Switch on Motor-There is a safety switch on motor to insure that heaters can not come on unless motor is running. It is normally open when the motor is idle/not running, and closes when motor runs. In order to check with an ohm meter, remove the two large wires on motor switch and make them electrically safe. Tape them. Plug the dryer in and start motor. Check continuity across the terminals on the motor switch you removed the heavy wires from. If it is ok you should read continuity. Remember that the smaller wires in a dryer carry the 120V and the large wires carry 240V. There is no voltage on these two terminals with wires removed. It is ok to test with ohm meter.
7. Heat elements-Test heater element with an ohm meter. You will read continuity across a good element 8-12 OHMS

Jan 09, 2010 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

The dryer is not heating


Hello there here is a list of things to check
Testing with an ohm meter checking on a dryer....
These are the places that pass voltage to the heater elements on an electric dryer. In order to check a dryer for no heat, here is a list of places to check. Remember to always unplug the appliance before starting testing with an ohm meter. Always remove wires from the part you are testing with an ohm meter ( write down what goes where first before removing any wires ).
Meter testing and usage tips.
1. Power supply-check power supply at terminal block where cord enters the dryer. Should read 240V. If you read 240V here, tested with a volt meter, unplug dryer and test components with ohm meter.
2. Thermostats-Cycle and safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show continuity . How common thermostats work.
3.Timer-The timer has a set of contacts that pass voltage to the heaters. If you can not determine by wiring picture what they are, check across the two terminals with the largest wires on them. The heater wires are almost twice as large as the others. You should read continuity with timer in heat mode.
4. Thermal fuses-In recent years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses are located on the heater element housing and should read continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air flow problems or a grounded heating element.
5. Selector Switches-Read the wiring picture and determine which switch is closed. You should read continuity across closed switches.
6. Safety Switch on Motor-There is a safety switch on motor to insure that heaters can not come on unless motor is running. It is normally open when the motor is idle/not running, and closes when motor runs. In order to check with an ohm meter, remove the two large wires on motor switch and make them electrically safe. Tape them. Plug the dryer in and start motor. Check continuity across the terminals on the motor switch you removed the heavy wires from. If it is ok you should read continuity. Remember that the smaller wires in a dryer carry the 120V and the large wires carry 240V. There is no voltage on these two terminals with wires removed. It is ok to test with ohm meter.
7. Heat elements-Test heater element with an ohm meter. You will read continuity across a good element ( 8-12 ohms is an average element ).
But darn it, I don't have a Ohm Meter....
To check the thermal fuse - You can bypass the thermal fuse (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only. To check the thermal cut-out - You can bypass the thermal cut-out (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
To check the thermostats for continuity - - You can bypass the thermostat (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
To check the Element: Try removing element and physically looking at the element wire for a break in the wire.

How to take apart information for GE style dryers
How to take apart information for Inglis - Whirlpool - Kenmore dryers
How to take apart information for Maytag dryers
How to take apart information for Frigidaire and White Westinghouse


Jan 09, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

The dryer will not heat


This is probably caused by a burned thermal fuse or faulty heating element. The thermal fuse is located just inside the rear of the dryer and is usually attached to the exhaust duct. It is about one inch long. The thermal fuse and heating element can be tested using a multimeter or ohm meter. Check for continuity. If either component has no continuity, that component is bad and will need to be replaced. Sure hope this helped and best wishes.

Aug 02, 2009 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer does not dry. Motoer runs.


This is typically caused by a faulty thermal fuse or a bad heating element. The thermal fuse is located inside the rear of the dryer and is usually attached to the exhaust duct. It is about an inch long. Both the thermal fuse and the heating element can be tested using an ohm meter or multimeter. Check for continuity. If either component does not have continuity, it is defective and must be replaced. Hope this helped and best wishes.

Jul 30, 2009 | Maytag Dryers

1 Answer

Kitchenaid superba dryer won't heat Where is the heater fuse located?


Q - My electric dryer runs but will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug.
A ohm meter test for these parts is here.
Q - My gas dryer will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a gas dryer from heating:
- glow bar igniter, thermal fuse ( not all models ), coils on the gas valve, gas valve, thermostats,motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, sensor.
A page for checking gas dryers is here.
Meter testing and usage tips.
1. Power supply-check power supply at terminal block where cord enters the dryer. Should read 240V. If you read 240V here, tested with a volt meter, unplug dryer and test components with ohm meter.
2. Thermostats-Cycle and safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show continuity . How common thermostats work.
3.Timer-The timer has a set of contacts that pass voltage to the heaters. If you can not determine by wiring picture what they are, check across the two terminals with the largest wires on them. The heater wires are almost twice as large as the others. You should read continuity with timer in heat mode.
4. Thermal fuses-In recent years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses are located on the heater element housing and should read continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air flow problems or a grounded heating element.
5. Selector Switches-Read the wiring picture and determine which switch is closed. You should read continuity across closed switches.
6. Safety Switch on Motor-There is a safety switch on motor to insure that heaters can not come on unless motor is running. It is normally open when the motor is idle/not running, and closes when motor runs. In order to check with an ohm meter, remove the two large wires on motor switch and make them electrically safe. Tape them. Plug the dryer in and start motor. Check continuity across the terminals on the motor switch you removed the heavy wires from. If it is ok you should read continuity. Remember that the smaller wires in a dryer carry the 120V and the large wires carry 240V. There is no voltage on these two terminals with wires removed. It is ok to test with ohm meter.
7. Heat elements-Test heater element with an ohm meter. You will read continuityacross a good element ( 8-12 ohms is an average element ).
But darn it, I don't have a Ohm Meter....
To check the thermal fuse  - You can bypass the thermal fuse (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.To check the thermal cut-out  - You can bypass the thermal cut-out (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
To check the thermostats for continuity -  - You can bypass the thermostat (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
To check the Element: Try removing element and physically looking at the element wire for a break in the wire.

How to take apart information for GE style dryers
How to take apart information for Inglis - Whirlpool - Kenmore dryers
How to take apart information for Maytag dryers
How to take apart information for Frigidaire and White Westinghouse
How to take apart information for Admiral, Norge, Magic Chef and Crosley

Mar 30, 2009 | KitchenAid Dryers

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