Clutch wont depress or go into gear. bell housing cracked

It sounds like the clutch is not disengaging when depressed. What is the year make and model? It most likely has a hydraulic clutch. Many vehicles have the clutch slave cylinder inside the bell housing of the transmission. This means that the fluid line to the slave cylinder was removed to remove the transmission. If a new slave cylinder was installed when the clutch was replaced (this is a good idea to do when servicing a clutch with a bell housing internal slave cylinder) then the system will need to be bled to remove air from the system and allow the clutch disengagement to function properly.

It's a manual transmission, then? If it is, your clutch is not working. You need to check at the transmission's bell housing to see if the clutch pedal being depressed causes the clutch fork to move-either forward or backward, it should move about an inch with the pedal pushed to the floor.. The clutch pedal will either be cable operated, or it will be a hydraulic clutch with a clutch master cylinder on the firewall, and a steel tube going down to the bell housing, where a small "slave cylinder" operates the clutch fork.

If you see the clutch fork move a fair amount, at least an inch, then you probably need a new clutch disc and pressure plate. A clutch job means removing the transmission to replace the clutch.

If the clutch fork does not move, either the cable has too much slack-for cable operated clutches, or the hydraulic unit has a problem-for hydraulic operated clutches. One of your hydraulic cylinders may be bad, either the clutch master cylinder or the slave cylinder.

Hydraulic clutches do that when the master or slave cylinder go bad.Start by replacing the slave cylinder down on the bell housing.After replaced,fill the clutch master cylinder with brake fluid,crack the valve on the side of the slave open and hold your finger over the tip while a helper slowly depresses the clotch pedal.Once you get fluid from the tip,close the valve and refill the master cylinder.Good to go.

some of these were manual clutch cable check adjustment of cable at firewall (bulkhead) and check for cracks around where cable goes through to inside cab common on old girls.
if hydraulic clutch system
check fluid in clutch master cylinder is it low?
it could have leaking slave cylinder on gear box bell housing or your clutch needs replacing, gear box out and replace clutch as a kit, pressure plate, clutch plate, thrust bearing (comes as kit) but dont forget to check and or replace the spigot bearing in the rear of the crank shaft when doing clutch kit.

you pulled the transaxle and replace the clutch disc, pressure plate and throwout bearing< really?
the first thing, for all hydr. clutch actuators is to test it with 2 persons.
you depress clutch
and person two ganders at the clutch lever into bell housing. of trans-axle. then sees if it moves 3/.4 to 1 inch. if not , the MC or slave
clutch actuator is bad. replace it.
is the clutch MC reseviour. low? or empty

The gear box should be okay. Check the clutch-watch if the clutch fork on the bell housing moves when someone presses the clutch. If it doesn't move, the cable needs adjusting, or if hydraulic clutch diagnose the clutch master and slave cylinders. Either one should cause the clutch fork to move and engage the clutch.

it depends how bad the crack is most bell housing for the ****** will work fine with a crack had a piece missing from mine no problem maybe just have a bad clutch

Have you just replaced the clutch? Taken out the transaxle, and put it back in? Are you sure transmission was in good condition before this? If so, review your procedure carefully to be sure you got it all back right.
Watch the slave cylinder while someone depresses clutch. You should see the little plunger move slightly out and move the clutch lever back. The lever moves the release bearing inside bell housing into contact with the pressure plate. If slave cylinder doesn't move at all, try bleeding again. The plunger has to move when clutch is engaged.
I'm not sure what you mean by "will shift but won't go into gear". You mean it's actually going into a gear position and car won't move? Or it won't go into any gear, period. As if you had no clutch?

My '86 5.0 was a cable controlled clutch no slave or master cylinders. Make sure the throwout lever is seated properly, and check for movement when the clutch pedal is depressed. It should move at least .75 inches when depressed. Also make sure the bell housing is mating up to the engine completely and all bolts are tight. If all these things are ok it could be an improperly installed or wrong throwout bearing. I hope this helps. I remember what a pain that job was when I did mine esp. that screwy cable pulley thing attached to the clutch pedal. Which also may be the problem. Good luck.

Probably the arm that holds the rtelease bearing in the bell housing has slipped out of place. Get someone to depress the clutch while you check the arm is not loose. If the cylinders are working then its most likely the arm is disconected. If you are lucky you may get it put back in place by looking through the inspection hole but most likely you will have to seperate the engine and gearbox. Sorry I havent better news for you.