Question about Kenmore Dishwashers

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Kenmore 58715142402 Dishwasher. I noticed dishes were caked in detergent, so looked into it further and found out that there is basically no water coming into the dishwasher. Used multimeter and watched throughout the whole wash cycle and most of wash had no voltage at water inlet valve. There were a couple times near the end of the normal wash, I think it was during a drain cycle that there was about 1/2 of the 120 volts that should be at the water inlet valve, and I opened door and saw a little water coming into the dishwasher. The float isn't sticking and moves freely. You can hear the switch in the float click when moving it up and down. What else controls the power at the water inlet valve?

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  • ASETechMN Mar 26, 2011

    What switch?

  • ASETechMN Mar 26, 2011

    How do you check the timer switch?

  • ASETechMN Mar 26, 2011

    Everything checks out good with that, pressing on the switch changed continutity from infinity to 0. So what next?

  • ASETechMN Mar 26, 2011

    I forgot to mention I replaced the water inlet valve earlier today just off a hunch. But my valve ohms out it just isn't getting power to it.

  • ASETechMN Mar 26, 2011

    Forgot to mention I replaced water inlet valve earlier today on a hunch, but problem is lack of power to the valve.

  • ASETechMN Mar 26, 2011

    I did check the float switch continuity and it is good. No luck finding any service tech sheet. What controls the power to the water valve?

  • ASETechMN Mar 27, 2011

    Ok, I have looked everywhere and can't find the tech sheet but the two wires coming off the inlet water valve - pink wire goes to float switch and white wire goes to what looks like a drain valve solenoid, not sure thats technically what its called but its an electrical component connected to drain hoses.

  • ASETechMN Mar 27, 2011

    The part the white wire goes to is number 60 on this diagram. http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdir...

  • ASETechMN Mar 27, 2011

    Good news, the float switch didn't have any voltage, so i followed the pink wire to the timer where i found the tech sheet. The tech sheet schematic shows power going from the power bus through the timer to the float switch then to the water valve. So it must be a bad timer then? Is there a way I can check for continutity?

  • ASETechMN Mar 27, 2011

    Thanks! Very Helpful!

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2 Answers

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  • 262 Answers

1.) Check the float switch for continuity

2.) check for a service tech sheet either inside of the toe panel (lower front panel)
or somewhere inside of the bottom or on the side of the unit.

3.)Trace the valve power back to the timer/control

4.) Check for power from control to water valve.

I bet it is the float switch

here is a video for the water valve and float switch click on the link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zv22rpcthy4

Please post results for float switch and if you found the service tech sheet.

I will continue to look for service manaul and or wiring diagram.

Keith

Posted on Mar 26, 2011

  • 3 more comments 
  • Keith Drake
    Keith Drake Mar 26, 2011

    So that leaves us with the timer part number 8 on the diagram I have posted.

    Click on the link http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdir...



    Have you looked/found the tech sheet yet?



    I'm still looking for service manual or wiring diagram.



    The tech sheet will have a print for us to work off of.

  • Keith Drake
    Keith Drake Mar 26, 2011

    The key here is the wiring diagram.Tech Sheet.
    Or you will need to trace back the two wires on the water valve and see where they lead to.
    Only way to do this.
    I can not find anything on this model.

  • Keith Drake
    Keith Drake Mar 27, 2011

    The timer tells the water valve when to come on and the float will cut the power to the water valve.

  • Keith Drake
    Keith Drake Mar 27, 2011

    I'm thinking the white wire to the drain pump must be a neutral wire and the pink must be the hot wire.Trace it back off of the float switch....find the next hook up....test for power to the float switch if you have 120vac there but not at the water valve you know the switch must be bad. If you do not have power there then you know you will need to trace back the pink wire further.

  • Keith Drake
    Keith Drake Mar 27, 2011

    No need to...the timer supplys power to the float switch...if the float switch is not getting power then timer is bad. You can however try cleaning the timers contacts....sometimes this will work. But sure enough it is the timer that is not supplying power to the float switch.

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  • 1,114 Answers

What you need to replace is the switch.

Posted on Mar 26, 2011

  • 2 more comments 
  • Charles Huckeba
    Charles Huckeba Mar 26, 2011

    The switch that I was referring to was the timer switch, but if that is working then you are either looking at a faulty float assembly, or a float switch. These are the two things that control the water in let on the machine.

  • Charles Huckeba
    Charles Huckeba Mar 26, 2011





    Your float assembly is found inside the dishwasher's tub, on the bottom. The water that fills your dishwasher lifts the float, and when it reaches a certain level, it acts as a trigger for the float switch. The float triggers the float switch to shut off, thereby shutting off the flow of water into the dishwasher. A defective switch may interfere with your dishwasher's filling and/or draining ability.

    You can gain access to your switch by removing the lower kickplate panel located just below the dishwasher door. This panel is usually held in place with a few screws. You might need to open the dishwasher door to gain access to and remove the screws. The door will have to be closed again so that you can remove the panel.

    A dishwasher's float switch will sit below the float assembly. So find your float assembly inside your dishwasher, and your switch will be located directly below it in the access area. It will likely be either on the left or the right hand side. There are going to be two wires connected to the float switch. They are connected with slip-on connectors. Its a good idea to label these wires so that you are able to correctly reconnect them later. Grasp the slip-on connectors and pull firmly to remove the wires from the switch. Do not pull on the wires themselves. You may want to use a pair of needle nose pliers to help you.

    Use your multitester to test the switch. Set the device to the ohms setting x 1. Take each probe and touch them to one switch terminal each. This should produce a reading of either zero or infinity. Continue to touch the probes to the terminals, and press down on the switch's button. The reading should change to the opposite extreme.

    If your switch fails either of these tests, you should replace it.

  • Charles Huckeba
    Charles Huckeba Mar 26, 2011

    I would also recommend that you check the water inlet valve.You will be able to identify the water inlet valve by the hoses that connect to it. There will be one hose feeding water from the house to the water valve, and another hose leading from the water valve that carries water away. Now is a good time to inspect your dishwasher's hoses, to make sure they aren't responsible for any water flow problems. Make sure the hoses are securely connected to the valve. Also check to make sure there are not kinks in the hoses. Kinks can impede the flow of water.There will be two wires connected to the water inlet valve. If your dishwasher's water inlet valve has two solenoids, then there will be four wires. Label the wires so that you will be able to correctly reconnect them later. The wires are connected using slip-on connectors. Grasp the connectors and pull on them firmly in order to disconnect the wires from the valve's terminals. Do not pull on the wires themselves. You may want to use a pair of needle nosed pliers to help you.Use your multitester to test the valve for continuity. Set the device to the ohms setting x 1. Touch each of the meter's probes to a terminal. If you receive a reading of infinity, it means the valve's solenoid is faulty and the valve needs to be replaced. If your valve has two solenoids (four terminals), test the second pair of terminals in the same manner. If either pair of terminals receives a result of infinity, replace the water inlet valve.

  • Charles Huckeba
    Charles Huckeba Mar 26, 2011

    A door switch is a simple on/off mechanism that prohibits the dishwasher from operating when the door is open. Dishwasher door switches are only an inch long. Most are black in color and all have metal prongs, called terminals, extending out from the body of the switch.

    Some door switches have only two metal prongs extending from the body, while others have three. Those with three terminals will have a common (COM) terminal, a normally closed (N.C.) terminal, and a normally open (N.O.) terminal. Those switches with only two terminals will have either a common terminal and a normally open terminal, or a common terminal and a normally closed terminal. We are providing directions for testing a door switch with three terminals. If you are dealing with a door switch that has only two terminals, ignore the part of this test that does not apply to you.

    Locate your dishwasher's door switch. The control panel in the front of the unit may be easily removeable, allowing you access to the switch. In some cases, you will have to first remove the inner panel of the dishwasher door. This is usually accomplished with the removal of a few screws. Be careful to not remove the screws at the bottom of the door that are actually a part of the hinge assembly. Removing these screws will remove the door from the unit, which is unnecessary for this test. With the inner door panel removed, you may or may not discover an even smaller panel covering the back of the control panel at the top of the dishwasher door. This smaller panel is held in place with either a couple of screws, or a couple of clips. The switch you are looking for will be located behind this much smaller panel and it is commonly integrated with the door latch assembly.

    Using caution, remove all wiring harness leads from the switch's terminals. You may need to use needle nose pliers to pull gently not on the wire itself, but on the metallic wire connector. Be aware that some door switches may have a locking clip keeping the harness from coming loose. In this case, there is a protruding lever which must be depressed while the harness is gently pulled away from the terminal.

    Use your ohmmeter to test your switch for continuity. Begin by setting your ohmmeter to measure resistance at a scale of Rx1. Touch the metal tips of the test leads together and zero your ohmmeter by adjusting the thumbwheel in the front of the meter until the needle reads '0' on the scale.

    Touch one meter lead to the COM terminal and the other lead to the N.O. terminal. Do not push in on the actuator. Your meter should give a reading of infinity, meaning the circuit is open, and there is no continuity. Without moving the meter's leads, press down on the actuator until you hear a 'click'. With the 'click' of the actuator, the meter should produce a resistance reading of zero ohms. This means the circuit is closed and continuity is present.

    Keep the meter lead that is touching the COM terminal in place, but move the other meter lead from the N.O. terminal to the N.C. terminal. You should receive a reading of infinity when you push in on the switch's actuator. When the actuator is released, you should receive a resistance reading of zero ohms.

    Now, set your ohmmeter to its highest resistance scale and touch one meter lead to the N.O. terminal and the other meter lead to the N.C. terminal. The resistance reading between these two leads should be infinite.

    Finally, take a resistance reading from both the N.C. terminal and the N.O. terminal to any metal mounting hardware that is a part of the switch assembly. You should receive a normal reading of infinity.

    Any readings that differ from the ones presented here are indicative of a defective door switch that will need to be replaced

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My Maytag quiet series 200 is not cleaning and despite many attempts it is also leaving terrible residue on dishes.


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5Found This HelpfulGeorge Doyle/Stockbyte/Getty images
Dishwater residue is a fairly common occurrence, and several things can cause it. Even the newest dishwashers may leave residue, and it might have nothing to do with the actual dishwasher function itself. However, there are things you can do to prevent, limit or completely remove dishwasher residue during every washing cycle.

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Read more : http://www.ehow.com/info_12285021_troubleshoot-dishwasher-residue.html

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<b> <u><i>Phosphate-Free Dishwasher Detergents May Cause White Film</i></u><br /> <i></i> <br /> <p>Notice a white film or residue on your dishes, glassware, plastic items,<br /> <p>utensils and tub interior.<br /> <p>The problem is likely not the dishwasher's cleaning performance, but may be hard water<br /> <p>or phosphate-free detergents.<br /> <p>As of July 1, 2010 seventeen States* passed laws limiting the amount of phosphorous<br /> <p>(phosphates) in household dishwasher detergents to no more than 0.5 percent.<br /> <p>Previous detergents contained up to 8.7 percent. As a result, major manufacturers have<br /> <p>reformulated their dishwasher cleaning products.<br /> <p> Phosphates are mineral additives in detergents that act as the main cleaning agent helping<br /> <p>remove stains, break down grease and reduce spotting.<br /> <p>During washing, phosphates suspend food particles so they don't stick to dishes. Plus, they<br /> <p>soften water allowing suds to form for cleaning.<br /> <p>Phosphates have been limited in laundry detergents since 1994. The change in dishwasher<br /> <p>detergents is another step in the eco-conscious awareness found in today's products and<br /> <p>the eco-friendly choices consumers are making. Allowing the water in your sink to run untill its hot before starting your dishwasher helps. Also try switching to one of these brands of detergents <br /> <p>1. Finish&reg; Quantum&trade; (Tablets)<br /> <p>2. Finish&reg; all in 1 Powerball&reg; Tabs<br /> <p>3. Cascade&reg; Complete All in 1 ActionPacs&trade;<br /> 4. Cascade&reg; with Dawn&reg; ActionPacs<br /></b>

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1 Answer

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Hi

The white residue is from the new environmentally safe soap. Check your soap and see if it is phosphate free soap and that will be your issue. Also either you have hard water or you're seeing either calcium or lime deposits. You should use the jet dry for every load. There should never be any suds in a dishwasher. Do not use liquid dish detergent for the dishwasher.Try running a load without dishes, using vinegar, or a bottle of Dishwasher Magic. Another possibility could be you're not getting enough water. The level should be close to the heater(check your tech sheet to be sure). The water temp should be at least 140 deg.F (no matter what the box says) Also, use a good brand of detergent (Cascade) and be sure your wetting Agent dispenser is full. (jet dry)You should not have to pre-wash your dishes..just scrape them well.The detergent actually needs some dirty dishes to work properly..fats, protien, etc. to make up 1 more chemical for the detergent.Another important step is to run the hot water faucet before running your d/w to "purge" the cold water out of the line.

Also check this links for some helpful information:-

http://www.appliance-repair-it.com/dishwasher-leaves-white-film-on-dishes.html

http://askville.amazon.com/dishwasher-washes-dishes-clean-white-residue-problem/AnswerViewer.do?requestId=6117170

http://lgknowledgebase.com/kb/index.php?View=entry&EntryID=6192

Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept this particular suggestion.

Thanks for contacting fixya.com

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