Question about Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
This problem points to a couple of places:
The first unfortunately is the motor. Kenmore / Whirlpool top load direct drive washers use a reversing motor.
When in agitate mode, the motor turn one way, When in spin mode it turns the other way for draining and spinning.
I'd check the following first before assuming that it's the motor though.
First, I'd pull the agitators and check for worn or damaged splines inside the agitator or on the agitator shaft.
Following is a description of how to take them out.
If the agitator and shaft are OK, the problem may be in the transmission.
See the following Whirlpool / Kenmore installation and service manual for top load, direct drive washers.
I'd also look at the troubleshooting section of the manual.
Starting at page 10, you'll see a description of how the transmission changes from agitate to spin mode.
The key (and likely problem) is the "agitator spring".
The spring holds the agitate gear down so that the two sets of splines on the agitate gear are connected and the agitate rack can turn the agitators.
See the following Whirlpool parts list for a blow-up of the transmission and how the various gears and springs connect.
See the following for how to remove the transmission and clutch.
Tearing apart the transmission is a bit messy but if the problem is the spring or agitate cams, it's a lot less expensive to fix than a $170 transmission.
Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.
Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight gear oil (I replaced mine with gear oil from a local auto parts store).
Remove the transmission cover (8 bolts) and drain the oil.
Pull off the spin pinion.
Carefully remove the clip that holds the main Spin Gear on and remove it.
Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.
Check the spring, Agitate Cams and the cams in the Neutral Drain Assembly.
Re-assembly is obviously the reverse of taking it apart.
If you're reasonably comfortable with tools you can fix it yourself.
When we had a problem with ours, we ended up spending less than $30 replacing the agitate cams, neutral drain assembly and oil instead of $170 for a transmission. It was worth fixing.
As an aside, tearing the washer apart will give you the opportunity to completely clean it.
Posted on Sep 13, 2010
SOURCE: How do I remove the
Anyone with loud scraping/clanging- we had that problem and saw that the large wheel the belt goes around is only an inch above the metal bottom.When we moved the washer with a 2wheeler it pushed the bottom up into the metal wheel. The racket it made was horrible. It left metal shavings ,too. You'll need to pull the bottom of the washer back out.Pull fromt panal off with putty knife.You'll need to lean or lay washer to one side.Put a pillow or cushion inside between the tub and housing side you'll be leaning towards. What I did was drill two little holes-one near the back center and one near the front center. I took a long piece of heavy string,put one end in one hole and the other end in the other hole-outside to inside.Tie the ends around each end of a 1x2,18inch board .Get the board to the back without damaging stuff inbetween-pulling on your back string for help. Make sure the board is against the bottom, get to where you can now pull your string 'handle' w/both hands,yanking and popping the bottom back out.Our washer now works beautifully and quietly.
Posted on Nov 08, 2011
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