Question about Kenmore Dryers
I would check the thermal overloads. There are two on most Kenmore and they must
be replaced as a set as the replacements are matched for temperature.
These are oval shaped metal items , with two terminals on each. You can
test these with an ohmmeter, they should read zero ohms (towards the right)
across the terminals with the wires unplugged to them.
You can also use continuity and listen for a beep on your meter if it has that function.
These overloads are located on the heating "stack" inside the dryer.
If these are ok then you may have a bad motor switch which also supplies
power through to the heating elements. Some are replaceable, and some are
not, which requires replacement of the motor itself. Let's hope it's just the overloads
(about 8 to 20 dollars). Hope this helps.
Posted on Mar 26, 2011
Well we know the heating element is good and the thermal fuse is good also. The dryer would not run if it was blown. One of the limits might be blown on the side of the heater chamber.
Unplug threplaced heating element, but dryer - themobilian_2042.jpgpting any repairs
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Posted on Mar 26, 2011
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Any time you perform work inside a dryer, lint can get kicked around and settle on components. It is common to have a slight burning smell for a day or so. However, your dryer getting too hot to the touch concerns me. Improper air flow is the number one cause of dryer overheating problems. You may have cleaned the lint out of the interior of your dryer, but did you check the air blower and vent duct lines? In addition, was the heating elements actually bad? Or, did you assume it was bad, because your dryer wasn't drying properly? The following link can explain:
Pay particular attention to the paragraph that discusses proper ventilation. I would recommend you remove the vent hose from the back of the dryer and attempt to dry another load. If the dryer dries more efficiently and the top panel does not get scorching hot to the touch, then you have a vent clog somewhere EXTERNAL to the dryer. If the dryer air flow exiting the dryer is weak and the dryer still gets too hot to the touch, you have a clog INSIDE the dryer.
Follow these steps, first and see what you find. If you verify your ventilation is clear and not kinked or clogged anywhere, then you might assume you have a component malfunction. I would hope to try to save you from purchasing parts you may not need. I hope you find this information helpful. Let me know if you require additional assistance.
PS Make sure you are using semi-rigid (metal type) vent ducting. It is crush resistant, heat resistant, does not kink easily, and resists rodents. It is what most manufacturers recommend. If you haven't replaced the dryer vent in a while, this may be a good time.
Posted on Nov 18, 2008
No the first thing I would check is the vent going outside may be cloged the air going across the heating element should keep it from glowing real bright
Posted on Mar 30, 2009
Sounds like you have something shorted out.
The element issue could be a contact fused shut.
With both problems I would be looking for wires melted together, or a relay/sequencer welded shut melted etc.
You do have a potential fire hazzard here. If after removing the panel you cannot locate the problem, do not run the unit.
Posted on Oct 20, 2009
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