Question about Hunter Ceiling Fan Control Switch

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I want to change my current bathroom switch fromm a 3-wire(black red blue) Hunter 29182 fan control & light dimmer to a 4-wire( yellow red green black) Leviton switch cat. no. 6630. I was hoping for some guidance. thanks very much don

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  • motokov73 Mar 26, 2011

    my current switch ( Hunter 3spd fan control and light dimmer )has a blue red and black wire. Assuming the black is the hot wire, which color is for the light and which one is the fan?

  • motokov73 Mar 28, 2011

    Thankyou! I realized that the fourth wire must be a ground after a while. Thanks for the follow up and sorry for my delay in responding. Cheers!!!

  • motokov73 Mar 29, 2011




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Hello sir there are only 3 wire uses in this kind of circuit/wirings.The 4 wired switch you are going to use probably has a grounding(earth ground) check the green wire if it is connected to the metal portion of the switch if it si then that is the earth ground .you can just use the 3 wires black for the common and yellow and red is for the speed control green connect it to the ground earth...let me know...

Posted on Mar 26, 2011

  • Danilo Baraquiel
    Danilo Baraquiel Mar 29, 2011

    Your welcome sir!

    Please accept my solution!


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Hi,your home repair project involves installing a light fixture and an electrical outlet. You flipped the breakers and disconnected the existing fixture, but now you're uncertain which wire is the "hot" one. What now?

things you'll need:

* Home
* Wiring
* Multimeter


In the United States, household wiring code offers us a clue as to which wire SHOULD correspond to what. Extreme caution should be used, however, when dealing with electricity, even if you feel certain that you know which wire is which. The possibility exists that a misguided handy-man who came before you made the wrong choice connecting the wires. You can never be too careful when your life is at risk.

According to code, the black wire is always the "hot" or "live" wire, meaning, it is connected to a source supplying 110 VAC. If you are connecting this wire to an electrical outlet, this wire should connect to the narrow spade, or brass colored terminal. If you have not switched off the breakers like you're supposed to and you grab the copper conductor of this wire, you will probably feel an unmistakable tingling sensation quickly travel up your arm. If you do feel it, let go of the wire because this sensation is not good for you. If this happens to you often, be sure to have someone around who knows CPR and first aid when you do home repairs.

The green wire is your friend. This is the ground wire. Its sole purpose for existing is to save your life by providing electricity an alternate path to ground. In the case of a short circuit, the current passes through the ground wire and overloads the breakers, causing them to trip. Sometimes this wire will also have a yellow stripe. Be sure to connect the ground wire properly when performing an electrical repair. If the copper conductor of the "hot" wire that we just discussed were to maneuver it's way over to the metal casing of, for example your ceiling fan, and make contact with it without the ground wire attached, you would be in for a nasty surprise when you touched the metal casing of the fan.

The white wire is known as the "neutral" wire. In any circuit, whether AC or DC, there has to be a complete path in order for the electrical current to flow. The white wire alone should not have a charge and should not hurt you if you touch it. If installing an electrical outlet, this wire connects to the wide spade or silver colored terminal.

Sometimes, you will find a red wire living side-by-side with the black, white, and green wires. This wire is known as a "traveler" wire and is used to connect power between 3-way light switches.

Always use caution when working with household wiring. Turn off the breaker that corresponds to the circuit that you are working on. If you are not certain which one is which, switch off the main breaker. Even then, it is a good idea to test the wires with a multimeter to be absolutely certain that the wires are not "hot". It's a good idea to test between the black wire and the white wire and then between the black wire and the green wire. It is important to note that when reading AC voltage with a multimeter, if you connect your probes between two wires that are both "hot" (110VAC) the reading will be 0 volts. (A lesson that I learned the hard way!) Always know what you are doing when dealing with electricity. Small mistakes could prove to be fatal.

Tips & Warnings


Always know what you are doing when dealing with electricity!

Small mistakes could prove to be fatal!

Hope it helped .;..

Posted on Mar 26, 2011

    SANYADE OMOTOLA Mar 26, 2011

    Wiring a ceiling fan is surprisingly simple. Often times it is no more complicated than the wiring of a light fixture. As with any electrical wiring, make sure all wire connections are made securely with the proper size wire nuts, that they are not loose and that no copper strands are showing. Most "house wiring" should be 14 or 12 gauge solid copper wire attached to a 15 or 20 amp 120vAC circuit respectively. Consult a professional if you encounter something varying from this and are not aware of how to safely handle it.

    Most commonly ceiling fans will have 4 wires, or 3 wires plus a ground. Black, white, green, and an additional color (usually red, blue, or black/white striped). The black wire is the hot lead for the fan motor. The red/blue/striped wire is the hot lead for the optional light kit. The white wire is the neutral lead for both the fan motor and light kit. The green wire is ground for the entire assembly.

    In all cases the neutral (white) wire from the fan assembly should be attached to the neutral (usually white) lead from the house wiring. Note that if you encounter a white wire with a marking piece of colored tape attached, this could be used to signifiy it is being used as something other than a neutral.

    The ground (green) wire or wires from the fan assembly should be attached to the ground (usually bare, sometimes green) lead from the house wiring. Some older houses may not have a separate ground lead and use the metal conduit and electrical boxes as ground. In this case you would attach the ground wire from the fan to the electrical box (and/or mounting plate) with the appropriate screw or clip.

    As for the two hot leads . . .

    Example 1: Replacing a light fixture with a fan, and/or installing a fan where there is only one switch

    The black wire from the fan would be connected to the hot lead (usually black, sometimes red) from the house wiring. If the fan has a light the red/blue/striped wire would ALSO be connected to the hot lead from the house. If not then this wire would be capped off, should you chose to connect it (and make easier the option of adding a light later) make sure it is capped off in the fan's switch housing. In this example both the fan and the light would be controlled by the previous light's wall switch.

    NOTE: examine the wires inside the electrical box. Is there an additional wire, presumably a black or a red? There is possibly another hot wire, unswitched, that would allow the fan's light to be controlled by the wall switch and the fan to be controlled by it's pullchain. In most cases you would connect the black wire from the fan to the black wire(s) in the outlet box, and the red/blue/striped to the red wire from the house. HOWEVER this can vary due to your house's wiring, so do not make any attempts unless you are sufficiently comfortable working with electricity.

    Example 2: Installing a fan to a box already wired for one, where there are two switches

    Some newer homes come pre-wired for fan-light combinations, and offer two separate wall switches: one for the light, and one for the fan. In this case you would connect the black wire from the fan to hot (black) lead from the house wiring, and the red/blue/striped wire from the fan to the additional hot (red) lead from the housing wiring. This should allow you to switch the fan and light separately. Should you chose to install a fan without a light, cap off both red (blue etc) wires, or connect them and make sure the light lead is capped off in the fan's switch housing.

    Example 3: Installing a fan where there is NO switch

    Connect the black wire from the fan to the hot (black) lead from the house wiring. If the fan has a light, connect the red/blue/striped wire to the hot (black) lead from the house wiring as well. Both the fan and light are to be controlled from their appropriate pullchains.

    Example 4: Installing a fan with a remote

    Remote controlled ceiling fans only have one hot lead for both the light and fan, as they are controlled internally by the remote receiver. In the cases of Examples 1 and 3 above, the fan would be wired as stated ignoring all references to a red/blue/striped wire. As in example two, only one of the two wall switches would be needed. You would connect the hot lead from the fan to either of the hot leads from the house wiring, and cap off the other.

    In any case where a fan motor is controlled independently from a wall switch (such as Example 2 above, or Example 1 where there is no light kit) the wall switch can be replaced by a fan speed control to allow more diverse operation of the fan from the floor level. If both the fan and light are wired to the same wall switch a speed control should not be used.

    Subsequently, when a fan light is controlled independantly by a wall switch (Example 2 above, or as covered in the additional note to Example 1) and incandescent bulbs are used, the wall switch could be replaced by a dimmer switch to allow more diverse control of the light. DO NOT under ANY cirumstances allow a fan motor to be controlled by a dimmer switch.

    Lastly, optional kits are available to convert a conventional ceiling fan (with light) into a remote control fan. The wiring of said kits can very by case, so consult the included manual. However in most cases, the fan is wired to the kit's remote receiver as would be wired in Example 2 above. The kit's receiver would be connected to the house wiring as in Example 4 above.

    See, nothing's that complicated.



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Hi *****,

I'm an electrician and can help you with this problem. First - shut off the power. Check your wiring as I describe the connections below.

If this is the only switch operating the fan and light, it should be wired as a single pole in the direction sheet. That is as follows:

1) one black wire - it should be connected to the "hot" power source, 2) one green wire - it should be connected to the bare / green ground wires & switchbox (if metal), 3) one red wire - it should be connected to the fan hot wire, 4) one yellow wire - it should be connected to the light hot wire, the remaining wires (yellow with a "3 way label" and red with a "3 way label") should not be connected to anything and capped with a wirenut.

The wiring changes if you are using a second switch to operate either the fan or light (download & view the wiring diagram provided here to follow along with my text). In this case, the hot wire from the fan or light would connect to the black screw of a standard 3 way switch, and the remaining two terminal screws on the switch would connect to the red / red with 3 way label - or yellow / yellow with 3 way label pair. Power and ground wiring on the dimmer black and green are the same as the single pole wiring described above.
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We just bought a house and the living room has a light fixture and there is a dimmer switch that controls it. I removed the light fixture and installed a ceiling fan but the fan barely moves and the light...

You're correct. The dimmer switch was not made for that fan.

The Green is ground > so you're right there too. I assume other plugs nearby are working when dimmer is on. Check that to make sure.

By your description, I assume there is NOT another switch or dimmer that connects to same light. If so, you need a 3-way switch and the following instructions are void.

I suspect when you wired the new fan, that you saw the red and small black wires in the ceiling box. Did you connect the fan and light to those wires? If so, the following information will help you wire the switch.

Your incoming Hot line is probably the larger black wire that connects to Dimmer black >>> this wire will connect to either screw on the new switch

To test Hot wire for sure: Take out dimmer and mark wires for identification. Separate wires. Turn on power and test each wire to bare ground. Tape tester leads to wood sticks so hands are away from power. You'll be fine. Tester lights up on Hot wire.

Next: The smaller black and a red wires are a toss up.

Here's how I would proceed. Connect the black Hot to either screw on switch. Connect red wire to other screw. Put wire nut over small black. Turn on power. Flip switch. Check both lights and fan to see which works with red wire.

Next reverse the toss up wires. Put wire nut over red. Connect small black to switch. Check both lights and fan.

If red and small black control the light & fan, then connect them together on the same screw, and you're done.

If you want to control the fan and light separately, buy double switch, and then Hot connects to dark-colored screw on one side of switch, and red and small black connect to two different screws on opposite side of switch.

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It sounds like the new fixture has got one hot for both the light and fan, they will both run all the time from one switch. This is the blue wire. Hook it to the red or the black, which ever one comes from the switch you want to control it. Hook the white to the white on the new fixture.
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The two wire cable for the switch to the fan will have wht, blk, and ground.

The three wire will have red, blk, wht, and grnd.

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